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Models > TDG546RBW0 > Instructions

TDG546RBW0 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for TDG546RBW0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the TDG546RBW0
46-60 of 370
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dryer door wouldnt close

  • Customer: karen from aurora, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!

Needed new lint screen for dryer

  • Customer: Harriett from Leesburg, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 2 screws and dropped new screen holder in with lint screen in it and replaced screws. Really easy

Rust Stains on clothes in dryer

  • Customer: Ryan from Jeffersonville, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. Slid putty knife under each side of front of dryer to release lid.
2. Removed 2 screws from front of drum to release door assembly.
3. Removed wires from door switch.
3. Cleaned lint out of inside of dryer.
4. Removed old felt seals, upper & lower.
5. Removed old glue with goof off type remover.
6. Glued new seals on & held then in place with clothes pins. (there was enough glue in the tube that came with the upper glide for both seals)
7. Put dryer back together.
**Ensure you verify the correct felt seal pieces with the model number of your dryer, usually on inside of door.

heat would initially come on then go off or sometimes not come on at all.

  • Customer: Vincent from Fairfield, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. unpluged the dryer and turned off the gas.
2. pulled dryer out so i'd have ample room to work on it.
3. used large flat blade screwdriver in the front between the top lid and dryer face to gently pop-up the lid.
4. removed 4 screws from inside, that hold the face to the main box leaving the wires all intact.
Found the coils on the lower left, held in place by two screws and plate.
5. took a good look at thier orientation before unpluging old and installing new, I recommend one at a time.
6. Vacuumm any exceess lint and check foam seal between lint trap and exhuast duc, the glue came undone on mine causing extra lint dust that is potentially flamable.
6. screw dryer front back on to main box, make sure to check wiring harness and that all electrical blade connectors are still pluged in to their componants.
7. At this point plug in, turn on gas and do a test run.
8.if everything checks out good then lower top make sure flexable exhuast hose is still connected on hte back of the dryer.
9. Tell your wife or girlfriend or husband or boy friend they can now finish your laundry :)

Not enough heat

  • Customer: John from Bergenfield, NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Checked PartSelect online for people with a. similar problem. Found most common problem was the coils.
I opened the top, removed the two screws holding the front panel, unclipped the wiring harness from the machine to the door and removed/cut the plastic wire tie and front came off easily. I put the front piece to the side after changing the light bulb. I cleaned out a large amount of lint and found the coils on the left hand side without trouble. Carefully disconnected the wiring clips, unscrewed the holding screw and removed the old coils. Installed the new colis, 1 has three prongs and the other has 2 so you ca'nt mix them up. Replaced the hold screw, re-connected the witing harness, installed a new wire tie, and re-stalled the two holding screws. Closed the cover and turned it on.
At first it did not heat up which was dissappointing; but then I left it alone and 15 minutes later it worked like new! And heated up just fine ever since.

Total cost about $35.00 with shipping. I took a chance that I would not need the sensor or the ignitor based on the comments of others and I just bought the coils. If I had to do it over I would have bought all three and saved on the shipping.

female part of door clasp broke

  • Customer: Tammy from St. Peters, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

Brown stains on clothes.

  • Customer: John from Palm Desert, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.

Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.

Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.

John H.
Palm Desert, CA

Loud Squealing

  • Customer: William from Hudson Falls, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.

Dryer would spin but not heat. The gas flame would only come on once, if that.

  • Customer: dan from bellingham, WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Once I found this site, with everybody's description of the problem & fix, it was pretty easy.
Pry the front of the top up using a flat screwdriver at each side. Then disconnected the dryer-controls wire bundle (dryer unplugged of course) at the connector, and unscrewed 1 screw on each side of the front panel close to the top (under the controls, back-side of the panel), in order to pry the front panel off - top 1st.
With everything opened up, just unscrew the two screws on top of the burner coil. the pull off the plate, slip off the 2 coils, disconnect the wires, and install the new coils in reverse. Put it all back together and you're good!
(I replaced the drum glides too, while I was in there - just in time!)

Gas flame turns off after a while, dryer keeps turning but no heat is generated.

  • Customer: Giuseppe from San Francisco, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Before this fix which worked beautifully, I tried replacing the flame sensor which did not work. To read that story, search under part number PS459818 (Flame Sensor). Our model is a Westinghouse, so access to the unit is a bit different than the other stories. It's a stacked front-loader sitting on top of a washing machine.

