WLW3300BCL Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

Used the spatula to release the front panel (push flat spatula under top about 2 inches from either side to release the two sprng clips holding the front panel on) to expose the tub and motor assembly. Inspected the belt and it seemed worn and a lot of rubber particles were in base of machine. Ordered the belt from partselect - received it two days later. Loosened 4 motor mount nuts. Removed old belt and replaced. Tightened belt and tightened nuts on motor. Only tricky part is you will need extensions for socket drive because belt is in the way for two of the motor mount nuts. I used a 1/4" small socket wrench, with an extension. No expertise needed on this one.

My washer was making noise but not agitating or spinning on any of the cycles that I turned the dial to. Didn't know if it was the transmission or something simple. I did some research and discovered it may be the belt, even though the belt looked new, I changed it anyway by just removing the front of the washer and cutting the belt off and putting the new belt on by just turning the pulleys until it fed on. No need to tip it over to do the repair...and it WORKED!! Then I did the happy dance around the house...see woman can repair 2!

First, you will need to remove the agitator, if it hasn't fallen off by itself. Than, you will need a pulley to remove the coupling from the spinning pole . I used one of those pulleys with three arms to remove it , Second, I lubricated the inside of the new coupling with a little oil, and sided it down on the spinning pole. It was a little hard to installed but, I used a hammer and tapped it in. Third, I also put some lubricant on the new coupling to help the agitator slide down a little easier on the new coupling.

P.S. Check inside agitator for old rubber of the old coupling and remove it. (only if it has fallen off the old coupling.)

## WHAT I WISH I'D KNOWN BEFORE I STARTED ##
1. Remove the four hoses first.
2. remove the three screws holding the pump to the structure above BEFORE loosening the flex clamp.
3. with the pump free of the hoses and rest of the washer, then remove the flex coupling clamp from the pump end only; do not remove the flex coupling from the motor.
4. remove the old pump.
5. attach the new pump to the top of the flex coupling BEFORE attaching the pump to the upper part of the washer. This is the most difficult step, to get the flex coupling on the pump in a secure fashion using the clamp. It's much easier to do if the pump is not yet connected to the rest of the washer.
6. attach the pump to the washer with the three mounting screws.
7. re-attach the hoses.
8. run the washer and check for leaks.

I made the mistake of taking the flex coupling off the motor then tried to put the flex coupling on the motor and the pump when the pump was already attached to the washer. Major grief :>(

Good luck, it's well worth the effort.

put washer on its side,removed 1cross section,loosened the nut that held on the pulley.
loosened the motor and removed drive belt,removed drive pulley,removed old seal,poured in 90 weight gear oil,installed new seal and done everything else in reverse order.
stood washer upright connected water hoeses,waste water discharge hose,set washer to spinanr turned it on to make sure no more leaks.
everything is working well

First cut off both incoming water supplys. Next remove the water hoses to the inlet. Then remove some of the screws that are holding the back panel on that will give you access to the inlet plate remove those screws and that are holding the inlet in. when you remove the inlet mark the wires take of the water hose and remove inlet now do the opposite to assemble There was no Rocket Scientist needed and the funny part $12. cheaper than literally going around the corner to the appliance store Thank You and my wife thanks You

I loosened the four nuts holding the motor in place, slid the motor toward the tub to slacken the belt enoug to remove it, then replaced old belt with new belt, pulled motor back in place until belt was tight, then tightened the four nuts holding th emotor in place.

