Models > WCVH6600H0BB > Instructions

WCVH6600H0BB General Electric Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for WCVH6600H0BB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the WCVH6600H0BB
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Water leak

  • Customer: Dennis from Mount Kisco NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Any repair should go easily if you have the right tools and the right PARTS. Like the before mentioned and all went well. The hardest thing about this particular water leak is identifining were the leak is. These parts are on the top of the washer. Take the top off and whamo there it is the cracked fill tube and smashed to hell washer. Real easy to replace. BUT that is really putting a band-aid on the problem. To me this washer was poorly designed by GE. Washer sits on a thick rubber mat, which sits on a conrcete floor and still jumps around, mainly when towels are in it.Fix that problem and then replacing these parts is a one time deal.

water would not stop filling in machine even when it was unplugged! !

  • Customer: Jonathan from Oviedo FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Step 1- pull washer away from wall. Step2- unplug power, shut off water and disconnect lines, and disconnect drain line. Step 3- unscrew 3 screws from bk and 3 screws from behind control panel. Step 4- remove back of control panel and top of washer. Step 5- unplug wires from old valve and plug into new valve to avoid wrong connection take out screw from back releasing old valve , insert new valve and put back screw. Step 6 put top of washer and back of control panel on and insert screws. Step 7- reconnect hoses and drain , plug washer in and test. All done. I recommend adjusting to level if necessary at this point before pushing back against wall. Good luck. Hope this helps somebody. Jon

Pump motor went out and quit draining

  • Customer: SCOTT from BOSSIER CITY LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
My part came in and my husband was at work so..... I did not want to wait for him to come home to wash my clothes! I installed the motor myself and I was not even the one that took it off! It was so easy to do! Turned the washer on and bingo it was back and going! So glad I can get the parts myself and avoid the middle man and his bill!!! Hook up the drain hose with pliers and screw the motor to the frame and that's it!

Door Boot Seal was warped.

  • Customer: Herbert from Central Islip NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
After looking at the video on how to repair a door boot seal on a Front Loader Washer. I went about installing the new boot seal, but after it still didn't fit in place correctly, I glanced over the top and noticed and after a few minutes noticed that one of the suspension springs was broken and the drum had dropped quite a bit. I ordered the spring I believe it was part 204 and in a couple days I and my father got the spring in place and now the washer is working as good as new. As it turns out I didn't need the door boot seal after all so now I have a backup incase one fails.

Water dripping from soap dispenser outlet tube

  • Customer: LARRY from GREENWELL SPRINGS LA
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed top cover, loosened front door cover, removed & replaced old cracked plastic 'water inlet tube', reinstalled front door unit & top cover. Very tight space to work in when not completely removing front door unit.

door was not locking properly

  • Customer: David from Yakima WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
removed the spring-loaded ring around drum seal, removed old lock latch, and installed new lock latch. also, removed old door plunger and installed new one. then re-installed the spring-loaded ring lock around the seal. there were 5 screws and 3 electrical plugs that were easy to remove and re-install. note: i used a black sharpie to mark where the original door plunger was prior to removing the original.

Torn Door Boot Seal

  • Customer: ROBERT from EDGEWATER MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the bottom panel. Remove the top. Remove the front panel with the door. Romove the two clamps on the boot seal. Remove the old boot seal. Place the new boot seal on the casing around the drum and ensure you put the gasket nozzle and gasket nozzle washer in place. Install the inside gasket clamp with the clamp bolt to the right as you look at it (Note: ensure the nut is over the tab on the boot gasket and stays lined up there as you tighten it. Replace the front panel of the washer and when it is in place put the boot seal on the outside lip (Note: this is the most difficult part as the gaskets does not like to stay in place as you put the outside clamp on. Replace the washer top. Replace the lower panel (Note: while you have the bottom panel off, you may want to clean the debrie trap which is a white pipe and tray that catches stuff that is left in pockets.) For the entire project I used 7mm and 8 mm sockets, flathead screw driver, and a philips head screw drive.

My rinse cycle was not running because the cold water was not entering the washer

  • Customer: TERRESSA from TULSA OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instruction on your site. I disconnected the power to the washer turned off the water turned on the nearest faucets to drain the lines. I removed the water hoses from the machine then took the three screws out of the back at the top of machine that held the lid on then removed the three screws on the top of the lid that hold the plastic piece to the front panel and pushed the lid toward the back and it lifted off. I then took the metal ring clamp off the water line attached to the water inlet valve and took the screw out that is on the back of the machine holding it on removed the wire plugs one at a time and put them one at a time on the new inlet valve so I would not get them mixed up. I then put the valve in place reconnected the water hose and metal clamp put the screw in the back to reattach valve the machine put the lid back on in reverse to removal reattached water hoses to the inlet valve turned the water back on plug in the power and immediately used the machine which works like new 20 minute job from beginning to end. By the way ladies if I can do it you can do it. TC

Cracked drum spider from electolysis

  • Customer: Theo Welch from Long Beach MS
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Sandblasted spider to thoroughly clean it and increase ductility.We used aluminum foil covered in 5200 on one side to cover holes eaten through spider. Then glued the spider to the drum and filled inside rim of spider with a nice layer of 5200. If the spider was made of stainless steel, the washer would still be running great. Thanks

Water leak at front of washer

  • Customer: Charles from Madison FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
Removed top and front control panel. Shut off water, disconnect water lines at front and dispenser. Remove dispenser. Remove water inlet pipe by pulling out of boot. Install new pipe.Reverse proceedure. Note, these pipes may tend to split on the bottom.

