This is a 120 volt, 60 hertz drain pump assembly for a washing machine. It is a genuine OEM part. This pump helps expel water from the washing machine, and is activated after the spin speed is maintai...
This part is used for the shaft on the rear of the tub and is sold individually. The head bolt is part of the spider arm assembly, and they are generally changed at the same time. If you are replacing...
This is an individually sold front shock absorber designed for use with Samsung dryers. Shock absorbers are used to distribute the weight of the dryer drum evenly and ensure that the different bumps a...
This is a door switch assembly designed for Samsung washing machines. This door switch assembly is used to latch and lock the door shut before the washing cycle commences and communicates with the con...
This is an outer seal clamp for the washer door boot of your Samsung washing machine. This clamp tightly seals the boot of the drum within the door of the washer to prevent leaks. This clamp is made o...
Shipping bolts are installed through the back of the washing machine, and hold the wash tub and basket in place while your washer is being transported. The tub suspension holds the tub correctly in pl...
Watched the video, procedure was simple and as depicted on the video. Started by using a wet shop Vac to the discharge hose and sucked as much dirty wash water out as possible. Removed the pump,and found the motor did not turn freely. Removed the motor (3 screws) and replaced the motor with new part. Reassembled the washer, everything wor
... Read moreked as it should. After about 3-4 loads of laundry, the "Not Draining" code / problem returned. Again, sucked out the water with the Shop Vac. Checked the Filter /Cleanout and found it completely packed with MUD. Cleaned that out, and again disassembled the washer. The pump was removed and the remaining muddy gunk was cleaned from the impeller. The 3 drain lines that attached to the pump were inspected for blockage/obstruction and flushed of any muddy residue. Reassembly was quick and easy, and the washer has worked well since. I have no idea how the dirt got into the system with enough dirt to gunk up the system. Recommend keeping more frequent inspections of the cleanout trap.
Take pics every step, easier re-assembly. Dismantled washer keeping bolt/screw section removed compartmentalized in a tackle box in the order of removal. Replaced drum support, bearings, seal, old blots. Too much to write but I was able to do it all in about 4 hours once all the parts finally came in.
Removed the rear top two Phillips screws, pull off top cover. Unscrew two phillips screws that hold the outside front lock trim, unclip (one left of housing) plastic housing. Remove one phillips screw 11 o'clock from housing, about 6" away, with door button above it, which releases the door lock housing from inside the machine. From right
... Read more side (facing machine) look down into left front of machine, you will see a black cover, which does a goid job hiding the white part, but it protects the part from water, I guess. Unclip 3-4 plugs, push spinning loader away to pull out the complete part easily. Swap back covers (a bit annoying to place wiring harness back in such a tight place, and cover on. You can try another method if you have a simpler way, like place the harness onto part first, before plugging in and placing cover. But, I kept dropping the part into the machine, which equals a little pita). Then screw the 11pm screw to hold part and the two other screws (small housing and cover), place remaining 2 screws, and lid. Pretty much undo the above procedure. Done.
