Models > TDG336RBW1 > Instructions

TDG336RBW1 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for TDG336RBW1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the TDG336RBW1
31-45 of 241
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dryer door part broke

  • Customer: Bonnie from Saint Augustine FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.

thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!

bonnie J.

heat would initially come on then go off or sometimes not come on at all.

  • Customer: Vincent from Fairfield CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. unpluged the dryer and turned off the gas.
2. pulled dryer out so i'd have ample room to work on it.
3. used large flat blade screwdriver in the front between the top lid and dryer face to gently pop-up the lid.
4. removed 4 screws from inside, that hold the face to the main box leaving the wires all intact.
Found the coils on the lower left, held in place by two screws and plate.
5. took a good look at thier orientation before unpluging old and installing new, I recommend one at a time.
6. Vacuumm any exceess lint and check foam seal between lint trap and exhuast duc, the glue came undone on mine causing extra lint dust that is potentially flamable.
6. screw dryer front back on to main box, make sure to check wiring harness and that all electrical blade connectors are still pluged in to their componants.
7. At this point plug in, turn on gas and do a test run.
8.if everything checks out good then lower top make sure flexable exhuast hose is still connected on hte back of the dryer.
9. Tell your wife or girlfriend or husband or boy friend they can now finish your laundry :)

Bearing wore out in original idler pulley

  • Customer: Paul from Placerville CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed rear inspection plate, removed pulley spring and one hex bolt, replaced in reverse order. Very simple removal and install for this. Glad to see that Part Select still had parts for this 22 year old drier.

Dryer wasn't heating

  • Customer: Jack from Huntingdon PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.

Broken Door Strike

  • Customer: William from Martinsville IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 5 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
After the part arrived, I located a pair of needle nose pliers. Then removed the broken one and inserted the new one. It was very easy.
I also noted that the new part was of a better design than the original. It should not need further attention.

The lint screen had tears on it which could cause a serious problem, possibly a fire.

  • Customer: Joyce from North Dighton MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I unscrewed the old the lint screen FRAME and easily removed it, replacing it with the new one. The new lint -- SCREEN -- just needed to be squeezed here and there, and molded into a better shape. The screen itself, arrived flattened on the bottom, causing it to be too wide and difficult to remove from the frame. I easily molded it with my hands into the shape of the previous one and it slipped right into place. ( Shaped like an oval, flexible sack.) VERY easy!

Small burn marks on light clothing

  • Customer: Gordon from Canton PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First I unpluged the machine, then opened the top with a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws inside, unpluged the door sensor. (makes it stop when opened) Removed old gasket, cleaned with emery cloth, cleaned the residue and applied the glue provided. Waited about 1 min. and applied the new gasket leaving about 1/8'' of it hanging over the door facing the drum.

screen fell out of lint screan frame

  • Customer: steve from scottsville KY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
remove 2 screws,pull frame out. put new in. tighten 2 screws. put lint screen in

Lint screen had torn

  • Customer: Luann from Huntersville NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
For me it wasn't even a repair, but rather, open the package, take out and discard the old lint tray and pop the new one in! Done. I didn't have to replace the frame. I would like to comment on how easy ordering was from partselect.com and how quickly the part arrived. Very satisfied customer! Thank you!

Intermittent squealing noise

  • Customer: Peter from Middletown CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I've replaced the rear plastic bearing on this dryer twice, so I am familiar with taking the unit apart. After replacing the bearing in December, the machine still made noise (which had been masked by how loud the bearing was). The belt didn't look so great and it's 13 years old, so I ordered one and a new idler pulley assembly.

First, I disconnected the power and pulled it out for access. Using a large blade screwdriver, popped the cover open from the two clips in front. Be sure to support the top cover when you open it on the tabs or they will bend - I propped it against the wall. I disconnected the two wires that go to the door switch, and then removed the two screws that hold the front panel and door in place and lifted/opened that and removed the front panel and set it aside.

Next, I removed the back access grill (2 screws) and popped the belt off the idler by relieving the tension on the belt. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the idler pivot bolt and idler arm assembly. I installed the new idler arm assembly in its place and reattached the spring.

Moving to the front of the dryer, I lifted the drum off the blower housing on which it was resting and took off the belt through the front of the dryer. I then replaced the belt in reverse. Back through the access panel on the rear, I put the new belt on the motor and idler.

Be sure to check that there are no flips in the belt. I rotate the drum by hand a couple of revolutions to be certain.

I then reinstalled the front cover and door, reconnected the door switch, replaced the access panel and put the cover back down, popping the clips into place.

Put the dryer back in place, reconnected the exhaust and plugged it in. Voila - quiet dryer.

As an aside, I also took the time to clean the lint out of the blower and exhaust with a vacuum cleaner hose.

Gas dryer wouldn't stay hot.

  • Customer: David from Petaluma CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I definitely would not have tried to do this had it not been for the other testimonials written here. But it sounded so easy, I had to just try it (the repair man estimated that with parts and labor, we would be looking at somewhere between $250 and $300!).

The repair itself took less than 15 min, but I spend a good deal of time looking around the garage for a few screwdrivers and my socket set (me and tools don't meet too often). I could simply pry up the top cover on the dryer with my hands, then got it all the way up after removing two screws from the lint trap and undoing this really annoying wire connector thing. From there the front panel lifted off. To remove the drum, just had to release the tensonier on the belt, and it came right out. From this point it was really obvious where the replacement parts would be going. A few screws later, and I could swap the parts, and put humpty dumpty back together again.

It works!!!

Well we ordered one and that didn't fit so had to return then we ordered the 2nd one and that worked but really only need the lint screen not the whole frame so it was to expensive for what you need why not sell it separate?

  • Customer: Delaine from Fort Atkinson WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
put it in the lint screen spot.

The old drum seal top had torn off.

  • Customer: jeffrey from round lake heights IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Opened the drayer top and then removed the front panel.
Removed the bottom seal from the acr as it was warn.
Carefully scarped off the remaining bits of felt from the arc.
Applied the supplied adhesive to the top half of the cleaned arc.
Placed the seal and held in place with small spring clamps.
Let it dry for an hour, then I repeated the process with the bottom seal.
I let it dry over night, overkill probably but I wanted it to stay.
Replaced the front with new seal and closed up the top.
It has been working well since. Thanks for stocking parts that help out homeowner's on tight budgets.

dryer lint screen rplacement

  • Customer: Frank from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
removed two screws - replaced lint screen replacement, TIME TO REPLACE UNIT - ONE MINUTE. What made this project a snap was the pictures and graphs( parts replace) uses to ensure you are ordering the exact screen .

clothes not drying in one cycle

  • Customer: Aaron from Kerhonkson NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..
All Instructions for the TDG336RBW1
31-45 of 241