WGD9400SU1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

First disconnect power to the machine. Remove lower access door locate the igniter connector and disconnect it. Now, remove the screw holding the igniter to the mounting bracket with a 5/16" box wrench, carefully remove the igniter. Replace the old mounting bracket but first start the igniter mounting screw in the new bracket, threading it in all the way and then removing it to make installation easier. Install the new bracket and then the igniter, Be very careful, the igniter is fragile. Holding the igniter securely, install the mounting screw. Reconnect the wire connector replace lower door and plug the machine in. Voila! heat!!

had gas up to the valves. one half of the double coil was open. installed new coils and the problem was solved.

The hardest part is figuring out how to get the unit open. You have to take out the brackets that appear to hold on the timer section and you have to remove the screws under the lint filter. Once you have the top off then you remove the screws that hold the front panel on from the inside. I decided not to remove the drum it seemed like a lot of hassle, instead I went down and got a right angle screwdriver, the terminal valves are in the front of the unit and you only have to remove 2 screws to remove the retainer which holds them both in place. The drum is in the way so you can't use a regular screwdriver and the right angle is a bit slow going but I think it is actually faster than removing and replacing the drum for a novice like myself. Replacing the coils took about 2 minutes and then reassembly another half hour. But the Dryer works great again and for $70 it was well worth it.

just the way the video showd me

Replaced the flame sensor since it was believed to be the problem contributing to the lack of flame in this gas dryer. However, this part did not correct the problem.

removed frt cover & drum, replaced solenoids, cleaned the unit interior

I ordered the part with the manf. # BUT upon installation I found that the new part was slightly different than the old part therefore not allowing me to screw the new part to the inside of the dryer - I was able to find longer screws that would work but took me an hour to figure out what the issue was and then resolve the matter

My suggestion is to read all of the items that may result in no heat, or insufficient heat, you will find your problem in one of the reply's and the right part to replace. The repair was made much easier, as I installed a Maintenance kit at the same time. Drum rollers, drive belts and tensioner. With the drum out, the coil retaining clip was a LOT easier to re-instal. If the drum isn't out, you can lift the drum up a little and squeeze a stubby screw driver in to loosen the retaining screws. You have to use the proper size screwdriver so you don't strip the screws, and maybe a pair of gas pliers around the handle of the screwdriver to give it a little torque to help loosen the screws, while keeping downward pressure on the screwdriver.

I just knew it had to be the heat sensor unable to activate the actual ignition. I following the directions and video for the installation of the heat sensor #PS344761. It went very smoothly. Upon completion of the installation, the click, then the flame roared to life and I felt like a real do-it-selfer!! This was short lived. The wetness of the clothes had no effect. Something I did not do and I certainly know better was to check and see what was taking place before I replaced the "damaged" sensor. No, I was just so sure there was no need of that. You say, put the old back in and watch what happens....I recycled the old one immediately. Sigh! We have had two weeks of rain and I'm really tired of damp clothes everywhere. I will read other alternatives and report back. DClark, TX

Dryer was making intermittent squealing noises sometimes it was amazingly loud, sometimes not so bad. Still, I figured this couldn't be good so I wanted to find a fix. Read the stories here and everything pointed to the 'idler pulley', so I figured I'd give it a try. For me, access was the hardest part -- my laundry room is small and I can't easily get the dryer out or move it around. Not a problem with the part, just my own setup. Important to note that this repair is best done through the BACK of the unit, not the front. Once I got access to the back (removing AC and Water used for the 'steam dry feature') I also had to disconnect several of the electrical connectors to get the unit fully apart. Good news -- the actual replacement of the pulley took about 1 minute! It was just all of the moving and disassembly that took so long. The original idler pulley had worked its way off of the shaft and was out of place and causing the squealing. All is well now, and I saved a bunch by doing it myself. No more squealing!

two screws on lint screen push up top two screws on front cover. two screws on coils lift coils off put back together. less than 10 minutes. all done

Watched a brief video on YouTube and followed step by step. Real easy.

First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.

Undo 2 screws take units out, clean a little, install new parts and screw down, done, great site !!!!!

Pried the top up, disconnected the door switch, removed two top screws holding the front panel, disconnected the spring and removed the front panel. Removed the screws and retainer holding the coils, replaced both coils and reversed the process. This was the third component I replaced to solve the problem....a cheap multi-meter and some testing would have solved the problem sooner. We now have the whole heat cycle.