WFW9700VA00 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

The first step is to remove the retainer ring that holds the outside of the bellow in place.
To do this, Open the washer door as far as you can to get it out of the way. look underneath of the front of the bellow on the outside of the washer where it meets the door. Put your head almost on the floor and look up.
You will find a spring streached about 3" connected to a small diameter wire (1mm.) that runs all the way around the outside portion of the bellow.
Use a small screwdriver or other to pull and pry the spring away from the rubber bellow. Be careful not to damage the spring or ring. Once you have grip on it, pull it carefully toward you then up and off of the bellow.

The front portion of the bellow is now free and can be peeled off. Start at any point and pull the rubber bellow in toward the opening of the washer, it comes off easily.
When you get to the detergent outlet on the upper left side, grab the plastic tube and carefully pull the bellow from around it. There is no adhesive or clamp holding this in place, just friction. Remove the rest of the front portion of the bellow.
Push as much of the bellow into the washer as possible to get it out of the way.

Once this is off comes the slightly tricky part. Look up at the top right portion of the bellow that is still attached. You may need to feel with your hand but you should be able to see it. You are looking for the screw/nut end of a giant hose clamp. This hose clamp goes around the entire bellow and the secures it to the portion that holds the basket.
This is where the stubby screw driver comes in handy. There is not nearly enough room for a standard one and a nut driver or wratchet are too big. The nut will be pointing down and will need to be replaced the same way.
Loosen the hose clamp almost all of the way, not necessary to have the hose clamp come completely apart.
You can now remove the entire hose clamp from around the bellow by pulling it forward.
You will need to remove the hose clamp from the washer. To do this, squeeze it in from the sides about 6", don't kink it. Push it down toward the floor between the basket and the metal front panel. You will now be able to remove it from the top of the opening and be able to pull the bottom portion out.
Pull the old bellow completely out, very easy to do.

Time to install the new bellow. Figure out which side goes in and which faces out. The big hint is that the water inlet is on the upper left side.
You will notice at the top of the bellow on the portion that goes inside of the washer, you will find a small triangular shaped tab about 1/4" high. This is your centering mark. This will be at the very top. If you keep this at the top, everything will line up perfectly.

Slip the bellow over the edge of the portion that holds the basket where you removed the old one. I started at the top and worked left so I could install the detergent inlet tube. Pull this through the bellow carefully. It doesn't take a lot of force.
As you are pressing the bellow on this lip, you will notice that there is a 1/2" high back stop all of the way around. This is great because as you press it on, there is a positive stop and you can't go further than necessary. Continue to press it in all of the way around.

Now it is time to install the Hose clamp. Un bend anything that might have bent on the clamp. With the nut at the top or top right with the nut facing down to the floor while holding it vertically, squish it slightly inward, put the bottom portion in first then the top portion. Orient is as it was when you took it off. Slide it around the bellow. You will feel a positive stop.
Grab the stubby screwdriver and tighten down the hose clamp. I did about a medium force when tightening. It doesn't take a lot of force.

Now it is time to pull the remaining part of the bellow out of the basket and fit it into place. Press it around the outside portion of the opening so it hooks over the lip. This w

Removed the front panel unplugged
The washer drained water out, lift the washer up to un screw the drain pump. Then unhooked the hoses from pump put the other pump in.

I first removed the back panel held on by about 10 screws. I removed the drive belt from the pulley, then removed the lock nut securing the pulley to the drum & removed the pulley. Attached the new pulley to the drum, tightened on the lock nut, attached the new belt & ran a spin cycle. When that went OK I replaced the back panel & the washer was back in service.

Pump started making noises like ball bearings grinding. took the lower front cover off pulled the strainer out of the pump housing and found $2.55 in nickles dimes and quarters. Some 223 bullets and about 20 bobby pins. Together they had destroyed the impeller, so ordering a new one and installing it did the trick. Easy installation about 15mins.

This model is a front-loading washer. The spring loaded retainer for the front of the boot must be removed, then the boot can moved to the side exposing the module. Remove the two screws holding the model, pull the model out, remove the three electrical plugs, then reverse this procedure to install new module.

This do it yourself repair saved me the cost of a repair man's service call plus time to put it in. 1. First of all, make sure the unit is unplugged. On this type of front loading washer you will need to remove the bottom panel, which is secured by 3 nut screws. 2. Once the panel is removed you will need to use pliers to unscrew the drain plug and allow for excess water to drain out before removing the drain pump (get a pan or something that will fit underneath the drain). This is the area in which all the loose stuff, like coins and everything else falling out of pockets, gets trapped. The trap works well and needs to be checked periodically or if left unchecked it will probably be the cause of burning up the drain pump. 3. Once the water is drained you will need to use pliers to unsecure the two hoses attached to the drain pump. The pliers will pinch the wire clamps open and you can remove the hose easily. 4. The dryer is stacked on top of my washer and in order to get to the two screws holding the drain pump I needed to put a block of wood under the washer to give myself room to get a wrench to the screws. Once the dryer and washer were unloaded and nothing on top I was able to lift the washer and slide a block of wood underneath. 5. The pump has a power supply on the right hand side (a small white box with a wire attached) Remove the wire by gently pulling on the end of it. It is a plug type end. 6. Using a wrench (or socket driver) I took out the two screws (about an 1.5"). The drain pump slides to the right and out it comes. It is also secured by two rubber seals which are easy to remove as well as to install. 7. Now all you do is work backwards, installing the new drain pump by sliding the seals in place and wrenching the screws back in to hold the drain pump, followed by putting the two hoses back on with the pliers and placing the wire back into the power supply box on the drain. I would recommend anyone being able to do this on their own or at least with another person to help with a bit of lifting. The only way I knew to replace this part was because it was making all the noise, so it doesn't take much rocket science :)