1. Open the little front door (lower left side) by unscrewing the little screw right below it. The door will pivot and slide out vertically.
2. Disconnect the electrical main lead coming from the back of the unit (just in case).
3. Close the gas switch lever on main gas pipe coming from the back on left side (just in case).
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on top of the metal bracket holding the two coils. The screws have to be removed completely along with the bracket. It's easy, they are right in front and there is room for the screwdriver. Use a thin long one instead of one with multiple bits to better align with the screws, which are very close to the coils.
3. The two coils slide right out and are very different so it's easy to keep them straight. Remove electrical connectors before or after removing the coils (I marked the plastic on top with a sharpie to keep them in the right orientation).
4. Drop in the two new coils and reconnect them to the electrical leads.
5. Reconnect main electrical lead from back (match wire colors)
6. Reopen gas lever on gas pipe.
7. Drop in front cover at an angle, tilt vertically and put screw back underneath. Use magnetized screwdriver or a piece of scotch tape to hold the screw or it might fall off the screwdriver.
8. Voila'. It worked.

This website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fix it's just like new. In 1994 we used parts bought here to fix our washing machine (Westinghouse LT350RXW1). That machine is now 15 years old and still going!

dryer lint screen rplacement

  • Customer: Frank from Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
removed two screws - replaced lint screen replacement, TIME TO REPLACE UNIT - ONE MINUTE. What made this project a snap was the pictures and graphs( parts replace) uses to ensure you are ordering the exact screen .

Well we ordered one and that didn't fit so had to return then we ordered the 2nd one and that worked but really only need the lint screen not the whole frame so it was to expensive for what you need why not sell it separate?

  • Customer: Delaine from Fort Atkinson, WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
put it in the lint screen spot.

The old drum seal top had torn off.

  • Customer: jeffrey from round lake heights, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the drayer top and then removed the front panel.
Removed the bottom seal from the acr as it was warn.
Carefully scarped off the remaining bits of felt from the arc.
Applied the supplied adhesive to the top half of the cleaned arc.
Placed the seal and held in place with small spring clamps.
Let it dry for an hour, then I repeated the process with the bottom seal.
I let it dry over night, overkill probably but I wanted it to stay.
Replaced the front with new seal and closed up the top.
It has been working well since. Thanks for stocking parts that help out homeowner's on tight budgets.

Intermittent squealing noise

  • Customer: Peter from Middletown, CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I've replaced the rear plastic bearing on this dryer twice, so I am familiar with taking the unit apart. After replacing the bearing in December, the machine still made noise (which had been masked by how loud the bearing was). The belt didn't look so great and it's 13 years old, so I ordered one and a new idler pulley assembly.

First, I disconnected the power and pulled it out for access. Using a large blade screwdriver, popped the cover open from the two clips in front. Be sure to support the top cover when you open it on the tabs or they will bend - I propped it against the wall. I disconnected the two wires that go to the door switch, and then removed the two screws that hold the front panel and door in place and lifted/opened that and removed the front panel and set it aside.

Next, I removed the back access grill (2 screws) and popped the belt off the idler by relieving the tension on the belt. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the idler pivot bolt and idler arm assembly. I installed the new idler arm assembly in its place and reattached the spring.

Moving to the front of the dryer, I lifted the drum off the blower housing on which it was resting and took off the belt through the front of the dryer. I then replaced the belt in reverse. Back through the access panel on the rear, I put the new belt on the motor and idler.

Be sure to check that there are no flips in the belt. I rotate the drum by hand a couple of revolutions to be certain.

I then reinstalled the front cover and door, reconnected the door switch, replaced the access panel and put the cover back down, popping the clips into place.

Put the dryer back in place, reconnected the exhaust and plugged it in. Voila - quiet dryer.

As an aside, I also took the time to clean the lint out of the blower and exhaust with a vacuum cleaner hose.

Gas dryer wouldn't stay hot.

  • Customer: David from Petaluma, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I definitely would not have tried to do this had it not been for the other testimonials written here. But it sounded so easy, I had to just try it (the repair man estimated that with parts and labor, we would be looking at somewhere between $250 and $300!).

The repair itself took less than 15 min, but I spend a good deal of time looking around the garage for a few screwdrivers and my socket set (me and tools don't meet too often). I could simply pry up the top cover on the dryer with my hands, then got it all the way up after removing two screws from the lint trap and undoing this really annoying wire connector thing. From there the front panel lifted off. To remove the drum, just had to release the tensonier on the belt, and it came right out. From this point it was really obvious where the replacement parts would be going. A few screws later, and I could swap the parts, and put humpty dumpty back together again.

It works!!!
All Instructions for the TDG546RBW0
46-60 of 370