WEF303PHWA Westinghouse Range - Instructions

First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered.
When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.

pull out old burner, lifted range top change the terminal which took about 5 min. close top put new burner in and was ready to go. works great.

Lifted the oven top, removed the controls cover, slipped the lens into the hole and slid the light holder device onto the lens

From learning the hard way on a previous repair, I opened the circuit breaker for the oven at the circuit box (arc welders use 220 volts also). Then using a nut driver, I removed the two retaining screws and pulled the bake element from the oven (about 3"). Then I removed the spade connectors on both ends of the element and reconnected them to the new element. Then I gently pushed the element back into the rear wall of the oven and replaced the retaining screws. This procedure is extreamly easy and very straight forward, anyone could accomplish this task.

order pcs fit perfect.

I removed the screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out, and one of the leads came off and dropped into the oven. I had to take the back of the stove off and feed the lead back through the hole into the oven. If I had been careful to keep the leads from dropping out of the hole, the whole repair would have taken only a few minutes. But even so, it was quite easy.

REMEMBER TO UNPLUG YOUR APPLIANCE FIRST!

My husband removed the screws that held the top of the stove on and then lifted the top up. It is hinged. He then took out the old insulation, wiped down all visible parts of the interior with a bleach solution and replaced the blanket insulation with the new insulation. That took care of the problem!

This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.

shut off power to stove. Opened the oven door, removed the racks. removed 2 screws holding the element in place. gently pulled element out to expose connections. removed connections. discard old element. reattach connections to new element and reinstall. very simple.

First I unplugged the stove, and removed the upper-back panel. Then I pulled off the control knob. Then I removed the two screws holding the switch to the stove. Then one-by-one I removed the wires from the old switch and connected them to the corresponding tabs on the new switch. Then, using the knob adapter supplied with the new switch, I figured out how much of the knob shaft I had to remove from the new switch to position the knob the correct distance from the face of the stove. Then I tested the switch with a voltmeter as instructed, and then I hooked up the last wire.
Partselect.com is an awsome website!!! I was able to review comments form other do-it-yourselfers that had similar problems. Then I looked up the Partselect schematic drawings of my stove and was easily able to find and order the part I needed. The part arrived at my house within a couple of days and I had the stove fixed in no time.

The old element burnt a hole in itself and just glowed in an area about the size of a quarter. I unplugged the oven, removed the two screws that held the element and removed it. I plugged the oven back in so we could use the top burners. When I went to install the new element I did not unplug the oven as the controls were off. I did not know the element was hot from the outlet (by design) so when I tried to attach the new element sparks flew and it welded itself to the wire so I jerked it looose. I then unplugged the oven, replaced a blown fuse, and installed the element.

I first turned the power supply off to my oven. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the ends. After that I connected the new element to the wires on my oven and secured the element with the two screws and turned the power back on. I pushed the oven-on button and now I'm back in business.

I pulled out the old element and the new one just plugged right in.

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

Very important first step: Turn off the circuit breaker for the range or disconnect the power cord.
I removed the oven door to make it easier to access the back of the oven; remove two screws and the door lifts off of the brackets. Removed a screw from the top of the oven that secures one end of a wire that supports the broil element. Removed two screws that secure the broil element plate to the back of the oven. Pulled the element forward exposing the end terminals and wires. The wires are connected to the element by spade connectors. Used long nosed pliers to remove the connectors from the element. Pushed the connectors on to the new element and stuffed the ends of the element and wires back through the opening and the insulation. Reinstalled the two screws holding the element in place and the screw holding the wire in place across the top of the oven. Reinstalled the door. Took less than 30 minutes.