The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse ...
$19.63
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This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
$26.95
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This dryer repair kit consists of five commonly replaced dryer parts: one multi-rib belt (part #661570V and measures 93 1/2 inches long), four drum support rollers, one idler assembly, nine tri-rings,...
$53.59
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This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. The part includes the d...
$22.69
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This dryer drum belt from Whirlpool/Kenmore has five ridges. It is used for many of Whirlpool's brands of clothes dryers. This flat belt is 1/4 of an inch wide.
$21.95
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The internal-bias thermistor (Thermistor, Dryer Thermister, Dryer Thermistor) prevents the dryer from overheating by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. It is l...
$47.74
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If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$13.42
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If your washer shakes or vibrates loudly when it reaches its max speed, check that the leveling legs are even. To ensure that the washer is firmly on the ground using all four legs, adjust the legs so...
$11.40
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The idler pulley wheel is now sold with this arm. This idler pulley is for dryers.
Idler pulley maintains correct tension on the drive belt to spin the drum.
$26.79
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Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than...
$53.28
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This is the moisture sensor for your dryer. It helps detect the amount of moisture in your clothes during the dryer cycle. If you notice your clothes are still wet after an automatic dryer cycle is do...
$10.72
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Questions And Answers for WED87HEDW0
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Barry
January 7, 2024
How old is this model and/or this particular unit? The Serial # is: M53810126.
Thanks, Barry
For model number WED87HEDW0
Hello Barry, thank you for your inquiry. We have researched and found that your model was manufactured in 9/2015. We hope this information is useful!
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Edna
December 8, 2019
Burning rubber smell after a few mins of running
For model number WED87HEDW0
Hello Edna,
Thank you for your question. Our sources suggest replacing the drive belt for your model under part PS11722115 to fix the burning rubber smell. Hope this helps!
Hi Darlene, thank you for your question. That error means that there is a miscommunication between the main board and the interface board. This is sometimes caused when there is clogging in your vents that go from the appliance to outside of the house, or clogging within the internal duct. You may want to check to make sure those areas are cleaned out. Otherwise there may be an issue in one of your boards. Good luck with your repair.
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Martin
August 21, 2023
I have a Whirlpool duet steam. I'm getting an L2 error on the front and the dryer will not start. I'm able to select the dryer mode, but when I press the start button, it sits for a bit, I hear a few clicks, then the L2 appears. I have turned off the breaker and let it set for several minutes before trying again with same results. I have reset the breaker and turned the dryer to timed run, but still the L2 appears. I have checked the voltage to the back of the dryer and have 240V across the lugs/nuts. I have pulled the thermal fuse and it has continuity, so I think it is still good. Not sure what to check next or how to determine what the problem might be.
For model number WED87HEDW0
Hello Martin, thank you for reaching out. The fault code "L2" on the display of the dryer indicates an electrical problem, specifically a problem with the power supply to the heating element. This may prevent the dryer from heating up to dry clothes. Unplug the dryer and check the power cord wiring on the dryer terminal block. Reconnect any loose power cord connections and wire the power cord according to the directions in the installation manual. With the dryer still unplugged, check the wiring connections on the main control board and reconnect any loose wires. Replace the control board, part number PS11756968, if you find damage. Good luck with your repair!
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of
... Read moreneedle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.
Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.
The actual repair was quite simple and did
... Read moren't take but 15-20 minutes.
I started to repair this and got busy and ended up calling a repair service -- that was the first time. They repaired it for over $200 and said the cause was bad venting. I fixed the vent before using the fixed dryer but it blew again. So I ordered these parts and replaced them myself for a lot of savings. However, the dryer still ove
... Read morerheated. Through lots of testing I found the root cause the repairman missed: The heating element had gotten so hot that the assembly holding it warped, hitting the element and shorting it. So a new element is on order. I still needed the parts I ordered here but the overall repair ended up more complicated and expensive. I was disappointed a paid repair person left without further diagnosis. If he had unplugged the vent and checked the heat on the exhaust vent (as I ended up doing) it would have been obvious more than a new thermal fuse/thermistor was necessary. Instead I wasted over $200 on his visit. So my advice is if you're at all handy, repair this yourself. The dryer has a service manual inside the front toe board that walks you through most diagnostics and tests. However, it took a little more than that for me to discover the heating element problem. This was a very dangerous situation that could have easily led to a fire, yet not found by a trained technician!