Removed the top (3-4 screws at back). Flowmeter has 2 hoses with hose clamps. Removed with plyers. Simple electrical connector removed.

Reversed procedure. Running perfect now.

How did I know it was the flow-meter? Read the service manual as possible causes to narrow it down. Disassembled old flowmeter and cleaned. That fixed for awhile. Problem came back, could 'tap' on flowmeter to temporarily fix. This convinced me that was indeed the problem.

The flowmeter is just a simple vane that moves as water flows across it, and sends pulses each time it rotates. If it 'sticks' then the computer doesn't think any water is coming in - hence the error. Tapping on it would 'unstick' long enough to confirm problem.

Unscrewed door screws from washer lifted the door up a little removed door. Unscrewed screws from the glass side and f door remove hinge replaced with new hinge screwed glass door back together. Attached door back to washer screwed screws back in done

Took drain pump out and determined coins and practice ammunition are not good for drain pump rhesevior. Drain pump burnt up and froze. Part was easy to slide out and slide back in hooking up two hoses to it. Five minute fix!! Now we know where those rouge items went. Lol

Opened the front panel with 3 crews T-25 or socket wrench. Panel comes off right away.

Look for the leak. Determined it was the hose. Use power pliers to remove the clamp.

The small clamp was easy. The big one I had to use my yoga to get to it. It probably would had been easy from the back panel but moving the machine requires brute force.

Once the hose was out I found some bra under wires which is what probably punctured the hose.

Removed the front filter and found a bunch of nails.

Assembly was much easier and placed clamps so that if needed it would be a lot easier to remove and replace.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Removed bellow clamp (used screwdriver to pry clamp open). Removed Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp with socket set. Removed Bellow. I had purchased new clamps as I didn't know condition of the old clamps. The Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp was in good condition, appeared to have an anodized finish - was not corroded and the tightening screw pointed forward where as the new clamp appeared to be galvanized and the tightening screw paralled the clamp. I assumed the new orientation of the tightening screw was to make it easier to tighten with a screwdriver, but space is limited and I had good success removing the old clamp with a socket set so I elected to reuse the old clamp. Plus, I liked the finish of the old clamp better - it had zero corrosion on it after several years, almost a decade, of use.
Reinstalling the bellow was the hardest part of the repair - it is just tedious and patience is required - I took a couple of breaks seating the Bellow to the outer tub. There was a tab on the Bellow which went to the top to insure the Bellow was properly aligned. After I seated the bead of the Bellow all the way around, I slipped the Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp over the Bellow and tightened it down - continually checking the seating of the Bellow. I then put the Bellow over the water inlet tube and seated the outer portion of the Bellow. I needed additional hands to help hold the outer clamp in place - my wife helped - and I used pliers and plastic pry wedges from a tire patch repair kit to pull it open and slip it over the Bellow - I didn't want to use screwdrives as I was afraid I would damage the Bellow.

Like most folks, my daughter has tossed the shipping bolts after her puechase, I moved her the first time w/o any thought to it but commercial movers won't do that, they will chg. you to have it done and it's not cheap, akin to an appliance repair. This kit contains all four bolts/spacers, (2) upper and (2) lower. Hard to tell from the decription but a sweet gal on the help desk assured me of it. Got it fast and got them installed in minutes, easy to do and wrote a big note on the back of the washer to save them!! No idea why your owners book says "do not reuse".

1st I removed the front retaining ring. You do need to get down near the ground to see the retaining ring. I used two pairs of needle nosed pliers to pull the ring apart (which has a spring in the middle) and then removed the ring.

Then I pushed the bellows into the washing machine drum, pulled the water inlet valve from the bellows, and used a short flat blade screwdriver to remove the retaining band (upper right of the bellows) After doing this it was a simple matter to remove the whole unit.

I did find it was easier to remove the washing machine door.

The installation was a simple matter of reversing the above. I had no problems with this repair. I would STRONGLY suggest, unless you are one of those gifted 3 handed people, getting an assistant to push the outer retaining ring into place as you separate the spring.

Simple, easy repair.

My son did the repair.So I just know he got it working.Also the part I order came the next day after I called.And if I ever need another part for any of my other appliance I will be sure to call you.And I have told other people I know about you Thanks alot.Deborah Gaffney