Models > WER211CES0 > Instructions

WER211CES0 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for WER211CES0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WER211CES0
31-45 of 339
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Squealing sound Idler arm and pulley

  • Customer: Lewis from Thornton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
This is actually a white consolidated IND. brand, but that wasn't on your list. Be sure to check your tensioner pully if you hear squealing coming from the dryer. I changed the felt ring and the support bearing before realizing that my pully bushing was the cause of the noise. If you have squealing then spray a little wd40 on the bushing and shaft, if the noise stops, then you found the smoking gun. Replace the pulley. Unhook the spring and it comes right off. No tools needed.

The dryer drum wouldnt turn

  • Customer: Kara from Beckly WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.

Burning odor, melted terminal block

  • Customer: DAVID from DURHAM NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
0) Turned off breaker at panel and disconnected power cord from 240v wall outlet
1) Removed screws that hold electrical cover plate on back of dryer.
2) Lifted the top of dryer using putty knife on 2 top edges of lid. This lifts up like a cars hood.
3) Removed the screws that attach the power cord to the terminal block and disconnected power cord
4) Removed screws that attach terminal block to dryer
5) Removed melted terminals by prying out of terminal block. Note metal lip on terminal has to be lifted in order to slide connector out. Also unscrewed ground wire from terminal block to dryer.
6) Drew diagram of what color wires go to what terminals
7) Cut terminals off of wires and connected new terminals. Crimped closed and used butane solder torch to solder connection between terminal and wire
8) Reconnected terminals to terminal block by sliding in. **Note, had to file down the edges of the terminals using moto-tool to make it fit as they are connected together using break-away tabs that leave a large piece of metal connected not allowing to fit in terminal block
9) Reconnected terminal block to dryer and reconnected ground wire.
10) Reconnected power cord to terminal block with screws
11) Replaced cover over wiring terminal block
12) Reconnected power cored to 240ac wall outlet
13) Turned breaker back on

Wretched screeching noise

  • Customer: Paul from Broadalbin NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

dryer drum squealing loudly!

  • Customer: john from waynesboro VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
THIS UNIT IS A STACKABLE WASHER&DRYER,SO FIRST PULL UNIT AWAY FROM WALL ATLEAST 4 FOOT.UNPLUG POWER CORD,THEN TAKE10 DAGREE FRONT PANEL OFF THEN THE CONTROL PANEL OFF AND UNPLUG THE 5 CONNETORS IF YOUR UNIT HAS THAT MANY,THEN LAY PANEL ASSIDE.TAKE DRYER DOOR OFF,MAKES IT EASIER WHEN PUTTING IT ALL BACK TOGETHER.NOW TAKE FRONT PANEL OFF AND THE DRYER LENT TUBE,NOW JUST TAKE THE 3 CENTER PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS OUT AND SLIDE DRUM OUT.PULL UPWARD ON WHAT THEY CALL THE SHAFT WHICH HELD DRUM ON.NOW THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU SHOULD ORDER.BELT,GROUNDING BALL CLIP,GROUNDING BALL,DRUM SUPPORT BEARING,BEARING BRACKET,AND MOST IMPORTANT PART IS THE SHAFT.THE SHAFT IS UR INSURANCE FOR THE WHOLE JOB.USE A GOOD GREASE LIKE WHITE LITHIUM GREASE AND COAT THE SHAFT END AND THE DRUM SUPPORT BEARING.THE GREASE WILL CUT DOWN ON FRICTION FOR A WHILE,AND RE ASSEMBLE THE WAY YOU TOOK APART.REMINDER GROUNDING BALL GOES BEHIND DRUM SUPPORT BEARING NOT IN FRONT.GOOD LUCK AND PLEASE VACCUM.

