VLSR1090G0WW Hotpoint Washer - Instructions

Lay the washer on its side, unscrew three screw to loose the rotor, put the belt and screw the rotor back.

With the instructions found online, this was a quick easy repair. I used youtube to have video to show the method. Used rope to pull up agitator, used wrench to loosen bolt and then put back together. Part was delivered really fast, I recommend Partselect.com for the parts you need!

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I watched the video you provided and I could't believe how simple it was. I'm 67 yrs old and I just followed the video instructions.

Was very easy to remove and replace. The instructional video let me know what to expect

Unit unplugged. Next day delivery, saved plastic clip and two screws from hose connect to washer , removed leaking hose ,replaced with new hose fully pushed into unit with plastic clip already in place on new hose. Tightened screws on plastic holding clip on new hose. Done complete job in 5 minutes.

I was frantically trying to find a cheap washer to replace the one that "broke". Fortunately, my son's roommate is a maintenance technician. He diagnosed the problem immediately. I googled the issue, found the part, ordered it and received delivery of the part in 3 days. It took all of 5 minutes to replace the part and reassemble the washer. Now on to the 15 loads of laundry that have been stacking up!

We bought this used Hotpoint that was probably one of the original machine created back in the stone-age, it's so old. We've had it 10 months, and it's always had this... burnt rubber stink to it... then one day, it stopped agitating and sounded like a metal bucket of bolts being shaken. We're on a military income with five kids, and the idea of buying a new washer was just... heartbreaking. On a whim, having fixed a washer once before, we opened the front up and painstakingly pulled every last rubber fiber from what used to be the belt. Ordered the part. It shipped quick, arrived quick, and in under a week we were back in business. Someone else had mentioned the needing 1/4" socket, and I was glad I remembered that, because it made is SO much easier.

had to put timer in and it was held by one screw and the timer knob was use a push on part with a clip that you had to use the needle nose for. And that was it all done and seems to run better than it did before.

This job did not take much longer than 15 minutes if that.1st take the cord or twine and loop it under 2 paddles of the agitator.( there is a small groove under each of the paddles that has enough space to put the cord in) Pull up on the cord to remove the agitator. 2nd. Under the agitator is a bolt that secures the agitator coupling. Remove that bolt. Keep bolt(you may want to replace this bolt if rusted and worn. Mine was still ok so I reused it.) 3rd pull up on Agitator coupling to remove. Teeth were worn on Coupling, So discard. 4th Insert new coupling, replace bolt to secure coupling. finally slide agitator back over coupling till locks back in place. ....Done.

DISCONNECT POWER----1.- No pump sound when energized but I know it energized as the coil became a magnet. 2.- You need a drain pan to catch the water from the lower tub when the drain hose is disconnected from the pump. 3.- Water pump or channel lock pliers needed to remove the spring clamps on inlet and outlet from pump. 4.- Remove the 2 hold down bolts and the plug in power connection and the pump comes out very easily. 5.- On my pump I found a plastic tie wrap lodged in the pump impeller vanes-- this caused the pump either not to work at all or cause a cavitation effect caused the water in the tub not to drain completely. 6.- Since I had already purchased the new pump I installed the new pump and cleaned the old one to keep as a spare-- probably never going to need it though.7.- On the large diameter drain hose ( pump inlet ) I decided to use a auto hose clamp instead of the original spring clamp because the area to work on this pump is very cramped and getting the original spring clamp back on was very difficult. The hose clamp made it very easy and the seal was just fine. 8.- The new pump functions perfectly- PARTS SELECT delivered a quality OEM product and I am extremely satisfied with their normal delivery which was 2 days because the warehouse was only 150 miles from me.

My washing machine began smoking one day while on spin cycle. I freaked out and turned every breaker off on the electric panel since I, apparently, forgot how to read during this episode. Once the smoke cleared and my brain power returned I removed the front panel of the machine. After a quick look I decided I saw nothing wrong that I could fix. 24 hours later my brain had returned to normal functioning capacity so I decided to turn the power back on to the washer and see what happened. It was then that I noticed the smoke coming from a black cylinder on the front of the washer. I googled my washer and the VERY helpful diagrams from partselect.com came up showing me this was the capacitor. Since as mentioned previously my brain was now functional again I was able to determine this would be an easy fix, ordered the part, got it 24 hours later (!!!!!) with no special shipping, and installed it in 5 minutes. I feel smart today! Thanks Partselect.com!

Gently turned washer over onto its front. Removed bottom metal panel (3 or 4 screws on each side). Removed old belt. Installed new belt. NOTE: The new belt is a tight and perfect fit, therefore it will not want fit on to both pulleys/ rotating discs. I have found the best method is to start the belt on the disc that drives the belt. Then place as much of the belt over the disc that sits below the washing machine drum as is possible(the spinning part)and then turn the belt by hand and the belt should pop on to the disc. If the belt goes on easily you may have the wrong belt as the belt must be tight to achieve the traction necessary for the washing machine to spin. HOPE THIS HELPS!! A screwdriver may be handy in helping to pry on the belt. Good look.

uplug power--with 1/4 inch nut driver remove 3 screws on back of washer- i used leather gloves to remove plastic water tube from level switch"you could get cut on sharp metal" unplug wires from switch-turn switch counter clockwise to remove--replace in reverse order---very easy, no problem for me.

After the GE Washer went dead last week Tuesday while my spouse was doing laundry, I I took it to the back yard just to examine the inside from beneath before going to find a new one that evening.
While on its back I notice that the motor still worked but it was very weak. Taking the belt off it went a little faster but weak. Then I remembered that there was supposed to be an electrical part that sends or allows current to go to the motor, but didn't know the name nor what it should look like.
I started my search and found this cylindrical electric part that had a scar on the outside and a hardened mass protruding from the inside. Since the wires to and from the part was the same color, I marked one terminal, then took pictures of the position and wiring of the part I identified as the problem, then took it out of the machine.
At this point, I went to the car, sat inside, started the car, and was about to leave to find a washing machine, then I thought of the Internet. I went on the Internet, found a store that sells GE washing machines parts, identified the part to be the capacitor. I ordered the part late that evening, received it Thursday afternoon, installed and reassembled the machine immediately, and today is the eight day since the fix and as I am writing, Thursday, August 15, 2013, the machine is doing my laundry. The diagrams made it very easy to identify the name of the part, and since I am mechanically inclined, getting the old part out and installing the new part was very easy. ~~ Vasco