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TDG336REW0 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for TDG336REW0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the TDG336REW0
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Not heat from the dryer

  • Customer: Hui from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, let me thank your wonder web site and service.


Here is the step-by-step procedure:


Unplugged the power.

Accessed the heater assembly from the front left lower corner.

Turned off the small gas valve.

Unscrewed the copper nut connecting the small gas valve and the heater assembly.

Disconnected the 3 wire connectors.

Unscrewed 2 screws under the heater assembly.

Took out the heater assembly.

Unscrewed the screw for the igniter assembly.

Installed the new igniter assembly. Be very careful with the M shaped coil. I broke a new one. That is why I have order the same part twice. But it still cost me less for hiring a tech or buying a new dryer.

Carefully put the heater assembly back into it position.

Connected the gas connector.

Secured the heater assembly to the bottom of the dryer with 2 screws.

Connected 3 wire connectors.

Turned on the small gas valve.

Plugged in and ran a test.

It worked!!.

Gas flame turns off after a while. No more heat.

  • Customer: Giuseppe from San Francisco CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Fixed it eventually with part PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). See separate story.

The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner unit but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.

This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.

This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.

Dryer was squealing and leaving brown marks on clothes.

  • Customer: William from Ardmore OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power and vent then pulled away from wall. You will need to move the dryer away from the wall to replace the ground bearing and retaining plate and/or the dryer belt. Removed top of dryer, disconnected wiring harness' then removed the two screws that hold the front panel on the dryer. After removing the two screws, lift out and then up on the front panel. This should remove it from the retaining clips on the bottom. To remove the dryer belt, remove access panel on rear/ bottom left of dryer. Just inside the panel you will see a tension pulley held by a spring. Use your hands to relieve the tension on the belt and remove the belt from the bottom pulleys. Now go to the side of the dryer and attempt to lift up on the front and back of the drum to remove it from the rear bearing guide. There is a slot that it rides in and it only needs to come up about an inch or so. If you cannot get the the rear bearing free this way, you will have to get inside the drum and remove the three screws in the back of the drum. There are two sets of screws, remove the inside circle of screws. At this point, the drum should slide out the front of the dryer. Use aSharpie to mark the center of the top guide on the metal then use a chisel or putty knife to remove the old guides from the front panel of the dryer. You probably won't be able to remove all of the old glue, but make sure you remove all of the old felt. Lay the panel front down and apply glue to the new top guide. Line up center of top guide with the mark you made earlier. Clamp in place. I used several spring clamps, but clothes pins will work. Now put glue on the bottom guide and clamp it in place. The bevel on the bottom guide will point to the back of the dryer. Now, while your dryer is disassembled and the glue is drying CLEAN IT OUT!!! You'll have no better opportunity to thoroughly clean this thing. Remove old bearing guide from the back of the dryer and replace with the new one. This will include the new grounding bearing and retaining plate. Apply high temp grease (generously) to the new bearing guide. Remove old rear drum bearing from drum and install new one. Take old belt off drum and put new one on. Place drum back in dryer cabinet. Be sure new belt doesn't snag or hang on anything. Guide the new rear drum bearing into the groove on the top of the guide and push down into place. It should be a snap ;-). GO to back of dryer and reinstall new dryer belt around pulleys. I put a little of the high temp grease on the guide pulley shaft on the tensioner. Replace access panel. Reinstall front panel by placing bottom back into the two retaining clips and then use your free hand to lift up the drum and guide it into place around the new guides while pushing the top of the panel into place. Replace top screws in front panel and reconnect wiring harness'. Replace top of dryer, slide dryer into place and reattach vent. Hope thos helps someone. It really wasn't very hard.

DOOR LATCH & DOOR STRIKE BROKEN ON DRYER

  • Customer: Bruce from Seminole FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I REMOVED THE BROKEN DOOR LATCH & STRIKE WITH PLIERS. THEN I PUSHED THE NEW PARTS INTO PLACE

Dryer would not ignite

  • Customer: David from Murrieta CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body

no heat in the dryer

  • Customer: Joy from Lakeville MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.

lint filter did not fit "squarely" into its place

  • Customer: Jeff from Bethalto IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
replaced old filter, only to find that the new one had the same issue. After closer examination, I determined the filter guide that screws into place, which I had removed earlier to clean lint out, did not hold the lint casing correctly. I removed and reinstalled the piece that has the metal moisture sensors, and replaced it, ensure both screws held the lint casing as it should. Now I have two lint filters that fit perfectly! So, if you ever remove the piece wtih the metal sensors, make sure that the lint casing is screwed in correctly when replacing.

