This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer ...
This part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. If you are noticing temperature issues with your refrigerator or freezer,...
This refrigerator ice maker fill cup dispenses the water into the ice cube mold during the fill cycle. Replacing the water fill cup is a possible solution if you notice that the ice maker is leaking, ...
This fresh food door gasket is white and made of rubber. It measures approximately thirty-one and a half inches wide by forty-one and a half inches long.
This part releases water from the supply line when it's activated. This single outlet water valve is intended for use with some ice makers and refrigerators.
The icemaker shut off arm, used in a refrigerator, gives the icemaker a signal to stop making ice once the bin has a reached a certain limit. This helps monitor ice production. If your icemaker is not...
The ice bucket in your freezer catches and holds the ice when it is released by the icemaker. If your ice bucket is cracked or damaged, you may need to replace it to prevent a potential leak. This par...
$121.29
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Questions And Answers for TR21V2W
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Sandra
June 16, 2021
How do I remove the back panel in the freezer to access the drain? Trying to defrost clogged/frozen drain tubing that is causing water to accumulate in the bottom of the refrigerator compartment. Screws have been removed but I can't remove the panel.
For model number TR21V2W
Hello Sandra, Thank you for the great question. To remove the back panel in the Freezer, you will first need to remove the Light Cover to expose the screws that hold the Light fixture housing in place. Pull down on the housing to remove. There is wires so be carful not to pull anything out of place. Once the housing it removed, it will allow you to now remove the back panel. We hope this helps!
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Sandra
June 16, 2021
Thank you for your reply to my previous question regarding removal of the back freezer panel. Once the light fixture housing is loose, what is the procedure for removing the air duct that held the light fixture housing in order to be able to remove the back panel? Are there tabs or clips holding the duct? Is there a special place on the duct to squeeze or place pressure to prevent cracking (especially near the front where the freezer light switch is)?
For model number TR21V2W
Hello Sandra, Thank you for the question. Once all the screws are removed, you should be able to use a flat tool like a putty knife to slide under the bottom of the panel and pull outwards towards you from the bottom first. The only tab is at the top and it will slip down out of its slot once the bottle on the panel is slid out. We hope this helps!
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David
July 12, 2021
If the lights for both my refrigerator and freezer both are out, the refrigerator and freezer are otherwise working perfectly. Do both the freezer and refrigerator door switches need to be replaced to most likely remedy this problem (bulbs are good)? Please advise.
For model number TR21V2W
Hello David, Thank you for the question. If both the Freezer and Fridge lights have gone out at the same time, it would suggest a defective Light switch or bulbs. We hope this helps!
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release. Unplug appliance. Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge. Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker. Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment. Tricky part was determin
... Read moreing what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment. Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall. Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer. Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit. Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable. A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable. Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in. It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient. Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
My ice maker has been shedding its non-stick coating for over a year. Within the last month of so, it started pouring water into the ice bucket below, turning it into a solid mass of ice. So I purchased a new ice maker assembly. I encountered two problems not mentioned in the 21 or so do-it-yourselfer repair stories that precede this on
... Read moree. First problem: one of the three screws that hold the ice maker to the refrigerator wall is hidden behind the large (black) end of the ice maker and is difficult to access. Before trying to replace the ice maker, make sure you have the physical dexterity to remove that screw. Second problem: it is not apparent how to remove the wire harness that plugs into the ice maker assembly. BEFORE you can remove the wire harness, you MUST remove the large white cap that covers the black end of the ice maker assembly and then push in a retaining tab to release the wire harness. If you don't do this, the wire harness will not release. Other than those two problems, it was relatively easy to remove three screws, unplug the wire harness, transfer three small, metal parts from the old ice maker to the new, plug in the new wire harness, mount the ice maker assembly so that the water tube is in the proper position, and then re-install the three screws. The ice maker works fine now. (P.S. I was told by an expert that the real problem might be a malfunctioning fill valve. I would have replaced the fill valve if replacing the ice maker assembly had not fixed the problem.)
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing
... Read morethe front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.
