WM0001HTMA LG Washer - Instructions

Removed the top of the washer by removing the 4 back screws and 2 small brackets. Then I removed the front panel, this was actually the hardest part, 2 screws and 8 tabs that you pop out carefully from the top of the panel. I only disconnected the power button and was able to rest the panel on top of the washer. The rest of the washer came apart quickly just moving down the front of the washer and removing the door, latch, tub gasket, drain cover. Removing the pump was just a mater of disconnecting the drain hoses, and one clip under the drain assembly. 3 screws attach the drain to assembly to the pump and only 2 wires that are clearly marked. Reassembly is just going back through in reverse order of disassenbly. The best thing about this is that it all comes apart with a standard phillips screwdriver.

I first tested the motor per the service manual. I checked the resistance between the terminals of the 3 pin connector. It's supposed to be 5-15 ohms. The motor checked out so I replaced the main electrical board. It turns out that wasn't the problem. After a brief web search I found out that the hall sensor (which is attached to the motor stator) was the likely cause of the failure. I replaced that and everything works great now. And now I have a spare main board in case that ever fails. I also want to mention that I took the time to remove the dispenser box (where the water comes in and is directed to the different cleaning products) and cleaned it with a very strong bleach solution. It got rid of the mildew and funky smell. It seems that the fabric softener caused a lot of mildew to form inside the dispenser directly above the fabric softener tray. The bleach took care of that. This is probably something that should be done routinely to keep the mildew from forming.

Pull washer away from wall. Unplug cord and remove drain hose from receptacle. Remove 4 screws holding panel to rear of washer. Squeeze and slide back hose clamps on each end of drain hose and loosen center clamp with screwdriver. Remove old hose. Reinstall new hose in reverse order using existing clamps. Re-install back panel.

Thank you for the very helpful YouTube video. After watching the video, I was able to diagnose the problem, buy the part from your website, and complete the repair. This is my personal machine - I am not a professional repairman.

replaced the cold water valve inlet

Watched a you tube video and followed the instructions. Even had my 11 and 13 yo old help and do most of the work. Very easy to fix both hot and cold inlet at the same time. Didn't know which one was causing the problem so I decided to replace both.

I received the locking device. I received an email from parts select with a repair video link. I watch the video and repeated the steps. Very easy and educational. Thank you for simplifying something I have limited experience doing.

Removed back of washer with screw driver, Removed outer motor cover with a 17 mm socket (1 bolt), Removed motor stater using 10 mm socket (8 bolts). Left motor plugged in and and tipped to the side exposing the sensor. Unplug and snap off sensor. Reassembled in opposite order. Machine works great. Very easy fix, and perfect fit on part.

There are two pumps in this system. I turned the washer on its side and took off bottom plate. There are several screws holding this on. I then took the entire pump assembly off. There are 3 screws holding each pump on the brown plastic body. Each pump has a positive and negative lead. I switched out the pump and reassembled. The hardest part is getting the 3 "shock absorbers in place with the rubber sleeves. I think the book suggest getting to the pump from the front side but I went through the bottom. Worked good. I did wonder however if the other pump was working. Do you need two pump working to get flow? By replacing one pump I went from no flow to good flow. Cost me $75.00

I did repaired while looking at video at your site .thanks to your team ..

I first thought there was a mechanical problem but after checking everything mechanical I discounted that idea ... I researched and found out from others with a similar problem that the Le code display was probably a sensor problem ... I ordered a replacement sensor ... With the new sensor available, I removed the access panel to the back of the machine (phillips head screw driver - 4 screws) ... Remove the exposed motor half (1 bolt - 17mm scocket) ... Loosen the motor stator that has the wired coils (10mm socket - 6 bolts) ... Hold motor unit to the side without disconnecting the wiring harness ... Disconnect the sensor wire connector and remove the old sensor ... Clip the new sensor in place (same position as the old one) and re-connect ... Reverse the assembly procedures ... This fixed the problem and the washing machine works like a new one ... The wife is HAPPY!

Wife wanted to spend $800 on a new washer." You don't know what your doing" she said. Parts Select not only showed me how to take it apart, but easy instructions to put back together and a "how bout them apples" to the wife!!!

I shut the water off, unplugged the machine, and had to scoop the water out of the drum. When I opened the drain filter, about another half gallon of water came out. There are two screws that hold on each clip that secures the top. They are hard to see if you have a cramped laundry room and can't see behind the machine. The top slides back about 1-2 inches and lifts up, it can be tough to get it started. The rest of the machine came apart easily, just go slow and look for more screws if it does not come apart. I pried on the band that secures door near the spring to keep from distorting it. The website video was pretty good. The pump assembly has to come out the machine to replace it, the use a 10MM socket. Be careful not to over tighten when you reinstall. They are threading back into plastic. A long set of needle nose pliers works well for the clamps on the 3 hoses. Be sure to get all wiring back into it holders or vibration could cause grounding or shorting issues. I took some time to clear the small drain that is in the door seal. It was clogged with debris. The band was the most difficult thing to put back on. Start at the top. I used a flat screwdriver to help, but be careful not to poke a hole in the seal.

I watched the video on repairing an LG front load washer. Even though mine is a washer/dryer all-in-one unit to repair was pretty much the same. the only real change with my unit is there are two screws in the area of the bottom filter/drain hose that needs to be removed to be able to take the bottom panel off. This will reveal two more screws to take the front door panel off. To avoid a wet mess, take a wet/dry vac and suck as much water out of the drain hose as you can and have to available to catch any left over water that spills when the hoses are removed. Another thing that can be very useful is to use a piece of cardboard. When you remove the various screws, push them into the cardboard and label each set for reassembly.

I first checked to make sure that there was not a clogged pipe. After making sure that was not the issue, I replaced the drain pump. It was VERY easy following this youtube video, step by step. The hardest part was the getting the ring (with a spring on it) back around the part by the door. I had someone help me stretch it, and hold it so that I could feed it back on. A tool to stretch the spring would have been helpful.