WBVH5300K3WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Ordered new Parts. Removed old/worn parts. Found that the "hammering" from a loose pulley had worn and deformed the edges of the shaft where the flats are to accept new pulley.
Gently filed the flats with the flat surface of the file and filed the hump on the shaft that the "hammering" created. Take extreme caution to not file surfaces too much, because new pulley will be loose and the next step is to replace the drum shaft.($$$$) Pulley did not fit 100% (Had some slop) but that was from material being worn away from "hammering" effect. Torqued with Torque wrench and added green 609 loctite compound - this is meant to help adhere and take up some loose fit in assemblies. - Drawback to Loctite is most have to be heated to 300 to 400 degrees to remove, or pulley will need to be cut off and ruined, I further repair/removal of pulley is necessary. This is an Easy Fix/Replacement of parts.... The hard part is filing the drum shaft surfaces to accept the new pulley, and getting the belt back on - Belt is tight but needs to be stretched on like putting a bike chain back on.

Washer now spins and sounds like a dream!
- Good Luck!

Remove the front coverfrom the machine. This is done by removing the 3 screws at the bottom of the panel. The panel then drops down and pulls straight off. The pump is located on the front right wall of the of the machine. You will notice a 2-3 inch diamete threaded cap on the right side of the front wall of the machine. This is the front of the pump and access to the filter. Place a large bucket under this cap and slowly loosen the cap. All of the water remaining in the machine will begin to drain (this could be a lot of water. Do not remove the cap completely so that you can quickly stop the flow of water if needed). Once all water is drained from the appliance, Disconnect the two hoses from the pump using a pair of pliers to looses the presure clamps, sliding the clamps back an then pulling off the hoses (be careful of any remaining water in the hoses). Then remove the two screws from the rear base of the pump that secure it to the bottom floor panel of the washer. Slide the pump slightly to the rear to free it from the fittings on the front wall of the machine and the lift the pump up. At this point, firmly pull out the wiring harness plugged into the top right side of the pump. Install the new pump by plugging in the wiring harness and resecuring the pump. Plug in the machine and run on the rinse and spin cycle to test.

I took the two drain hoses off with the pliers then only two screws that holds the pump. After that the two hot wires which are black and white. But remember to unplug you're washer since the pump is not grounded you don't want to risk being shocked. Hope thi helps. Plus i saved around 250.00 by repairing myself.

I called a repair person to check my 15 months old GE front loader washer that stopped in rinse mode. After his inspection he said it was a deffected computer board and it would be very expensive to replace the 3 computers boards inside and it would be cheaper to buy a new top loader washer. The next day I lifted the top cover and found a taped plastic envelope with instructions titled “For service Technicians Only." On page 2, instruction on to how to enter the washer in to service mode and to test the washer:
Press : Signal, Delay, Signal, Delay (within 30 seconds of plug in washer)
Then rotate main knob to #102 and press Start:(the washer did a test for finding the problem) , and for me was : E22 , it means : replace solenoid valve assembly.
So I order the part from Partselect.com for $58.00 and my Washer runs beautiful, thanks to the instructions inside.

First I unpluged electrical cord. removed the 4 screws
on the back panel. I then loosen the (1) motor bolt that
you can adjust for tightness after you put the new
drive belt on the round pulley. Make sure the bolt in the center of the round pulley is tight. The round pulley should not wabble. Make sure not to over tighten the drive belt on the motor. A slight play is fine. Put back
panel on and plug electrical cord. Run washer cycle
on and check. Should be OK.

Remove bottom kick plate of washer. Remove 4 screws behind door that hold the latch/lock assembly. Reach up inside the washer from underneath to unplug 3 wire connectors. (This is a very tight spot). Once wires are off, part comes right out. Connect wires to the new part - this is by far the most difficult part of the job because it is way up inside the washer. Replace all bolts.
Overall, pretty easy to do - just reconnecting the wires is a pain, but if you are patient it is not a big deal.

Two people make the job easier: the smaller on his back doing the work, while the other positions lights and provides tools. Remove bottom panel. Loosen and slide the two small spring clips back from fittings. Locate (out of sight in the back) and loosen the screw-type tensioner on large, upper clamp. Remove old hose and position clamps on new hose. Seat all hose fittings securely and reposition spring clamps. A bit of soapy water for lubrication can help. Tighten down screw tensioner on large clamp. Test by pouring bucket of water into washer.

It. Was awasome the part fit great and it was even deliverd sooner than expected thank you

I followed the steps in the You Tube video on this topic. Search for "washing machine repair - replacing the drive pulley" in your favorite search engine. The video is very well done and it is a simple fix. Before I put on the new drive pulley and nut, I vacuumed up and then wiped down the black dust around the drive pulley shaft (as well as on the inside floor of the washer) to make sure the drive pulley slid onto the shaft using the hand banging method described in the video (dust was likely from the belt due to the excessive movement of the drive pulley). While it may be possible to tighten the nut without a torque wrench, I personally had trouble judging the appropriate 44 ft lbs of torque without it (i.e. my snug required more than a quarter turn per the optional instructions). The torque wrench provided me with the assurance that I installed the drive pulley correctly.Two of my shocks were leaking slightly so I assumed that was the primary issue and replaced all 4 at quite a hefty cost. It helped with the noise but not significantly. If you do have a loud noise during the spin cycle, do yourself a favor and check the play in the drive pulley and look for the black dust before you diagnose the problem to be something else. The online diagnostic tool showed the drive pulley as being the highest probability of being the issue so, sadly, I have no excuses...

If the washer basket "crashes" or thumps while rotating, the spider must be replaced. I have found that, although difficult, the spider mounting bolts can be removed without sheering if starting to unscrew until it jams then hit the bolt once with a hammer and try again to unscrew. It will give just a little and keep repeating the process until the bolt is completely out. I have tried heating with a torch, chisel tapping and re-tapping the threads after drilling out the bolt but the method I described is the most successful. After removal I bring the spider to a local powder coating person for a permanent coating of preservation. This site provides the least expensive new spiders or spider basket assemblies available. E-Bay provides used items also.

removed 5 screws, unscrew two more screws, remove the houses and disconnect the wires remove the watter valve.

Part came quickly, was exactly what I needed, 2 minutes later, washing clothes again.

Disassembled washer to get access to power board, removed both power and start/pause switches and replaced them with new ones. Reassembled washer. Works well. The most difficult part of appliance
maintenance is learning how to disassemble the machine. Videos of the process are very helpful.

Disassembled the washer from the top down more or less. Started with top cover, then control panel then door assembly. After that removed all connections to drum. Removed belt, pulley, and then counterweights. Wires are all on harness with plugs, I took pics as I went for reference as to where they belong. The motor was left plugged in and slides out of the mount at the bottom of the tub after removing one bolt. To remove the door latch assembly, remove the front tub seal first then you can easily access it after you unscrew it. The shocks are a quarter turn release type mechanism. I broke two going back together after trying to lock them into place. Not sure why, maybe age of part had something to do with it, and they are hard to turn as well.

Flipped washer on side
Did repair from bottom
Really easy repair