W156W Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

Unscrewed and pulled the door off and then took the three layers of the door apart in order to clean off the burned-on goop and remove the old and insert the new seal. The last screw was rusted in and the drill stripped it so that it was impossible to remove. I levered the remaining two layers apart, holding them open with screw drivers, and inserted the new seal. Had to be careful with the shaping of the metal core of the seal and the distribution of the sealing fabric. Phew! I saved the screws from each layer separately by taping them to the counter in the order of removal. This made reassembly easier. Getting the door back on was a bit difficult and I needed another pair of hands to help me.

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.

1. Removed screws and detached push on cannectors
2. Removed old element
3. Pushed eclectrial connectors onto new element and attached new element to oven with screws.

First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..

Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.

1.remove the trim around the door (8 screws)
2.remove over glass panel (part with the handle)
Caution; the springs on the door are exactly set for the weight of the door. When we removed the outer glass panel, I almost killed my wife when the door slammed shut.
3.Remove inner metal cover (6-8 screws).some of these screws were baked pretty tight so I used vise grips on their little heads to convince them to get turning.
4. To get the door window out you must also remove the inner enamel baked cover, held on by 5-6 screws from the back. This is also the pieces which holds the door seal in place, so it is a good time to change that as well.
5. After cleaning up all the broken glass from the old window, the new window slides right in - perfect fit!
Reverse the steps to put it all back together.

From the time the glass broke until it was completely repaired took only six days! Pretty amazing for a twenty year old oven.

Older model oven with model number worn off. Photo with the 1" grid made it possible for me to find the right size part.

You only need a phillips head screwdriver to install this seal, but it is a bit tricky to line up the new seal and the fiberglass insulation inside the door, so take your time and make sure everything lines up and is tucked in before tightening the screws. Probably easier to do with 2 people (especially getting the door back on the spring loaded hinges) but I was able to do it solo without too much difficulty.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

I dissasembled the entire door..lots of screws and watch you dont drop the glass pieces...also keep them in order so you dont get confused on what goes where. I cleaned everything nicely and installed the new seal and everything went together perfectly and looks and works like new. I recieved my part by mail very quickly and the price was MUCH better than my local repair shop.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires to remove the old sensor. Went on line to find out where to order it from. Ordered it, It was on back order but was only about 1 week to receive. Reversed the procedure. WA LA. It works great.