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WDB11NRDB0 Westinghouse Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for WDB11NRDB0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WDB11NRDB0
1-15 of 286
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Leak in the water inlet valve/solinoid

  • Customer: Mickey from Ooltewah TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 106 of 115 people found this instruction helpful
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the vavle assembly.
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection from the solinoid.
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solinoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve.
8. Turned on the water, washed some dishes.

Bottom Door Seal fell apart and started leaking.

  • Customer: Scott from Flowood MS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 70 of 80 people found this instruction helpful
First I opened the door all the way. Second I reached down to the bottom gasket then grabed it on the right end of the seal that is on the right side of the door. Then I pulled the end outward from the bottom of the door toward the heater coil in the bottom of the washer. It came out real easy. You see it just snaps into a little plastic groove under the door. I then cleaned up the area for food and soap particules. I then placed the new gasket in place by lining up the notch toward the right end with the piece of plastic that encloses the right end of the plastic notch on the bottom right end of the door. Then push it in untill it stops going into the notch. It snaps in but does not make a snaping sound. It just won't go in no more.

dishwasher was leaking water

  • Customer: Charles from Milton FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 48 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.

Latch on detergent dispenser was broken

  • Customer: Teresa from Phoenix AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 41 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
Reading the instructions posted, I realized that I only needed to remove the two lower screws on the inside of the dishwasher door. The lower front panel then came off easily. I unplugged the power to the dishwasher. I then removed the six screws holding the dispenser in place, and when loose I unplugged the two wires (I used a flat blade screwdrive to pry them a bit then they slid off -- note the red one was inside, lighter one outside). I put the new part in, put in all but the left screw with the hook. I then plugged the wires in, and fastened the left screw with the hook positioned around the wires. I put the panel back on, fastenet the two screws that hold it in, and plugged the dishwasher back in. It's working beautifully. All in all it was about 20 minutes.

Dishwasher would not drain

  • Customer: John from Alexandria VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 42 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
**** A stubby Philips screw driver will save you a lot of headache taking the two retaining screws out that hold the drain pump assembly to the hanging bracket *** An inspection mirror was also helpful trying to locate these screws.

I thought the pump impeller vane was possibly broken because the pump would not drain the dishwasher but it would energize and make a loud clicking/rumbling noise.

1) Drain water from the dishwasher. I used a piece of tubing and siphoned the water out. Remove front cover plate.

2) Turn off breaker and dsconnect two wires going into pump.

3) Remove the pump inlet. I kept the 4" rubber jumper piece attached when I took the pump out.

4) I had to disconnect the wash water feed line to be able to reach the hose clamp on the pump outlet.

5) Loosen hose clamp on the pump outlet if you can reach it, otherwise remove the two screws that hold the drain pump assembly in. There is one screw on each side of the pump. I used an inspection mirror to see the screws. I had to use a stubby Philips head screw driver to take the screws out.

6) Wrangle the drain section out and finish taking off the pump outlet hose clamp. Install new pump and work backwards to put it together.

When I pulled the pump out I found the impeller to be complete (not broken as I had thought) and I saw it had two small steel balls that sat in grooves. I think the two balls and groove act as a safety detent and disengage the pump if something big gets sucked in. I pushed down on the impeller and everything snapped together nicely. Since I already ordered a new pump and I had everything taken apart already I installed the new one but I think I could have just used the old one.

Hope this is helpful to someone else. Washer has worked fine since.

leak at heater element

  • Customer: jr from hollywood FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 39 of 45 people found this instruction helpful
The tub perforations at the heater leaked and water dripped onto the fastening nuts and the electrical connections. I ordered a new heater element and it did not have the necessary nuts to fasten it to the tub. I had to go back and order them separately. The original nuts are very unique and cannot be substituted for.The manufacturer should send them with every heater element because this leaking problem is very prevalent on these machines.

Water leaking under the dishwasher

  • Customer: Dennis from Tryon NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 36 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
I looked under and found that 2 brass nuts that secured the heater element through the base housing of the dishwasher has split down each side of the nut and no longer was tight enough to keep water from leaking around either end of the heater element. I powered down the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and then reached under the dishwasher and pulled away the 2 wires that were attached to each side of the heater element. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with the parts I ordered from partselect.com. I then put the appropriate wires back at the end of the heater element and ran the dishwasher to check for leaks. No leaks... it was fixed.

Melted spray arm resulted in leaky dishwasher

  • Customer: Allison from Greenville SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 29 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Over Thanksgiving, the spray arm in my dishwasher apparently popped off and was partially melted. I remounted it inside the dishwasher, but the new hole was on the side of the arm. I think this resulted in water being sprayed directly against the door and not up through the top holes. It flooded my kitchen floor.

The spray arm pops on and off with plastic tabs (?) at the base. You can lightly pry with a butter knife or simply wiggle it off. The new one popped right on. Easiest repair EVER.

Dishwasher was leaking

  • Customer: Nejla from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 26 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!

Water in dishwasher did not heat up. Dishes came out dirty and greasy. Some fungus started to grow in dishwasher.

  • Customer: Ewout from Bozeman MT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

high limit thermostat was open

  • Customer: Robert from Huntingtown MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

No water to dishwasher on any cycle

  • Customer: David from Las Cruces NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

Dishwasher door practically fell open

  • Customer: Daniel from Fremont NE
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
All I had to do was replace the spring and retainer on the side of the dishwasher which amounted to pulling it out far enough to reach the eyelet that the hook went into and then stretching it to the retainer attached on the other end. I really like partselect, I have done some things in the past and they are very helpful on the site and on the phone and I would recommend them to anyone and I would not normally do that unless it has been an excellent experience.

Dishwasher leaking

  • Customer: matthew from west river MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

Heater High-Limit Thermostat Failed

  • Customer: Scott from Hermitage TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.
All Instructions for the WDB11NRDB0
1-15 of 286