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Models > WED6200SW1 > Instructions

WED6200SW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for WED6200SW1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WED6200SW1
31-45 of 962
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dryer wouldn't dry at all

  • Customer: David from Bend, OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 27 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
1. UNPLUG 2.Undo 8 screws @ back of dryer. Locate heating element midway down on right about 6"x10" has three thermostat wires connected to it undo the 2 screws & 3 wires either order. You will need to pry up GENTLY on the thermostat on the old element. Replace themostat to new element and make a test run to make sure its running and HOTand repeat steps in reverse order...

Drier would not heat

  • Customer: Jason from Birmingham, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Wife said the drier was not heating. I looked on the internet and found Parts Select. Followed the instructions to test the heating element, thermal cut-offs, and thermostat. This is really easy, you just touch the terminals with the voltage meter to see which ones are not transmitting current (with the drier unplugged). One of the thermal cut-offs was not transmitting current so I ordered the part Sunday night and had it by Wednesday morning and put it on it about five minutes. Steps:

1. Unplug drier
2. Unscrew back of drier
3. Unplug wires from terminals of the parts shown in Parts Select instructions (one at a time)
4. Get a basic voltage meter (I bought a cheap one at the big box store)
5. Test terminals (touch the red terminal on the voltage meter to one side, black to the other)
6. If the needle moves to the other side, the part is OK, if not order the part and replace.

dryer makes a lot of noice, bad rolleres

  • Customer: Jesus E from Palm Bay, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
super fast shipping, got the part in two days, and had it done in 15-20 min, remove the front pannel, remove the belt and tenssioner,took the drum out , took the old rollers , lubed the shafts,replaced the old rollers with the new ones, intalled the drum back, the tenssioner and the new belt, reinstalled the front pannel, and done...easy and fast job, like new dryer, works nice...save some money...the new one will do the same..just dry the clothes.

Drum would turn but not heat.

  • Customer: james from corpus christi, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
After tearing the back off by removing the numerous 1/4 inch hex screws, and locating the schematic in the compartment behind the dryer controls, I took a multimeter on the resistance setting and tested all the components I deduced were part of the heating circuit until i found the upper limit temp fuse of was open (i.e infinite , OL, how ever your meter will display this). I ordered the kit from here and upon installation found I had a different type of Thermistat assembly then the kit came with, however, the kit did anticipate this might happen and had "some" instruction on modifying the wire harness to accommodate the part. Essentially if you have this older style you will need to do some basic wire stripping and crimping to make it all work. While I am an electrical technician on aircraft, anyone should be able to follow the how-to video on this page(which deals exactly with what I had) and with the proper tools install this part.
I also cleaned out and inspected the rest of the dryer since I had it all open, including looking for burning on the heating element and inspection of the rest of the wiring harness. Finally removed the lint chute by removing the two screws located under the lint basket door, and the nuts holding it to the dryer frame and did a work over on it, finding a lot of compacted lint and debris inside. A can of compressed air helped a lot for this.

Dryer making very loud noises!

  • Customer: Steve from Saint Clair Shores, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug the dryer.
Remove the lint filter.
Remove two(2) screws by the filter.
Use a screwdriver to raise the top of the dryer.
Unplug wires going to the front panel (pull apart)
Remove two(2) hex head screws.
Lift front panel out of the way.
Use a light to view the pulley assembly on the bottom.
Raise the pulley to remove the drive belt.
Use a hex socket to remove one(1) bolt from the bracket.
Install new part.
Reverse order of dis-assembly.
Very Very Easy!

Dryer door wouldn't 'latch' closed.

  • Customer: Christopher from Oceanport, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
took off about 8 screws, opened door into it's front & back parts, popped out the old/broken door catches and re-inserted replacements. Only 1 is needed, but this is the 2nd one to break. The first time a repairman switch the un-used from right side to left. (there are 2 so the door can be hung left or right opening)

Dryer would not heat up; blow only air

  • Customer: William from Sacramento, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the thermal cut off kit, and the dryer now had heat. Three days later, no heat; the thermal fuse also did not have continuity. Read on-line that overheating was the most likely cause. So, I checked the exhaust duct for blockage, but it was clear. Then, I removed the exhaust canister at the back of dryer; the entire bottom was filled with lint the size of a softball. The lint was heating up, and when it got too hot, it blew the thermal cut off. Cleaned out the lint, replaced the thermal cut off, and now it's fine. Moral of the story: Remove the lint canister and clean it.

Unit would shut down in the middle of cycle and flash E1 trouble code

  • Customer: Jim from Tucson, AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 20 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Had to remove the back of unit to access the area of subject part by removeing 12 to 14 screws also the gas line had to be removed. Two screws held the part in place. Unit now runs normal.Saved alot on repair costs!!!!!

The Dryer Would Not Turn On

  • Customer: Ribhe from Wildwood, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The dryer wouldn’t turn on at all. It was like it was unplugged from the wall. However, fixing it couldn't be easier. I simply removed the back panel, found the fuse, tested it with an Ohmmeter (to determine that this was the part that didn't work), ordered the part from this website, and replaced the part. The part arrived in about two days. The shipping was a little pricey, but overall the whole thing cost me $20 vs. whatever it would cost me to get someone else to repair it. The website helps to identify the problem, and it is helpful to read how other people fixed their problems. It was so easy and the service was so good, I will definitely use this website again and recommend it to others.

Dyer drum doesnt turn

  • Customer: Shawn from Akron, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
It was really quite esy remove the screws from the back and pop the top off . then remove 2 top inside screws from the front , lift the front off the sides , support the drum and lift out , you will then see the idler wheels, replace them with the new ones ,replce the tensioner , wrap the belt around the drum, need help putting the drum back in the case, have someone hold the drum in place while you lay on the ground and put the belt around the motor pulley and the tensioner on the bottom.you then put the front panel back into place and secure with the 2 inside screws, then put the rest back together in reverse oder. ... hope this helps someone

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Dryer would not heat

  • Customer: Gary from Seguin, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two wires from the overheat fuse, then I removed the 1 screw and removed the fuse. I installed the new overheat fuse and attached with 1 screw, then reconnected the 2 wires. I attached the back cover with two screws and tested the dryer. It was working, so I finished attaching the back with the remaining screws and exhaust duct. Installation complete.
Note: Two weeks later I had to replace the fuse again because I had checked the duct pipe and exhaust chute, but not the bottom at the fan. Be sure to remove the flat exhaust duct and check for bulid-up at the bottom under the fan.

Drum spinning but no heat

  • Customer: Chad from Derby, KS
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Purchased thermal cut off kit but only replaced the top most thermostat. There were some extra wires wired into the bottom thermostat, that were not described on the video or any other repair user posts. It checked fine on my multimeter anyway.

dryer sounded like I was strangling a dog

  • Customer: Lynda from Syracuse, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First, I watched a utube video of replacing the dryer belt. Then I went to Sears Hardware and couldn't find a part. Then I ordered the parts for my favorite online repair parts source - partselect.com. I had the part in one day! We did exactly what the video showed and also replaced the two wheels that looked like roller blade wheels. Piece of cake. Saved a $75 repair call plus whatever the parts would have been and spent about 20 minutes doing it. Back in business. Great for a 12 year old dryer! Buy the dryer kit!

Dryer turns off after 1-2 minutes

  • Customer: Dixon from Santa Fe, NM
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.
All Instructions for the WED6200SW1
31-45 of 962