TDE546RBW0 Tappan Dryer - Instructions

I've replaced the rear plastic bearing on this dryer twice, so I am familiar with taking the unit apart. After replacing the bearing in December, the machine still made noise (which had been masked by how loud the bearing was). The belt didn't look so great and it's 13 years old, so I ordered one and a new idler pulley assembly.

First, I disconnected the power and pulled it out for access. Using a large blade screwdriver, popped the cover open from the two clips in front. Be sure to support the top cover when you open it on the tabs or they will bend - I propped it against the wall. I disconnected the two wires that go to the door switch, and then removed the two screws that hold the front panel and door in place and lifted/opened that and removed the front panel and set it aside.

Next, I removed the back access grill (2 screws) and popped the belt off the idler by relieving the tension on the belt. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the idler pivot bolt and idler arm assembly. I installed the new idler arm assembly in its place and reattached the spring.

Moving to the front of the dryer, I lifted the drum off the blower housing on which it was resting and took off the belt through the front of the dryer. I then replaced the belt in reverse. Back through the access panel on the rear, I put the new belt on the motor and idler.

Be sure to check that there are no flips in the belt. I rotate the drum by hand a couple of revolutions to be certain.

I then reinstalled the front cover and door, reconnected the door switch, replaced the access panel and put the cover back down, popping the clips into place.

Put the dryer back in place, reconnected the exhaust and plugged it in. Voila - quiet dryer.

As an aside, I also took the time to clean the lint out of the blower and exhaust with a vacuum cleaner hose.

I unplugged the dryer. Undid the top by taking out 2 screws and mounts on each side of the back. There were two screws in the front panel that had to be removed. One on each side. Then I took the two wires off the killer switch on the door. Marking which was top and which was bottom. Then I removed the front panel. Then I undid the drum which had 3 screws in. I took out the drum to find the problem. I replaced the drum putting the belt on. Then I took off the back panel at the bottom of the dryer to get at the idler arm. Took off the spring and unhooked the arm. I put the new arm on and replaced the spring. I then put the belt on to the pulley and closed up the back panel. I put back the front panel. I put the top back on. I plugged it back in and turned it on and it worked!

Removed rear inspection plate, removed pulley spring and one hex bolt, replaced in reverse order. Very simple removal and install for this. Glad to see that Part Select still had parts for this 22 year old drier.

1. Slid putty knife under each side of front of dryer to release lid.
2. Removed 2 screws from front of drum to release door assembly.
3. Removed wires from door switch.
3. Cleaned lint out of inside of dryer.
4. Removed old felt seals, upper & lower.
5. Removed old glue with goof off type remover.
6. Glued new seals on & held then in place with clothes pins. (there was enough glue in the tube that came with the upper glide for both seals)
7. Put dryer back together.
**Ensure you verify the correct felt seal pieces with the model number of your dryer, usually on inside of door.

Unplugged the drier, a couple of screws, remove the wires (take a picture of the wires with your cell phone to remember how they go back, twist out the thermostat. Installation is the reverse. A piece of cake.

Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.

Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.

Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.