Heating element went

  • Customer: Jeff from Newfane NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Tried to follow the directions of others but ran into a problem with getting the top panel off. This is how I did it.
1 Disconnect power and dryer vent tube. Move away from wall.
2 Remove slotted access panel in back of dryer and take belt off motor and idler pulley. Leave on drum.
3 Unscrew the screws on the back of the top panel brackets( mine are silver) where they screw into the back panel and pull up and to the back to get the top panel off. Someone else said to slide a putty knife in the front to release the top but my machine has no spring clips.
4 With the cover off you can see the two heat sensors and I tested them with a multi meter they registered 0 which meant they were OK.
5 Remove the screws that hold the control board on and the plugs that are wired into it making sure that you draw a diagram to remember the wiring. There was a zip tie that I cut to be able to feed the plugs through the hole in the front panel that the wiring must go when the front panel drops down.
6 Remove the screws on the top of the front panel and the screws on the inside of the side panel that hold the front panel secure.
7 A lot goes on on step 7 because the front panel which is hinged drops from the top down to the floor. Diagram and remove all wires there are two green ground wires on the side, Three wires on the door lock, two wires for the light and wires for a moisture sensor. When disconnected feed the control panel plugs and other wires through the hole in the front panel and lift up and out on the front panel it will pop out. Lower it to the floor and let it rest there.
8 Now you can get the drum out of the way by pulling up then out the front where the front panel is now on the floor. Leave the belt on it.
9 Diagram the wiring on the heating element there are connections for the element and the sensor. They gave me a new sensor screwed onto the new heating element. Then unscrew it from the back panel the screws are on the back of the machine.
10 Install is the reverse of the rip down

In hindsight I would have liked to have had the new part before I started the project because the wiring wasn't so fresh in my head a week later when it arrived even with diagrams. Over all it was very simple and took under two hours to complete. I did clean everything I could inside the machine and reglued a couple of the seals that had fallen loose. Works like new and probably went because of overheating with a clogged vent. Lesson... clean your dryer vent every year or sooner.

Dryer would not turn on

  • Customer: Michael from Erlanger KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.

Dryer was not drying clothes

  • Customer: Tina from The Plains VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Other repair stories about this product are very accurate and I used them to do the repair, so I see no need to be redundant.

I'd just like to draw attention to the following:
Disassembling the dryer is somewhat easy. Replacing the heating element is very easy.
Replacing the belt is very easy.

Replacing the drum bearing is somewhat difficult. I purchased a "T" screwdriver in order to get more torque on the screws. When I had the drum bearing in place and the screws partially inserted, I laid a piece of thick foam on the floor and set the drum, bearing side down, on the foam. It is very difficult to get enough tension on the screws to get them through the bearing plate, but setting the drum up this way at least allows you to use gravity to your advantage.

Thanks again to Part Select for making the part purchasing experience so effortless.

Thanks to other writers of "Repair Stories" for making my repair so easy.

Bearing Bracket Worn Out

  • Customer: David from Fairdale KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.

Takes multiple cycles to dry clothes

  • Customer: Pamela from Portland OR
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me.
I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.

The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:

http://www.partselect.com/PS1148434-Frigidaire-134503600-Dryer-Drum-Belt.htm?SourceCode=13&ModelNum=FSE748GFS0

Great site - thank you.

dryer squeeking while in use

  • Customer: Paul from Fort Edward NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
unplug dryer. lift the top of the dryer up and back. Take the screws out holding the front panel on. One on each side. Disconnect wires from door open stop switch and take front panel off. Remove drive belt from around pulleys and lift drum up and forward out the front of the dryer. I had to replace the plastic and metal holder and the grounding ball also. Remove the shaft from the drum and put he new one on. Put the drum back in, wrap the belt around the drum and set drum in plastic holder. Then just reverse your steps. Fairly easy.

The rear drum hitch was sheared off

  • Customer: Nathan from Clarence IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I noticed for sometime that my dryer had been sqeeking...but I had thought nothing of it. It got alot louder as time went on and then one day the drum stopped spinning. Not to mention I had my son's 5th birthday party in 3 days. So I went online and found parts select. They sent me the whole assembly and I got it the day before the birthday, and it only took me 30 mins to replace it. Thank you, Parts Select for the prompt response and saving me for the embarrasment of having clothes all over the floor.

door won't close

  • Customer: Dustin from Edmonds WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
. Supper easy I can't beleive it was over $20 for a little peice of plastic!!!

Dryer not working

  • Customer: Susan from Point Pleasent Beach NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.

Terminal block, and wires were dammaged/melted

  • Customer: Edwin from Eagar AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Used nut driver to remove screw and cover from dryer cord terminal block, used screw driver to remove two screws securing old terminal block, cut dammaged wire and stripped wire back and crimped on new terminal connecter, replaced old terminal block with new one, replaced two screws, installed new cord, and replaced cover plate and screw.
All Instructions for the WER211CES0
31-45 of 339