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WDB11NRDS2 Westinghouse Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for WDB11NRDS2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WDB11NRDS2
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No water to dishwasher on any cycle

  • Customer: David from Las Cruces NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

Dishwasher door practically fell open

  • Customer: Daniel from Fremont NE
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
All I had to do was replace the spring and retainer on the side of the dishwasher which amounted to pulling it out far enough to reach the eyelet that the hook went into and then stretching it to the retainer attached on the other end. I really like partselect, I have done some things in the past and they are very helpful on the site and on the phone and I would recommend them to anyone and I would not normally do that unless it has been an excellent experience.

high limit thermostat was open

  • Customer: Robert from Huntingtown MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

Dishwasher leaking

  • Customer: matthew from west river MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

Leaking from the bottom of the door

  • Customer: beth from green bay WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
With the door wide open and lower dishtray out, I pulled the old gasket out of its channel. I cleaned the channel with a rag and replaced it with the new gasket. It needed to be trimmed about an inch in order to get the door to close properly. Took me about 5 minutes. Then I removed the old bottom door gasket. Just grasped the plastic edge showing while the door is completely open. Pull outward with fingers moving toward the heating element. Cleaned this area also. Took the new gasket with notch on the right hand side of the dishwasher and pushed it into place. If you get down and look closely, you can see where the notch hooks up. The rest of the piece just slides in after that. Hasn't leaked since! No leaks AND no service call fee. Parts came super fast! So glad I found this website. I'm a housewife, you can do this!

Heater High-Limit Thermostat Failed

  • Customer: Scott from Hermitage TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.

dishasher Soap/Rinse Dispenser

  • Customer: George from Fond Du Lac WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
The latch on the soap dispenser got worn out over the past few years on the dishwasher. I tried just puting the detergent into it and running it as usual. The detergent was added Immediatley.. missing the proper timing that would normally dispense it properly. As a result the dishes were not coming out clean and lacked the shiny clean quality we were accustomed to . I ordered the right part, got it quickly and put it in..and were back to doing dishes and having them come out the right way...spotless and clean like they should.

Drain hose was missing

  • Customer: John from Carthage MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
My friend bought a used dishwasher at a garage sale, the previous owner had thrown away the drain hose because it was "nasty" they said....remember it could have been cleaned. When I went to install it, I removed the old washer, and discovered that the old hose would not fit on the replacement dishwasher. I went to the local repair shop, armed with the model and serial #'s. they searched and searched their books and could not find the hose part number. they said "good luck" when I left...I went home and looked up the model on your web site, ordered the hose, and in 3 days had the dishwasher installed and running in about 30 minutes...thanks for prompt shipping.. I couldn't believe it arrived so soon...Mowerman

Dishwasher was leaking at the lower left side of the door.

  • Customer: John from Hummelstown PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...

old valve leaked

  • Customer: Ron from Billings MT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape.
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)

Diswasher would not drain with a staticky sound.

  • Customer: Brenda from Orem UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the dishwasher out and laid it on its back. From under the dishwasher I unscrewed three screws and freed the drain pump from some sort of frame. Then with the pliers loosed the orange clamp that held the black hose to it. Then unscrewed the clamp that held the white hose to it. Then pulled out the purple and white fuse wires. These wires were very tight I used pliers to get them off. The pump was free. Be sure to have a bowl to catch all the water. There wasn't a lot but it stinks. Then put it all together the way I took it apart. The dishwasher works perfectly now.

heater element burnt out (black spot)

  • Customer: Wendell from Madisonville TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure power is off. Remove metal toe kick with fillips screw driver. Reach under dishwasher with 1/2" open
end wrench and completly unscrew brass nuts from element ends. Then open door and pull element ends straight up. Note: As you pull element ends up (inside washer) you are also forcing the element end wire connectors to come off underneath. The electricial connectors are very hard to get off any other way.

Wendell Hensley
Madiso0nville, Tn

Heating coil went bad

  • Customer: Ryan from Alton IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter. I then had to unscrew (from the bottom) the bolts that held the heater in place. After that I ran into a problem of disconnecting the wires that ran to the heater. I did not want to "force" the wires off and I was unsure how exactly to remove them. I figured out that they are really hard to pull off but there are no clips holding them on, so you won't break anything off. Once I got the wires off, I was able to screw the nuts onto the new heater and put it back into place.

water leak right bottom corner

  • Customer: Grant from Fairview TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Fully open dishwasher door to horizontal position, remove lower dishwasher rack and relocate to another temp location, grab old lower door seal from right or left corner and pull completely out of door, lay the old bottom seal aside facing the same direction as once installed (seal has a notched side which faces the right side of door), match direction of the new seal with the old seal (match the notched side of seal to the right side of door), gently push the seal into the door starting on the right side (notched side of seal fits tightly into a receiving area inside the door), and finally push the remaining portion of the seal into door (aligning with the right side already properly seated inside dishwasher door). Close dishwasher and run water cycle to confirm leak.

Leaking Door

  • Customer: Robert from Clinton OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled out old gasket from bottom of door with needle nosed pliers and then put in new one in.
All Instructions for the WDB11NRDS2
16-30 of 323