This is a 120 volt, 60 hertz drain pump assembly for a washing machine. It is a genuine OEM part. This pump helps expel water from the washing machine, and is activated after the spin speed is maintai...
This part is used for the shaft on the rear of the tub and is sold individually. The head bolt is part of the spider arm assembly, and they are generally changed at the same time. If you are replacing...
This is an individually sold front shock absorber designed for use with Samsung dryers. Shock absorbers are used to distribute the weight of the dryer drum evenly and ensure that the different bumps a...
This is a door switch assembly designed for Samsung washing machines. This door switch assembly is used to latch and lock the door shut before the washing cycle commences and communicates with the con...
This is an outer seal clamp for the washer door boot of your Samsung washing machine. This clamp tightly seals the boot of the drum within the door of the washer to prevent leaks. This clamp is made o...
Shipping bolts are installed through the back of the washing machine, and hold the wash tub and basket in place while your washer is being transported. The tub suspension holds the tub correctly in pl...
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Scott
May 11, 2023
Looking for safety glass on door of washer
For model number WF448AAP/XAA-0000
Hi Scott, thank you for reaching out. The safety door glass for your model is part number PS4211389. We hope this is what you were looking for!
Hi Jim, thank you for your question. Most of the time if your appliance will not spin the first part to check for that problem would be your door lock/switch. That part will not allow your appliance to actually go into the spin cycle if it is malfunctioning and believes that the door is open. Good luck with your repair.
Watched the video, procedure was simple and as depicted on the video. Started by using a wet shop Vac to the discharge hose and sucked as much dirty wash water out as possible. Removed the pump,and found the motor did not turn freely. Removed the motor (3 screws) and replaced the motor with new part. Reassembled the washer, everything wor
... Read moreked as it should. After about 3-4 loads of laundry, the "Not Draining" code / problem returned. Again, sucked out the water with the Shop Vac. Checked the Filter /Cleanout and found it completely packed with MUD. Cleaned that out, and again disassembled the washer. The pump was removed and the remaining muddy gunk was cleaned from the impeller. The 3 drain lines that attached to the pump were inspected for blockage/obstruction and flushed of any muddy residue. Reassembly was quick and easy, and the washer has worked well since. I have no idea how the dirt got into the system with enough dirt to gunk up the system. Recommend keeping more frequent inspections of the cleanout trap.
Take pics every step, easier re-assembly. Dismantled washer keeping bolt/screw section removed compartmentalized in a tackle box in the order of removal. Replaced drum support, bearings, seal, old blots. Too much to write but I was able to do it all in about 4 hours once all the parts finally came in.
First unplug or turn off thee circuit breaker. Then remove the two screws to the top cover. Slide the cover back about three inches then remove the cover. Next take out the screw to the old sensor. Then unplug the electrical connection by squeezing and the pulling to disengage. Now set the old unit aside. You then grad your eight inch wi
... Read morere tie and hold the with flat side to the right and just to the right of the screw hole for the bracket is a square hole. Feed to wire tie into the square hole with your left hand then loop down left side of the end of new sensor and back up threw the square hole and tighten with the pliers. Your new sensor will be positioned just like it was mounted to the metal bracket. And pretty ridged. Now connect the vacuum hose and electrical connector.