In my case the rubber bonded to the agitator coupling had stuck inside the agitator cover (plastic part that comes in contact with clothes). The metal part with the splines could not be removed by gripping with pliers. A pulling tool needed to be used to remove the tool. I used a valve spring compressor tool for overhead cam engines, but any pulling type tool with a center bolt and jaws that will fit between the rubber seal and the bottom of the agitator coupling would work. After removing metal part of coupling from agitator shaft and cleaning up the rusted teeth on the agitator shaft that caused the difficult removal, I pried out the rubber part of the agitator coupling from the plastic agitator cover by inserting a screw driver from the top hole in the agitator cover and getting it under the rubber to separate the toothed parts of the rubber from the matching grooves and then pushed it out the bottom of the agitator coupling. Then came the difficult part of the project - inserting the new coupling. I found the instructions that came with the new part very unrealistic and was not able to simply wet the rubber on the new coupling after installing it on top of agitator shaft and then push it into the plastic agitator cover - it simply would not go down more than 1/8" in the cover. If you attempt to do this job using the method described in the instructions you will likely end up with a damaged agitator, or cover as you will likely resort to hammering the cover on which is not recommended because of shock to agitator teeth. In my solution this is where a long bolt, 2 large diameter washers that the bolt fit through, several nuts larger than the bolt diameter and finally a nut that fit the long bolt came into play. Using these parts and a socket set with several long socket extensions I used the bolt, washers and nuts to draw the agitator coupling into position in the plastic coupling. This worked extremely easily once all the parts were in the right place and put no stress on any of the parts being assembled. To do this, first I installed the new agitator coupling on the agitator shaft - making sure it would remove fairly easily before continuing, then I pushed the agitator cover over the agitator coupling as far as I could to get it connected well enough to the agitator coupling so that when I pulled the agitator cover back off the agitator shaft the coupling would come with it (still in place with the rubber teeth from the coupling started in the corresponding grooves on the inside of the cover). With the agitator cover removed I placed a washer that was wider than the top of the agitator cover onto the long bolt (the bolt must be about 8 inches long) and then passed the bolt through the hole in the top of the agitator cover, through the splined hole in the agitator coupling (the bolt must be small enough in diameter to fit through the agitator couping hole). With the bolt and washer pushed all the way down on top of the agitator cover I turned the cover over and placed it upside down on the floor so that the cover pushed down on the washer and bolt and held them in place. I then used an extracting tool (something with little claws that protrude or retract) to lower first another washer large enough in diameter to cover the diameter of the agitator coupling bottom and then several nuts larger than the bolt diameter onto the exposed end of the bolt that comes out on the other side of the agitator coupling inside the long narrow tube of the agitator cover. Once I had enough nuts in place to leave only enough threads on the bolt for the washer and nut that fit that bolt, I set the nut on the end of the bolt and used the correct sized socket with several long socket extensions attached to it to hand tighten the nut onto the end of the bolt. Then securing the head of the bolt with a wrench to keep the bolt from turning, I placed a socket wrench on the extensions and socket that covered the nut and then tightened th

took motor lose and belt lose first, then took pulley off from the tub shaft, then made a big mistake, I took and pulled the lower shaft seal. lucky I had a pan to catch the oil about half a gallon. After that I could not find away to put oil in the gear box, so I took the drum out and that didn't work but it was a good thing I did because the inside drum was rusting so I spend money on the seal for nothing. Had to buy a new washer. If I ever did it again I would turn the whole washer up side down so the oil could not run out and I would put the oil in the hole where the seal was. lot of work for nothing.

loosen the clamp holding the flex coupling then remove the 3 screws holding pump in place remove old pump and coupling best to have washer laying on it's face for easy access to screws.
install coupling on new pump and install togeather then attach flex coupling to drive motor...

I pulled out machine turned off the water ,and unpluged the machine. Took off the hot and cold water hoses with help of vise grips. Next the two nuts which hold's the part to the machine(plate) and the nut that holds the part to the plate pulled out the part marked the four wires which go onto the part undid clamp on hose and pulled off hose. put the hose on new part , re-attached the wires , put part on plate and attached plate and part to machine hooked up hoses turned on water and plugged in machine . The washer does not leak and works great. I'm a 59 year old woman.

Tipped washer over on to the front side. Removed back panel. Removed the flex coupling to the water pump. Removed the old belt. Installed the new belt and reversed the process to put components back together.

It was very easy, just one screw to get the belt on, then it was just putting in place and putting it back together took the longest.

Replacing the inlet valve could not have been any easier. First, I removed the back plate of the washer using a socket wrench on the 2 screws. After removing the wiring attached to the valve, I then detached the valve from the plate with the same socket wrench.

I then loosened the clasp on the rubber hose and disconnected it from the valve.

I replaced the new valve using exactly the same procedure, only in reverse. First attached the hose, the attached the valve to the back plate. Then replaced the back plate on the washing machine and reattached the hoses.

Removed the front panel with a stiff putty knife, removed the worn belt. Placed the new belt on the front pully and than the rear pully, turning clockwise. After checking the spin cycle I put the front panel back on and I was done.