Small tear on Door Boot Seal that allowed water to leak

  • Customer: Edwin from Gainesville VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
This is the second door boot seal that I've replaced on my GE Washer (I don't know the model number). I turned on my IPad, went on YouTube, and found this video: "GE Front Loader Washer Gasket Replacement." I placed the IPad on top of the dryer which was right next to the washer and followed the instructions step by step. I used the pause and play buttons repeatedly to ensure I followed the instructions correctly. The hardest part was placing two retainer rings back on. These retainer rings are used to attach the gasket to the washer drum and to the door opening. When the door is closed it effectively seals the drum preventing water from spilling out or leaking. Before reinstalling both rings, ensure that the gasket is properly seated inside the appropriate grooves on the drum and the door opening respectively. It’s a very tight fit between gasket and metal, so you have to make sure the gasket is properly seated all the way around. The inside retainer ring can be tighten with a Philips screw driver or a small wrench. Not as easy as it sounds because you don't have too much room to work with. I had to grab the drum on the right side and tilt to the left in order to get a little more room for my screwdriver. It may be easier with a small wrench, but I don't have the patience. The second retainer ring goes on the outside of the gasket and the door opening. This ring is spring loaded. Attempt to place as much of the ring inside the groove before the spring loaded tension prevents you from going any further. When you get to this point, take a flat tip screwdriver (careful not to damage the gasket) and hold the retainer ring in place while moving counterclockwise and with a second flat tip screwdriver stretched the ring and popped into place until the whole ring is in place. The guy in the video does this effortlessly with only his hands. The first time I did this, my wife helped me do it. She held the left side while I used two flat tip screwdrivers to stretch the ring, pop in place, hold, stretch, and pop in place until complete. Once you're done you will feel good about yourself and grateful to the gentleman who recorded the video and was nice enough to share. Good luck.

drive pulley came loose from shaft

  • Customer: Eddie from Monrovia CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
hold drive pulley from turning and used socket wrench to remove nut. then pulled off pulley from shaft and belt came off same time. very carefully filed the flat sides of the shaft end where the pulley slides onto. careful not to overfile or round out the she shaft end. carefully tap in place the pulley onto the shaft. install a new nut and tighten it approx. 40 ft pounds or 1/4 turn past tight. do not reuse old nut. pulley comes with a new one and the nylon on the old one is no good once used. once pulley is tight install the belt first onto the motor shaft then work the other end of the belt onto the pulley from top end then turn the pulley wheel counter clockwise as you push more belt onto the pulley wheel. kind of like putting on your bicycle tire on your rim.

Baffle broke off inside the washer

  • Customer: Ted from Highland Park NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
You probably won't want to publish this but it worked. The baffle on the GE washer I have required a complete tear down of the machine's front and outer waterproof drum to get a tiny little screw out. Very poor design if you ask me. And, I was not about to pay a technician for a massive overhaul to get a 3/8" long stainless screw off the broken remains of the baffle. So, I measured how far over the screw was from the pipe that feeds detergent, softener and bleach into the drum. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the outer drum. After removing the screw and installing the new baffle (which took all of about 2 minutes), I put a 3/8" hole plug I bought at Lowes into the hole with two part plastic epoxy. Then I covered the entire hole plug with a crown of epoxy. Five minutes later when the epoxy set, I ran a load of clothes. It ran perfectly and did not leak. I know. I know. This is not what you would recommend to your readers but it worked. I was brought up fixing everything around the home and any effectie shortcut was/is used. Oh,by the way, if you know which GE engineer thought up the design for this baffle installation, whack him on the head once.

Water leaking from the door boot area.

  • Customer: Jimmy from Zebulon GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I watched the video and followed the instructions. First remove power. Remove the rear cover from the control panel and the top cover. Then remove screws that secure the control panel to the frame and remove the control panel. Remove the bottom cover. Then remove the lock ring that holds the rubber boot to the front panel. Remove the door and remove the water inlet pipe. Assemble the machine and run a test cycle.

THE WASHER WAS LEAKING A LOT OF WATER

  • Customer: Luciano from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 0 of 0 people found this instruction helpful
I SAW THE VIDEO ON HOW TO REMOVE THE BOOT SEAL, AND I JUST FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. REPLACING THE WATER INLET PIPE WAS EASY.
All Instructions for the WCVH6600H0BB
31-45 of 46