W136W Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Unscrewed and pulled the door off and then took the three layers of the door apart in order to clean off the burned-on goop and remove the old and insert the new seal. The last screw was rusted in and the drill stripped it so that it was impossible to remove. I levered the remaining two layers apart, holding them open with screw drivers, and inserted the new seal. Had to be careful with the shaping of the metal core of the seal and the distribution of the sealing fabric. Phew! I saved the screws from each layer separately by taping them to the counter in the order of removal. This made reassembly easier. Getting the door back on was a bit difficult and I needed another pair of hands to help me.

1.remove the trim around the door (8 screws)
2.remove over glass panel (part with the handle)
Caution; the springs on the door are exactly set for the weight of the door. When we removed the outer glass panel, I almost killed my wife when the door slammed shut.
3.Remove inner metal cover (6-8 screws).some of these screws were baked pretty tight so I used vise grips on their little heads to convince them to get turning.
4. To get the door window out you must also remove the inner enamel baked cover, held on by 5-6 screws from the back. This is also the pieces which holds the door seal in place, so it is a good time to change that as well.
5. After cleaning up all the broken glass from the old window, the new window slides right in - perfect fit!
Reverse the steps to put it all back together.

From the time the glass broke until it was completely repaired took only six days! Pretty amazing for a twenty year old oven.

Older model oven with model number worn off. Photo with the 1" grid made it possible for me to find the right size part.

You only need a phillips head screwdriver to install this seal, but it is a bit tricky to line up the new seal and the fiberglass insulation inside the door, so take your time and make sure everything lines up and is tucked in before tightening the screws. Probably easier to do with 2 people (especially getting the door back on the spring loaded hinges) but I was able to do it solo without too much difficulty.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

I dissasembled the entire door..lots of screws and watch you dont drop the glass pieces...also keep them in order so you dont get confused on what goes where. I cleaned everything nicely and installed the new seal and everything went together perfectly and looks and works like new. I recieved my part by mail very quickly and the price was MUCH better than my local repair shop.

I removed three screws, pulled the element out from the rear wall, unplugged the electrical connections, reversed these steps in installing the new element. "A Piece Of Cake!"

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

turned off electricity at the circuit breaker.Pulled stove out and looked at the way the control center was attached to the rest of the stove. Removed the knobs and 4 screws and the complete panel could be removed (or pulled out from the oven-wires are still all attached). Then checked with an electric meter to insure the power was off to all the wires. The clock is a self contained unit and all I had to do was to remove 4 screws holding a face plate, replace the unit and reverse the procedure. Only problem I had was getting the screws back into the face plate (I was only able to get 2 threaded-but that will hold for the life of the stove) and put it alll back together. It works wonderfully.

I had a repair company on the phone who said that the service call would be $185 and if I was right about the clock being the problem, that would cost another $345 for the clock and $85 for the return service call to install. I ordered the part from PartSelect .com on Sunday, had it by Thursday and installed that night. My cost was $195 vs approx $600. Why would you do anything else?

Had to disassemble the top of the stove and the control panel on the front. I took digital pictures as I disassembled so I could refer to them when putting the stove back together, especially when disconnecting wiring. It took about 3 hours, but most of that time was spent thoroughly cleaning 16 years of baked on grease from places that are normally unaccessible. The new latch works great - the wife is happy!

Removed 4 screws under the top unit that holds the stove control knobs. Open oven door for better view. Tilt whole unit (width of stove) up and out of top flange. Remove knobs for timer and the two control knobs (that operate the range burners) nearest the clock. Take out the screws by these knobs, 2 per knob and then you can get the frame that holds clock unit out. Make a drawing of wires to replace on timer unit or as I un plugged one I hooked it up to the new unit. Make sure you have turned off range at your fuse box before working on stove. Works good as new now, I assume it was hit by lighting that also made me replace our garage door opener.

removed 4 screws holding entire face plate. Rolled face plate up on top of stove and left all wires attached (many). removed 4 screws adjacent to clock assy. Removed control knob just on either side of clock assy and removed control screws (2 on each). removed wires attached to clock assy and transferred new assy. Re-assembled and set clock time.

First I verified that the breaker was OFF!

We have a build-in Jenn-Air oven. After finding the four screws that held the oven into the enclosure, sliding the oven out was pretty easy since my wife helped me. We used a nut drive to remove the 18+ screws holding the top on the oven.

Using the Internet we entered the switch part number. The number on the switch did NOT help finding the switch. We used the model number and with the exploded drawing on the PartSelect.com web site it was fairly easy to identify the switch.

I ordered the switch and specified two day delivery. This was on a Saturday. The switch arrived on Tuesday.

We had to remove the front glass plate to get to the screws holding the switch. I drew a diagram of the switch with the wire colors/numbers. I left the wires on the old switch. I removed the old switch with the wires still attached then installed the new switch. I moved the wires one by one. Then I verified the correct connections based on my drawing.

We re-installed the 18+ screws and slid the oven back into place. Turn on the breaker and baked a pie.

Serviceman took out broken glass by removing door and separating front of door from back of door. He carefully removed all broken glass Then replaced with new glass and fastened door together . He did repair in 20 minutes. Oven is like new. Thank you very much for still stocking this part that allows me to keep my oven repaired.

Opened the oven door and locked the spring hinges in the opened position with two 10p nails. Removed the oven door. I dismantled the component parts of the door. I then removed and replaced the broken glass unit,reassembled the door, slid the door onto the hinges, tightened two screws to lock the door in place, removed the 10p nails, closed the door----- and that was it. Less than one hour. The job was accomplished using only a Phillips screwdriver.

Using exploded view and previous customers' comments, I disassembled the door. It was primarily a matter of finding all the screws. I recommend taking the door off first (I didn't), but watch your fingers. The hinges have very, very strong springs and you can hurt your or your helper's fingers if you're not prepared. The hardest part was keeping all the insulation in place while your're installing the assembly. I also replaced the gasket. That takes four hands, two to hold the gasket in place and two to reinstall the window assembly. To put the door back on the hinges, I pulled them out from the door at a 45-degree angle (takes some effort), put screwdrivers through holes in the hinges, and guided (with help) the door back on.