WGD95HEXR1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

The repair was easy as 1-2-3 removed the cover panel to find thermal fuse and igniter kit, one screw for each part unpluged wires removed bad parts and installed the new parts, pluged in wires placed panel back and pushed on button what you know I got HEAT it was easy as 1-2-3- great job.

Well first let me tell you I am 64 yrs old and female. Thank you so much for the video. That was the life saver. I followed instructions from the video and yes it was as easy as the gentleman said. The hardest part was moving the dryer out. I also ordered a thermostat and cut off thermostat. The dryer works just perfectly now. Thanks again for making it so simple for a lady like me.

Queried the Internet for my model number of dryer. Found Part Select web site. Went to the site and entered my model number again. Found a list of common problems and my particular dryer problem was listed. Only two possibilities - thermal fuse or timer. Studied the diagnostic criteria for thermal fuse and that seemed to fit my situation. Watched the video of how to replace the thermal fuse. After watching the video, I was convinced I could fix the dryer. Ordered the thermal fuse and it arrived in about 2 days. Followed the instructions previously viewed on the video and replaced the thermal fuse. Success!! Mission accomplished!! I felt great that I had done this by myself with help from Part Select. A service call from a repair establishment would have cost about $130.00. I fixed my dryer for about $9.00 plus shipping cost of about $7.00. And I didn't have to wait for two weeks for a repairman to show up and occupy my whole day. I forwarded the Part Select link to all of my friends and relatives and told them to use Part Select for their repair needs. Awesome web page and service! Use them!

I first pulled the drum and turned on the dryer. The igniter never turned on. So I unplugged the dryer from the outlet and measured the resistance of the igniter, which was ok. I pulled the back panel and checked the thermal fuse, which was open. I also pulled the lint system plenum off of the unit, which was clogged with lint. This probably caused the thermal fuse to overheat. I cleaned out the lint collection system, replaced the thermal fuse and re-installed the drum. dryer is now working fine.

As per video instruction that came with the email order conf

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

I read some of the repairs of other people and this best described my situation. I ordered the Radiant Flame Sensor and followed the step by step instructions in the video for the repair, which by the way was excellent. It couldn't have been easier. My most difficult part of the repair was moving my dryer out of the laundry closet.

replaoed igniter ,easy to do after watching video

First I changed the thermal fuse. Still did not heat up. Then changed the heater element. That fixed the problem.

The thermal cutoff kit was bad. I followed the instructions in the video on the website to repair the dryer. According to some extra research that I did, the heating element is protected by the thermal cut off kit so there is a greater chance that the thermal kit will need to be replaced before the element will. There is a chance that the element could go bad, but more than likely it ise thermal cutoff kit.

repair was easy,just took back cover off, changed out thermal fuse and but cover back on. Very cool that they even provide a video to show you how,,i'm sure i saved at least 100 dollars

Repair was fairly easy, lots of screws to remove but the instructions in the online repair manual were very clear. Lots of stuff to remove (top, front, drum, etc.) but not too challenging. Only tough thing was disconnecting one of the connectors on the electronics board, had to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the part to get them separated. Once I had it all apart it was very easy to replace the wheels and the belt. Putting it back together was easier than taking it apart.

Remove lower bottom cover (two screws on bottom) with screw driver. Remove old radiant flame sensor from left side of tube with ignior by using socket wretch. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Put new part in: put wires back on, insert part's lower tab into the tube ( there is a small slot) use socket wrench to tighten screw at top. Put bottom front panel back on and screw back in.

This was by far so easy the instruction Partselect gave me where right on step by step. a repair man was going to charge 75$ just to come out 9$ from partselect. Thank you very much Mike chaplin