the burner wouldn't ignite

  • Customer: Michael from Newbury Park CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
UNPLUG the appliance. After removing the top of the dryer the front is easily removed. To make life simple I disconnected the wire harrness at the quick disconnect and placed the door/front away from the workspace. I removed the bracket holding the coils in place and replaced the old with the new coils. replaced the front and top panels and pugged it in! Good as new!! I originally ordered the wrong part and PART'S SELCET.COM refunded my money no problem! I will bookmark this site and use it again.

Motor shaft broke

  • Customer: Beverly from Blairsville GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
had to remove the belt and drum and then remove the motor and replace it...put the belt on and then the hard part was to get the drum in place without the belt coming off. New Motor works quieter than the old one did, so I assume the dryer came with a defective motor to begin with and then the shaft finally broke. It runs very quiet now, but never did before. Even a service man came when it was new but said that was normal. Now we know it was not....there was a problem from the start.

dryer had a bad squeak

  • Customer: Jana from Fort Worth TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed dryer front, unscrewed 3 screws in center hub, replaced bearing assembly. Removed old basket seal with razor scraper, cleaned surface with mineral spirits, applied new basket seal. Replaced dryer front and project was done. Dryer has no more sqeaks.

top glide was worn and "grabbing" clothes

  • Customer: DANIEL from WEST HAZLETON PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug dryer (gotta say it). Remove the two screws that hold in the lint catch. Remove top of dryer (two screws in back hold brackets, the front snaps on). remove two screws along the front edge to take front panel off the dryer (there are also clips). Unhook the two electrical connectors that control the door shut off. Once the front is off, remove the old glide and felt and install the new parts. Be sure not to step on the tube of contact cement, making it explode inside the bag. That sucked. Reassemble.

My husband ruined the old latch by trying to shut the door too hard, and the old latch fell down into the inside of the dryer.

  • Customer: Michelle from Dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!

Old Dryer drum veins degraded and broke down.

  • Customer: Alfred from Loveland CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

Squealing sound Idler arm and pulley

  • Customer: Lewis from Thornton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
This is actually a white consolidated IND. brand, but that wasn't on your list. Be sure to check your tensioner pully if you hear squealing coming from the dryer. I changed the felt ring and the support bearing before realizing that my pully bushing was the cause of the noise. If you have squealing then spray a little wd40 on the bushing and shaft, if the noise stops, then you found the smoking gun. Replace the pulley. Unhook the spring and it comes right off. No tools needed.

dryer drum squealing loudly!

  • Customer: john from waynesboro VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
THIS UNIT IS A STACKABLE WASHER&DRYER,SO FIRST PULL UNIT AWAY FROM WALL ATLEAST 4 FOOT.UNPLUG POWER CORD,THEN TAKE10 DAGREE FRONT PANEL OFF THEN THE CONTROL PANEL OFF AND UNPLUG THE 5 CONNETORS IF YOUR UNIT HAS THAT MANY,THEN LAY PANEL ASSIDE.TAKE DRYER DOOR OFF,MAKES IT EASIER WHEN PUTTING IT ALL BACK TOGETHER.NOW TAKE FRONT PANEL OFF AND THE DRYER LENT TUBE,NOW JUST TAKE THE 3 CENTER PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS OUT AND SLIDE DRUM OUT.PULL UPWARD ON WHAT THEY CALL THE SHAFT WHICH HELD DRUM ON.NOW THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU SHOULD ORDER.BELT,GROUNDING BALL CLIP,GROUNDING BALL,DRUM SUPPORT BEARING,BEARING BRACKET,AND MOST IMPORTANT PART IS THE SHAFT.THE SHAFT IS UR INSURANCE FOR THE WHOLE JOB.USE A GOOD GREASE LIKE WHITE LITHIUM GREASE AND COAT THE SHAFT END AND THE DRUM SUPPORT BEARING.THE GREASE WILL CUT DOWN ON FRICTION FOR A WHILE,AND RE ASSEMBLE THE WAY YOU TOOK APART.REMINDER GROUNDING BALL GOES BEHIND DRUM SUPPORT BEARING NOT IN FRONT.GOOD LUCK AND PLEASE VACCUM.
All Instructions for the TDG336REW0
16-30 of 390