TUD4700MU0 Estate Dishwasher - Instructions

Installed new door seal. Dishwasher still leaked. Googled the model number and then cleaned the filter at the bottom of the dishwasher, still leaked.
Verified that manifold bearing was not work. It was OK.
Found note that a plugged vent might cause leaking door. Very counterintuitive. Pried off air vent cover. Vent was thouroughly plugged with calcium deposts from steam. Cleaned these out.
Dishwasher no longer leaks.

Photograph or diagram how the wires connect to the switches before taking out the old assembly. I could have salvaged switches from the old assembly by pulling out the white pins (and avoided buying the new switch kit). There's only one way the pieces go back together, so the wire connections are the only point that required special care and attention.

The first thing I did was to investigate. I needed to find where the leak was coming from. It was leaking from just above tne door front panel, directly underneath the control panel buttons. I opened the dishwasher door, and decided to remove the door screen vent. I was covered with some offwhite fiberous, or filter like material. I thought perhaps the filter had broken down, and I ordered a new screen. When it arrived, and, although I had expected to receive a new filter with the plastic door screen, I didn't. There wasn't one to be ordered. I looked at the screen again. My problem was, that although I had considered that the substance I had thought was a filter, was instead build up of detergent, and other particals. That idea didn't seem to make sense. I didn't think it was possible for that stuff to get to the door screen. I thought, it was too far away from the dispenser and food particles. As it turned out, the buildup was, in fact, the problem. I properly cleaned the door vent, which was then fine, and I put it back into the door. There were no more leaks, that was it, and the problem was solved. As a last note however, unfortunatley, I have to return the new door vent screen that I ordered. I enjoyed solving the problem, and you all helped alot. Let's do it again sometime.

I removed the old gasket, installed the new one which took about 20 seconds.Tested the unit, water was still dripping, but in a different fashion.As per a previous poster's instructions I removed the vent cover. (Located inside the dishwasher up high.)I cleaned out the calcium deposits with hot water and a sacraficial toothbrush. "Ta-Da!" Everything is now groovy!Thank you so very much for your excellent service. Your site was easy to use and your shipping was "lightning fast!" Also, the advice you sent me was invaluable. I thank you, my wife thanks you and my trained lobster thanks you too! :)

First, examine very carefully how the old spring relates to the detergent release box lid. Note that the top of the spring has a square-end upside down "U" . This rests on a small ledge on the detergent box. Also note that on either end of the spring is a straight extension of the spring wire. These two "legs" must rest on the inside of the edge of the detergent box. Second, use a flat blade screw driver to pry the LID hinge pin from the mounting "posts. Remove the pin, first noting the position of the spring. Reassemble the spring on the hinge pin in reverse order. Then snap the lid onto the spring using the two mounting "posts". NOTE: I used a very fine needle nose pliers to move the two spring "legs" behind the detergent box edge after I had mounted the lid. Flip the lid down to test if the spring pressure on the lid can be felt. Harold Kitzmann, Fishersville VA

This repair was very simple. I opened the door of the dishwasher then pulled the old rubber seal (gasket) out; I checked the old gasket to with the new one to ensure the new one was correct then installed the new one. There are two small rubber pieces located in mounting slots below the door gasket that slide out; I slide the old ones out and slide the new ones in. No tools required.
The thing that made the whole job easier was ordering the parts from Parts Select; I couldn't find exactly what I needed on the Whirlpool website but I found exactly what I needed on the Parts Select website and the parts were a perfect match.

After determining that the leak was coming basically from the motor shaft I googled until I thought I could handle it, took it apart to confirm I could get it apart (I thought it might be too stuck and I might need the whole motor thing) and then ordered the kit.

I don't think this could be done with the dishwasher in place, so I turned the water off to the unit and unplugged it. I had previously removed the front bottom cover plates (4 screws). I opened the front, removed the lower dish rack and unscrewed it from the bottom side of the counter, disconnected the water supply and drain line, then wiggled it out being careful of the insulation sheets, hoses, etc. Note, water drains everywhere. I had some baking pans to contain and paper towels to wipe but still, be safe / prepared.

I disconnected everything from the motor / impeller housing area, then went inside the unit and loosened the lock ring thing around the base of whatever you call the spinning arm / sprayer, it took a little effort, might be easier to try this when it is still mounted to the counter. After that main ring was removed the housing with the motor and everything just wiggled free.

I unscrewed the motor's 3 Torx screws, and then the unscrewed the plastic "X" at the end opposite the motor, the brass weight pulls straight off and the impeller is supposed to come off too. Mine was stuck like many I read about. I drilled a hole in the end of the plastic impeller and drove the motor shaft out with a punch and hammer, it worked pretty slick. Then I carefully pried out the last seal and stopped for a cold beverage, major success.

