WED8300SW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

This has happened several times to my KitchenAid dryer. It cost more than $100 to bring someone in to repair. Fortunately, I saved my bills and saw the part "thermal fuse" listed. I researched that and found your website. I couldn't believe how easy it was to fix. The part cost less than $15 and the diagrams you provided were a big help. I was about to purchase a new dryer, easily $500. Your site saved me a bunch of money. How I fixed? Unscrewed the back panel of the dryer. Found a part that resembled the part you sent me. Slipped it out. Put the new one in...that is it. I also figured that one reason the part keeps burning out is because my duct has to bend to get to the outside vent. The obstruction probably causes the dryer to overheat more often than not. I pulled the dryer 6 inches more away from the wall to see if that helps. My fuse was going out about every 2 years.

Was working fine one load and not the next. I remembered we had used this site for our dishwasher so gave it a try. Went with most common problem first. Ordered Sun rec'd Tues. Took longer to vacuum the back of dryer then it did to replace the fuse. Cost less than 30 bucks including shipping. Video was cool too.

i still cant get it to start i keep having that 06 code revision after i ran the diagnostic i replace the thermistor right after that the dryer start but only dry one load and wont start again then i replace the thermal fuse still not working i order the door switch hopefully that might do it

Previous consumer help advised to check the Thermal Fuse. A quick check using an ohm meter or simply connecting the leads together, confirmed that the Fuse was open and bad. The other essential item is to clean & vacuum all lint from all other dryer parts on the top, drum & back of the dryer. Be sure to also perform a check of the Cycling Thermostat, located near the Thermo Fuse. This is not a difficult repair. Just be sure to disconnect the 220 V and the circuit breaker. A $9 fuse was better than the cost of a repairman or new dryer. Barry Burke, Cincinnati, Ohio.

My dryer is one of the energy efficient models (HE). The video for the installations was knowledgeable, but getting into the front of mine only required removing to screws from the bottom left & right corner (not using a putty knife to pop the springs). the plate on the front drops after that. Also when taking out the tube with the dryer element in it took a lot more twisting inside the frame to get it loose. Still turn it after the wire connections have been pulled off a little bit better than 1/4 of a turn. Also the heating element was in there really, really tight. It required tapping on the plate with a screw driver and a rubber hammer to take it out & put in (not that tough). After putting it in a 1/4 of a turn so that the tab was inside the blower tube. everything after that was pretty easy. The video showed this all being done in a clean dryer. It has been my experience that before all is running & closed back up that a vacuum or shop vac needs to go thru there to clean things up & prevent a future fire.

I put my mind into the repair based on what I saw for a problem and what was given for advise. I was steered toward the thermal fuse, ordered and installed it. Not repaired, in checking the power backward to the panel I found that the dedicated panel had one side blown still allowing for the motor to run but not the element. hmmm

I found some help on-line that suggested some of the most likely causes. The on-line videos showed how to remove clips/panels to access the parts. Once I found the possibly failed parts, door switch and thermal fuse, I did a quick continuity check and found that the thermal fuse had an open circuit.

Took off the backplate of dryer, replaced fuse, done.

My way of replacing the pulley was much faster than the parts select video that showed how to replace the belt tension-er pulley. They took off the door, the entire front AND the drum to get to the pulley. I ACCESSED THE PULLEY BY REMOVING THE 4 INCH EXHAUST PIPE, (ONE SCREW) WHICH GAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH OPENING TO REPLACE THE NEARBY PULLEY! I suggest you remake that video

Easy fix. Took the front panel off, removed the heater tunnel by loosinig the two holding screws. Pulled the whole duct out of the machine and swapped out the old parts for the new. Just reverse the removal procedure and done. One thing to do is to check the exhaust duct to make shure it's not clogged. That was the reason my heating element broke.

The repair was easy--thanks to your excellent videos--also, delivery was prompt and correct--your service is excellent--but, looks like I'll need another part--maybe door latch??? I'll troubleshoot and definitely contact PartSelect--Thank you--will recommend you!

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

I removed the back panel of the dryer and the thermal fuse was about three quarters down the dryer. The exploded parts schematic was very helpful. I simply removed two screws to replace the thermal fuse and reinstalled the back panel. The dryer works great now.

Using the video on the site I was able to open the back on the dryer, replaced the thermal fuse and close it up in less than 15 minutes. Works great and saved me a ton of money.

I simply unplugged the dryer and removed the backing. Once off I located the part which was in plain sight, unhooked the wires and attached them to the new part. Put backing back on plugged it in and turned it on and it worked.