Models > TDG546RBW0 > Instructions

TDG546RBW0 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for TDG546RBW0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the TDG546RBW0
46-60 of 370
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Bearing wore out in original idler pulley

  • Customer: Paul from Placerville, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed rear inspection plate, removed pulley spring and one hex bolt, replaced in reverse order. Very simple removal and install for this. Glad to see that Part Select still had parts for this 22 year old drier.

My igniter seemed to be bad, but I really didn't know for sure. After asking advice from one of the subscribers at partselect, I decided to give the repair a try.

  • Customer: randall from Athens, TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The appliance is gas, which made me a little nervous. However, knowing that I had the gas off, I carefully began disassembly. The burner unit is a very simple set up and within a few minutes I had the entire assembly out and noticed that in fact the igniter was broken. I ordered a new one from partselect.com and it was delivered in 2 days! The worst part of the assembly was when I accidentally bumped the new igniter against the underside of the dryer and broke the brand new one!!!..So, I ordered a second igniter and 2 days later installed it in about 30 minutes.

Lound noise inside dryer

  • Customer: Joseph from little Egg Harbour, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.

Rust Stains on clothes in dryer

  • Customer: Ryan from Jeffersonville, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. Slid putty knife under each side of front of dryer to release lid.
2. Removed 2 screws from front of drum to release door assembly.
3. Removed wires from door switch.
3. Cleaned lint out of inside of dryer.
4. Removed old felt seals, upper & lower.
5. Removed old glue with goof off type remover.
6. Glued new seals on & held then in place with clothes pins. (there was enough glue in the tube that came with the upper glide for both seals)
7. Put dryer back together.
**Ensure you verify the correct felt seal pieces with the model number of your dryer, usually on inside of door.

Needed new lint screen for dryer

  • Customer: Harriett from Leesburg, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 2 screws and dropped new screen holder in with lint screen in it and replaced screws. Really easy

dryer lint screen rplacement

  • Customer: Frank from Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
removed two screws - replaced lint screen replacement, TIME TO REPLACE UNIT - ONE MINUTE. What made this project a snap was the pictures and graphs( parts replace) uses to ensure you are ordering the exact screen .

Intermittent squealing noise

  • Customer: Peter from Middletown, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I've replaced the rear plastic bearing on this dryer twice, so I am familiar with taking the unit apart. After replacing the bearing in December, the machine still made noise (which had been masked by how loud the bearing was). The belt didn't look so great and it's 13 years old, so I ordered one and a new idler pulley assembly.

First, I disconnected the power and pulled it out for access. Using a large blade screwdriver, popped the cover open from the two clips in front. Be sure to support the top cover when you open it on the tabs or they will bend - I propped it against the wall. I disconnected the two wires that go to the door switch, and then removed the two screws that hold the front panel and door in place and lifted/opened that and removed the front panel and set it aside.

Next, I removed the back access grill (2 screws) and popped the belt off the idler by relieving the tension on the belt. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the idler pivot bolt and idler arm assembly. I installed the new idler arm assembly in its place and reattached the spring.

Moving to the front of the dryer, I lifted the drum off the blower housing on which it was resting and took off the belt through the front of the dryer. I then replaced the belt in reverse. Back through the access panel on the rear, I put the new belt on the motor and idler.

Be sure to check that there are no flips in the belt. I rotate the drum by hand a couple of revolutions to be certain.

I then reinstalled the front cover and door, reconnected the door switch, replaced the access panel and put the cover back down, popping the clips into place.

Put the dryer back in place, reconnected the exhaust and plugged it in. Voila - quiet dryer.

As an aside, I also took the time to clean the lint out of the blower and exhaust with a vacuum cleaner hose.

Gas dryer wouldn't stay hot.

  • Customer: David from Petaluma, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I definitely would not have tried to do this had it not been for the other testimonials written here. But it sounded so easy, I had to just try it (the repair man estimated that with parts and labor, we would be looking at somewhere between $250 and $300!).

The repair itself took less than 15 min, but I spend a good deal of time looking around the garage for a few screwdrivers and my socket set (me and tools don't meet too often). I could simply pry up the top cover on the dryer with my hands, then got it all the way up after removing two screws from the lint trap and undoing this really annoying wire connector thing. From there the front panel lifted off. To remove the drum, just had to release the tensonier on the belt, and it came right out. From this point it was really obvious where the replacement parts would be going. A few screws later, and I could swap the parts, and put humpty dumpty back together again.

It works!!!

Dryer making horrible squeaking sound when running

  • Customer: SHARON from SUMMERVILLE, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

dryer door wouldnt close

  • Customer: karen from aurora, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!

Well we ordered one and that didn't fit so had to return then we ordered the 2nd one and that worked but really only need the lint screen not the whole frame so it was to expensive for what you need why not sell it separate?

  • Customer: Delaine from Fort Atkinson, WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
put it in the lint screen spot.

The old drum seal top had torn off.

  • Customer: jeffrey from round lake heights, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the drayer top and then removed the front panel.
Removed the bottom seal from the acr as it was warn.
Carefully scarped off the remaining bits of felt from the arc.
Applied the supplied adhesive to the top half of the cleaned arc.
Placed the seal and held in place with small spring clamps.
Let it dry for an hour, then I repeated the process with the bottom seal.
I let it dry over night, overkill probably but I wanted it to stay.
Replaced the front with new seal and closed up the top.
It has been working well since. Thanks for stocking parts that help out homeowner's on tight budgets.

The lint screen had tears on it which could cause a serious problem, possibly a fire.

  • Customer: Joyce from North Dighton, MA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I unscrewed the old the lint screen FRAME and easily removed it, replacing it with the new one. The new lint -- SCREEN -- just needed to be squeezed here and there, and molded into a better shape. The screen itself, arrived flattened on the bottom, causing it to be too wide and difficult to remove from the frame. I easily molded it with my hands into the shape of the previous one and it slipped right into place. ( Shaped like an oval, flexible sack.) VERY easy!

screen fell out of lint screan frame

  • Customer: steve from scottsville, KY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
remove 2 screws,pull frame out. put new in. tighten 2 screws. put lint screen in

Small burn marks on light clothing

  • Customer: Gordon from Canton, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First I unpluged the machine, then opened the top with a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws inside, unpluged the door sensor. (makes it stop when opened) Removed old gasket, cleaned with emery cloth, cleaned the residue and applied the glue provided. Waited about 1 min. and applied the new gasket leaving about 1/8'' of it hanging over the door facing the drum.
All Instructions for the TDG546RBW0
46-60 of 370