John H.
Palm Desert, CA

1. After checking the Parts Select website for some useful information I unplugged the dryer.
2. I popped the two clips holding the top down and lifted the top up and out of the way.
3. I used the 8mm socket and screwdiver combo to remove the two screws holding the front of the dryer on. These screws are so close to the sides of the dryer that you need something very thin to seat the socket, it is so thin a small rachet would not fit.
4. Once the to screws are free to forget to unhook the two wires that lead to the automatic cutoff switch on the right. Label them and move them out of the way.
5. The front of the dryer should pivot forward and come right off. Don't forget about the two clips at the bottom, they are not really attached to anything and can be easy to lose.
6. Get your screwdriver and dive into the drum, on the back should be three screws, take those out.
7. Spin the dryer around and take off the vent cover in the lower left corner of the back of the dryer, watch out the socket is a smaller size.
8. Once inside there is an idler pulley like on the back of a ten speed bike, pull the tension out of it and take the drive belt off the pulleys.
9. The drum should be able to be pulled out the front of the dryer, set aside with the door. The screws on my dryer were so tight I had to use a hammer drill to remove them.
10. This is were I got stuck, no one mentioned how to get the bearing plate off, as if everyone would just know. You must lift up on the bearing plate and once it moves up then you can pull it out.
11. Use the 8mm socket to unscrew the old plastic bearing guide. The small metal clip on the back of the dryer will fall off with the grounding ball bearing.
12. With brum bearing kit in hand start off by putting as much high temp lubricant as you can into the bottom of the new bearing guide. I also use a little lubricant like glue to hold the new grounding ball bearing in the little hole on the back of the bearing guide.
13. Here is the tricky part you have to screw the bearing guide into the the dryer while simulaneously holding the little metal clip in place on the back of the dryer. I used duct tape to hold the metal clip and once the screws got started I just took the tape off.
14. Now you have to do the impossible, the bearing must be screwed to the drum. So unless you have 7 foot long arms you can't hold the bearing and drive the screws. Another problem is the bearing itself, the holes are not the same size as the original and they are not threaded. I stripped every screw that came with the kit trying to get them through the metal of the bearing.
15. With an unwilling victim holding the bearing steady I finally got a replacement screw to seat through the bearing. Once you get one the rest are easier.
16. You are ready to reassemble, after vacuuming everything ou, pick up the drum making sure the belt is around the drum about where it was when you took it off. Push the drum through the front of the dryer all the way to the back, aim a little high so the bearing can move down and seat in the bearing guide.
17. Tuck the clips on the front panel of the dryer into the bottom front edge of the dryer and the whole front should pivot up, when you get it almost closed you will have to lift the drum and set it on the front bearing in the door.
18. While holding the front of the dryer on you have to reach inside and get the 8mm screw started on the left or right, if you let go the front of the dryer will pop off and you have to start over with the pivot. Now is a good time to have a magnet on a stick so when you drop the screw or screw driver you don't have to take the front off to retrieve your tools.
19. Once the front is on reconnect the two wires to the switch in the front of the dryer. Remember the ones you were supposed to have labeled earlier.
20. Close the top of the dryer and spin the dryer around so you can reach inside the vent door and pull the tension pulley over and reseat the drive belt. Rem

First I unpluged the machine, then opened the top with a flat head screw driver. Then I removed the two screws inside, unpluged the door sensor. (makes it stop when opened) Removed old gasket, cleaned with emery cloth, cleaned the residue and applied the glue provided. Waited about 1 min. and applied the new gasket leaving about 1/8'' of it hanging over the door facing the drum.

Almost exactly as per the videos available on the PartSelect web site. The only additional information that would help is that the vent on the back of the unit can be removed to allow for access to the belt spring pulley. This avoids having to reach around from the front of the unit and feel your way to remove and re-install the belt.

1 Unplug the dryer and Raise top up by releasing the clips and fold back to expose the drum. 2. Take Phillips head screw driver and remove two screws inside the front dryer panel and then take flathead screwdriver to pop out both sides and set aside. 3. Lay on your stomach and reach inside to the belt pulley and push right so the belt will release then stand to either side of dryer and grab the belt and lift the drum up out of its bracket. 4. Go to the front and pull the drum out and replace the Rear Drum Bearing Kit . 5. Grab the front panel and remove the Top dryer guide and replace to match evenly with the bottom dryer guide by cutting at least 1/8 -1/4" from felt and use High temp adhesive to glue down. 6. Replace everything in order that was taken apart and reconnect electrical plug and start dryer.

Removed top cover.
Lowered control assembly.
Removed front door assembly.
Removed drum.
Removed heater assembly.
Removed support bearing and bracket using existing bonding ball.
Re-assembled in reverse order.

First of all, the folks at Part Select have been terrific. I balled up my address and they were great in correcting my error and getting the parts promptly to me. They provide directions with the parts. And You Tube, is a wealth of information too. The process is to remove the drum and replace the nylon busihing that supports the drum at the back of the machine. Getting it out was no sweat. Getting the drum back in was a bit more challenging single handed. If I was going to make any suggestion it would be this is a good project for two sets of hands with the second set needed for about ten minutes. The You Tube video I watched said putting the front cover with the drum attached to the back of the unit would be the challenge and they were right. Otherwise, super easy and the results are it's back to "new" condition. Thanks again to Part Select!

Don’t do like I did and undo the drummer from the back of that thing pulled off the bearing

With the excellent replacement parts sold by this site, it went like silk. The dryer is not only working great, but actually quieter.

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!