I carefully pushed the new seal into the housing, reattached the motor to the housing, pushed on the other new seals, the impeller, the new brass weight in the same order the old ones were, and screwed on the "X" on the end as snug as I could. Then I carefully reattached the motor and housing to the bottom of the dishwasher, ensuring good solid seals and tightening that big ring again from the inside as snug as I could get it, carefully hooked everything on the bottom back up basically in the reverse of disassembly, put the unit back under the counter, plugged it in, turned the water back on to it, loaded it and tested it. I was fortunate enough to not have it leak anywhere, after 3 or 4 loads I reattached the bottom trim pieces and checked this off my list.
Also, would love to mention that your site is great, the parts were priced attractively, they arrived very quickly and were a snap to install.

Thanks for saving me a ton of money / headaches!

Andy

The only piece that may be a little difficult to remove here without a tool is the 'Track Stop'. This piece has a couple of clip-like pieces that need to be depressed in order to remove it. A flathead screw driver will do the trick. Once this piece is out and you have popped the Mount off of the Rack, you simply roll the piece out of the track, roll the new one in and snap the new Mount in place, replacing the Track Stop when you are done. VERY EASY!

I took off the bottom 2 plates covering the bottom of the dishwasher. I shut off the power to the unit.There are 2 insulated sleeves with a clamped wire attached to each side of the heater core. I removed the 2 wires and unscrewed the sleeves and lifted out the old heater coil, to install I reversed the process. I found this repair to be a piece of cake, and of course my dishwasher worked like a new one saving me at least $400.00 for a new dishwasher, plus the pain of taking out the old unit and installing the new dishwasher. Thanks for your wide selection of repair parts.

Removed the lower panels from beneath the dishwasher door. 4 screws. Turned off the water.

Removed one screw holding the inlet valve to the side rail of the dishwasher. It was attached to the hot water line and then the washer water input line. Removed the electrical connector..Pull straight off, and use a pair of pliers to open the squeeze clamp on the washer hose. The hot water supply hose has a brass fitting to loosen and remove.

Replaced the inlet valve, reconnected the electrical and also replaced the hot water line from under the sink to the washer. Used a new braided 5' hose with fittings. Used teflon tape on the screws and did not over tighten the brass fittings.

Turned on the hot water supply and checked for leaks. Operated the washer and checked for leaks. Replaced the lower covers.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I thought that the valve inlet was defective. Ordered the replacement, got it in one day, replaced the part...
and it worked perfectly. Saved big $$ in a service call. Found everything I needed online.

Broken latch on dishwasher prevented operation
Door Latch Bolt PS11741367 replacement instruction.

There are no instructions known to mankind on this part, however I did manage said replacement through determination and beer. First I looked it up on the internet. All kind of results, except for the model I was working on. Called, very nice woman directed me to yet another YouTube presentation for another model. As this was no help, I chose to not call her back. Not her fault.
So, I did what every instruction for the other models called for, disconnect the power. Seemed like a good idea if everyone suggested it. After that, remove the inner door by removing the screws. At this point I would like to mention that I also ordered and paid for what I thought would be a set of inner door screws to replace the old and weathered ones. However, they sent me one screw.
Who in their right mind would pay $5.10 for ONE SCREW? Well, your looking right at him. I felt like I sold the family cow for a magic bean, but that’s another story.
So, without instructions, I compared the part I ordered with the one installed in the door. It matched up in many ways, with exception for the fact I would not budge from it’s position, wiggle yes, remove no. I stared at it for 10 minutes with no further progress. Something has to give. I decided to remove the cover of the electronics with the hopes and optimism of a child. It also did not want to be removed. Back to YouTube and the computer. Nothing. I stared at it for another 10 minutes. Drank a beer, and started to “horse” it off, somehow it became ajar, and was finally removed. Upon examination of the old door latch bolt, I noticed that it was attached to the electronic mass by 4 wires. I used my phone camera to record which went where with false hopes that the repair was in reach. It was either me or the dishwasher. At this point, good money was on the dishwasher.
After recording and removal of said wires, I took the entire door latch and whatever the other piece was, to a table for further study, and another beer. After said study and beer, I remembered looking at other parts, one came to mind, a small teflon rod. As I look upon the part I knew about, I noticed it was adhering to the alien part with wires by 2 small teflon rods. I found a small nail, and pushed them out of the part, and they final separated. I replaced the old part with the new one and then reversed all steps and procedures, attached wires, reattached electronic cover, screwed down the inner door, shut main door, and started a dish cycle. Works perfectly. You may ask about the expensive screw. I took it to a local jeweler, who found nothing remarkable about it. As there must be SOMETHING about it that makes it valuable, so I had it mounted and framed in a nice display case for friends and family to treasure for years to come. A real conversation piece, and one more thing to dust.

Forum was not too helpful diagonsing problem.
Decided to take apart to clean and found all blades broke off impeller.

Use shop vac to suck out water.
Remove agitator inside unit.
Remove dishwasher from wall tip down on door.
Remove pump.
unscrew housing to find impellor.
Carefully put on new impeller.
Clean sealing sufaces,
Reinstall.
Some broken impeller blades were found in agitator.

I disasembled the inner door and replaced the door switches with new ones.