WGD9400SZ3 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I ended up taking the entire dryer apart when I didn't need to, and it turns out it wasn't the Igniter Kit in the first place but the thermal fuse in the back. Was pretty simple to repair in any case however.

Removed two small screws on door edge, pop out broken part, insert new part, replace screws. Took 2 minutes 18 seconds. Nice to have various door catches in the Kit. This was a repair on a 1979 Whirlpool Dryer. Great price & service!!

The videos really make it easy. I put my laptop on the washer next to my dryer and proceeded step by step. I also found the video that mentioned about the screws that may come loose on the baffles. I found several loose screws on the baffles which I tightened and I also found the Drum hole plug loose, so I also tightened the plug. Reassembled the unit and has been working like new since.

Simply slid new idler wheel on then popped thr tri ring on. The belt replacment was the hardest thing which was also easy. I think pulling the dryer away from the wall was the most difficult thing.

The part came in very quickly. If you know how to remove the front panel, it is very easy to repair. The hard part is to diagnose the problem. The first thing to check is the igniter. If it comes on then you look for faulty limit switches. If you have lots of training in electronics and appliance repair this is very easy, if you do not I would not try this. I have 40 years in the repair business, It still took me 1hr. to find the problem. the switch was intermitted, one time the dryer would work the next time it would not. Good luck and happy repairs.

Upon receipt of the new vent kit, I removed the dryer from its location and took it in to the garage. This facilitated a roomier work space. The directions were easy to follow and the work to be performed was very easy in this setting.

This appliance is 14 years old. I debated whether or not if worth to be repaired. I decided to repair it since a new one of comparable model is about $600. Firts, Disconnect the appliance. Remove the control panel side covers and unscrew the screws in the bottom, (one on each side) Flip the control panel up. Now you have access to the 3 screws that hold the drier top on place. Remove the 3 screws and slide the panel towards you and lift standing on the front of the appliance. Set the top aside. The fron bottom panel is attached with two clips on top and hinges on two bottom clips. With a potty knife or flat screw press in each top clips and pulls the cover towards you and lift that will removed the cover. Next, un screw the two screws in the bottom of the top front panel. Disconect the wires of the close door switch. I usially take a picture of the connections before discconnecting anything so I can use as reference when putting it all together again. Remove the two top screws. Remove the spring of the door (two, one on each side), remove the lint trap. Be careful if you open the door after you remove the springs and make sure whne you close the door is snaped in the close position. Remove the front top panel. Next, remove the blower cover (two screws on the front of it, Remove the blower ring ( two screws) Remove the belt by pushing down the spring loaded pulley and sliding the belp to the side. Grabing the tub by the belt carfully lift it and slide it out from the drier enclosure. Using a 1/2 in socket wrench place it in the center of the blower and hold the motor shaft at the other end by the pulley using adjustable wrench. Unscrew and remove the blower. Remove the back cover of the blower (4 screws) Discconnect the motor harness and unclip the two clips holding the motor to the mount bracket. Remove the motor and replace with the new one. Follow these instructions in revers order. It was very easy and my drier is working great now. I inspected the belt and pulleys and lubricared all moving components and of course cleaned and vacum all debry and lint. I hope these instructions help you and good luck :)

Our make/model was not on the online instruction, but it was similar. Ours had a glass (plastic)front window in the door. To remove the top catch you had to take out the top four screws that hold the door together (philips head screws) allowing you to pull back the gray plastic strip to access the top latch, then replace it like in the online directions using a needle nose pliers. The bottom catch, once the two remaining the screws were out gives you access to the bottom catch. Remove it with the pliers and snap the new ones into place. You can completely take out the window when you replace the bottom latch if you want.

Just pulled the old parts out on door latch and put the new ones in. Thanks Parts Select for your prompt response and easy process for order and shipment.

Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"

Followed the easy instructions on the video, and it worked. Sure beats calling a technician.

Just put the new lint filter in.

replaced with new one which had been improved upon by a brace down the middle of the screen.

Dryer was making intermittent squealing noises sometimes it was amazingly loud, sometimes not so bad. Still, I figured this couldn't be good so I wanted to find a fix. Read the stories here and everything pointed to the 'idler pulley', so I figured I'd give it a try. For me, access was the hardest part -- my laundry room is small and I can't easily get the dryer out or move it around. Not a problem with the part, just my own setup. Important to note that this repair is best done through the BACK of the unit, not the front. Once I got access to the back (removing AC and Water used for the 'steam dry feature') I also had to disconnect several of the electrical connectors to get the unit fully apart. Good news -- the actual replacement of the pulley took about 1 minute! It was just all of the moving and disassembly that took so long. The original idler pulley had worked its way off of the shaft and was out of place and causing the squealing. All is well now, and I saved a bunch by doing it myself. No more squealing!

Watched a brief video on YouTube and followed step by step. Real easy.