The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse ...
This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heate...
This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft....
This dryer door switch is a simple on/off switch mechanism that prohibits the dryer from operating when the door is open, and operates the drum light. White in color and 6.5 inches long, this OEM swit...
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining ...
This dryer drum belt from Whirlpool/Kenmore has five ridges. It is used for many of Whirlpool's brands of clothes dryers. This flat belt is 1/4 of an inch wide.
This kit includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse with a limit of 360 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat and fuse help prevent the dryer from overheating.
If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
$7.04
In Stock
Questions And Answers for WET4027EW1
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Larry
December 16, 2019
I dropped. My ring in th outside tub of washer so i thought i took top part of washer off , when i didn't need to but when i put it back together t;e washer won't come on .Is there a reset button or something i i could do to get it workn. Plz help!
For model number WET4027EW1
Hello Larry and thanks for writing.
It is possible your lid switch PS11741198 came off, check the connections. You should try a hard reset first. Go to your breaker box, turn the breaker for your unit off, wait 5 minutes and turn the breaker back on.if this does not help then your door latch might be faulty. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
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Mark
November 8, 2021
The dryer is totally dead, whereas the washer is working well
For model number WET4027EW1
Hello Mark, thank you for your question. If your dryer is not working, some of the first parts you can inspect are the thermostat and fuses. If these are blown, they will need to be replaced. The dryer timer should also be inspected. Good luck with your repair!
Washer intermittently won't fill with water regardless of what cycle it is on. Can move setting to rinse and it will fill
For model number WET4027EW1
Hello Ricky, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the timer, part number PS11748397, to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of
... Read moreneedle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum
... Read morep. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
