Models > WED70HEBW0 > Symptoms > Not Heating

Parts That Fix Whirlpool Dryer WED70HEBW0 Not Heating

Not Heating is a commonly reported symptom for the WED70HEBW0 Whirlpool Dryer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your WED70HEBW0 Whirlpool Dryer that will fix Not Heating. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!

Fixes Symptom 62% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
355 Reviews

Rated by 364 customers 

  

Really Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse is missing or broken, your dryer will not start. A thermal fuse fails when the exhaust temperature exceeds the fuse rating, that is when the temperature rises above the temperature that the fuse is designed to handle. This can occur when a heating element is shorted, a regulating thermostat or thermister fails, or with a partially restricted exhaust vent. The fuse attaches to the blower wheel housing. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. The replacement part features two 3/16 inch terminals.

$ 19.63
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741460
Manufacturer Part Number WP3392519

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Thermal Fuse

Replacing your Dryer Thermal Fuse

Customer Repair Stories

No heat but would run otherwise

Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.
  • Dana from Grassvally, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
876 of 949 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was working, but no heat.

First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
  • ANTHONY from CHESHIRE, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2966 of 3340 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 15% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
46 Reviews

Rated by 17 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The 5400W, 240-volt heating element is supplied directly by the manufacturer for use in various models of dryers. It is responsible for generating the heat needed to dry your laundry effectively. It is found within the dryer housing, behind the drum. It consists of a coiled wire made of high-resistance material. The wire heats up when an electrical current flows through it and then transfers that heat to the surrounding air. This hot air is then circulated through the drum during the drying cycle. If the heating element becomes faulty, it will be unable to carry out this function leading to poor heating, damp clothes, and high energy usage.

$ 131.52
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746337
Manufacturer Part Number WP8544771

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Dryer Heater Element

Replacing your Dryer Heater Element

Customer Repair Stories

Heater Element bad.

Followed video step by step. Perfect instructions. I’d only add that you should get and wear mechanics gloves. My hands got torn up by the sharp metal edges taking apart and putting it back together. Ouch!!
So happy with Partselect though. Super fast shipping and a perfect instructional video. Thanks!!

P.S. Wear gloves!!!
  • Christian from JOHNSTON, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Had to replace heating element broken coil

Remove bottom panel was able to remove the element from the bottom without taking off the whole front and removing the drum simply remove the panel remove the two wires connected to the coil unbolted the bracket that was held on by two small bolts then removed the 4 bolts holding the bracket together was able to remove the heating element and then put everything back together did not have to remove the drum the top or the back panel To complete the repair I am not an appliance repair technician just a homeowner but I was still able to repair this myself and it’s working just fine
  • Carter from NORFOLK, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 11% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
30 Reviews

Rated by 30 customers 

  

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

The internal-bias thermistor (Thermistor, Dryer Thermister, Dryer Thermistor) prevents the dryer from overheating by monitoring and controlling the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum. It is located on the blower housing, next to the thermal fuse. If your thermistor is defective, drying time could be prolonged or you could get a fault code. You could also notice your dryer overheating. You can test the outlet thermistor on a multimeter, it should read 10Kohms (10,000 ohms) of resistance at room temperature. It can tolerate 10% fluctuation. If your reading indicates the part is defective, it will need to be replaced. This model is white plastic. It is sold individually.

$ 47.74
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746740
Manufacturer Part Number WP8577274

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Replacing your Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.
  • Dixon from Santa Fe, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash E1 trouble code

Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!
  • Jim from Tucson, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
30 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 8% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
21 Reviews

Rated by 12 customers 

  

Easy 

30 - 60 mins 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

Also known as Thermal Cut-Off kit. The thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating and the fuse is like a backup system - it's set to trip at a higher temperature than the thermostat. Once it trips, it has to be replaced.

$ 53.28
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334387
Manufacturer Part Number 279973

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit

Replacing your High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer not heating

Open breaker and ensure power was off. Checked heating components for continuity.Found thermal fuse had an open circuit.Replaced High limit thermostat and thermal fuse.Now is a good time time check for free flowing vent piping.I discovered mine was crimped below the floor and caused lint build up and obstructing the flow which could have led to the thermal fuse blowing.I replaced the vent piping as well.My wife says the dryer works better now than it ever has.
  • Stephen from Andalusia, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Flashing E1 code for a bad thermistor

I replaced the thermistor earlier, but the code was still flashing. I noticed the heater terminals were charred and pretty well covered in carbon. So, I replaced the heater, the thermostat and thermal fuse and replaced the 3/8" spade terminals on the heater wires. (These are hard to find - most electrical spades terminals are .250. Also, I crimped and soldered these for a connection with the lowest resistance possible). After all that, the code still flashed! I let the explatives fly, calmed down, and ran the control board test. (This is done by pressing "more time" "less time" "more time" "less time" in succession.) The control board was passing all the tests, but the thermistor test, and the only thing is in this circuit is the thermistor, the wires, the connector to the control board, and some circuit on the control board that involves a few resistors and the "brain" chip. So, I checked the terminals at the thermistor, the wires up to the control board and the connector at the board. The control board connector was fairly dust encrusted, so I unplugged it, cleaned the control board terminals and sucked away all the lint and dust. Finally, I carefully removed earch crimp terminal from the Molex connector (the white female connector) and cleaned and bent them to yield a better connection to the terminals on the control board. I put it all back together, and thus far it is working fine.
  • John from Cedar Rapids, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
17 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 4% of time
★★★★★
★★★★★
3 Reviews

Rated by 10 customers 

  

Really Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.   

This kit is used for electric clothes dryers, and it comes with a yellow wire nut.

$ 11.06
  In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334206
Manufacturer Part Number 279457

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element Connection Wire Kit

Replacing your Heating Element Connection Wire Kit

Customer Repair Stories

Dryer stopped heating

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.
  • Joseph from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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couldn't get the wire connection anywhere after we bought the heating element.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.
  • Betty from Erie, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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