SWXG831HQ2 Westinghouse Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

We had the rear drum bearing replaced about three years ago. The company that serviced it was quick to take our money for the diagnosis but took over a month (and a threat to call the better business bureau) to actually make the repair. This time I decided to do it my self as I had successfully replaced the the drum drive belt two years ago. The dissassembly was challenging but the repair it's self very easy. I opted to use nuts and bolts to attach the bearing assembly rather than the supplied screws as they did not want to tighten. Reassmbly was a bit of a challenge regarding the drum drive belt but I had the entire repair done in less than an hour.

I have a frigidaire dryer about 5 years old.

I first removed the top cover being careful to watch how the wires to the controls are connected. It is best to snap photos with your digital camera so you can remember how to reconnect the wires.

Pulling up on the drum, I lifted it out of the rear sleeve. Once out, you could easily see why it squealed. The metal bearing had groves on it where is made contact with the holder.

The difficult part of this was getting the 3 screws that hold the bearing to the drum off. The phillips screw head was easily marred if you don't have the proper screw driver bit. I think a better screw head would make the job easier.

After removal, the replacement was a snap. When everything was back together, the dryer sounded like new. The job took me about 2 hrs due to the hard part of removing the screws.

I followed others instructions on this site to disassemble but felt confident since 2-3 years prior I had replaced the felt top/bottom guides around the drum and the drum belt. The video on this page is also helpful

1) Pop the top with a putty knife
2) Unscrew two screws that hold the front onto the dryer frame
3) Lift front from two clips at bottom of dryer
4) Release tension from belt (unscrew/remove rear access plate)
4) Lift drum up and forward out of dryer
5) Unscrew drum bearing 3x screws from inside of drum
5) Remove the drum bearing holder
6) Pre-thread the rear drum bearing!!! Very important. Thread by screwing a supplied screw slowly through the pre-drilled holes.
7) Attach drum bearing
8) Attach new rear holder/cup & ball bearing (ball bearing goes on outside of plastic cup)
9) Use lots of supplied grease, espeiclly helpful that it acts as a temporary glue holding the ball bearing in place
10) Reverse steps to assemble

I'm glad I bought the entire rear bearing kit as I found the bearing holder had completely worn through and partially melted the metal cup. The ball bearing was missing - gone!

Also found that the power cord had partially melted, so I replaced that from the hardware store. Scary.

Excellent!!! The parts fit perfectly, but most of all was the video that went through the repair step-by-step.

A local repairman quoted $198 for parts and another $150 for labor. Got the parts here for less that $26!!!!

The only issue (very minor) was the video called for a phillips head screwdriver to remove the front panel, and our dryer needed a squarehead driver. (If I was younger, I would have been able to see the problem).

But, I highly recommend Partselect!!!!

I tested continuity on parts like burner (ok) then on solenoids (not ok) timer (ok) I visited several websites and found the AppliancePartsPros.com site with FREE repair forum and found valuable advice. Then ordered my parts at Parts Select and were delivered 3 later at my front door.
Now a days you almost can forget to work on all the electronics in a wasmachine and dryer, unless you're a electronic guru.
THks.

Taking apart cleaning putting back together I don't have any h-t lube so ill be doing it again. Thanks for the part ill be calling again!

i took apart the dryer and then took out the drum from the inside and then put the new bearing in and put everything back in

Popped the top... disconnected wiring... dropped the front... replaced coils... reversed sequence... done deal. No hassle, no worries, easy as 1-2-3!

I had trouble with the little piece on the back side of the dryer not lining up with the bearing housing. I also didn't see how the drum was gonna stay in place but finally realized the front cover lines it up. All in all it was awesome to get the part I needed so quickly and cheap, thanks a lot.

My dryer was heating up very briefly blowing hot air initially then cool. I have a stacking washer/dryer set (2002). I initially turned off the gas valve at the wall, ran the dry for several minutes to clear the gas line, then unplugged the power. I was then able to pop the top using a flathead screw driver, securely prop it open, unhook the wiring harness to the front panel, unscrew the two front panel screws, and remove the entire front without having to unstack the units. From there, you remove the two screws holding the bracket over the coils (2 of them), remove the electrical connectors attached to both coils and replaced them with the new ones. I then replaced all brackets, screws, and such (you'll need to lift the drum when putting the front back on and make sure it is lined up), plugged it back into power and turned on the gas to test the unit which worked perfectly. The 62% of the time seems to be an accurate figure as nothing else had to be done to the unit. Pretty easy stuff...good luck.

Removed screws at back securing top panel (4).

Removed screws holding water inlet valve to back of machine (2)

Removed water hoses to bucket

Removed squeeze clamp securing water distribution hose from inlet valve

Reversed method with new valve.

Very fast...~25 min
Works fine so far!

Unplug washer. Remove supply lines. Remove two screws in back and remove clips holding top of washer. Front of washer top is held by two clips. Release top from clips and slide top towards the front. Remove two screws holding the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Lift unit out and remove clamp and hose. Install new unit in reverse of removal.

Shut off water to washer....unplug power cord...pulled washer from wall out into room....removed 2 water supply hoses....removed 2 top retaining clip screws on rear top of cabinet.....lifted rear end of top panel up approx 5 inches......propped up with small pieces of cut up 2X4 lumber.....did not disconnect any wiring related to the control panel...remove 2 screws holding valve to cabinet back panel......lift valve up and out of cabinet by the tub fiil hose.....disconnect 2 wire plugs, mark these upper, lower or hot /cold......disconnect the tub fill hose....remove the back panel-to-valve bracket off the old valve and install on the new valve and reverse this procedure!!! The new valve flows water better and faster, the wash is done quicker!!

After reading other peoples problems i decided it must be the coils after looking at the picture of the part I looked at the dryer to find were the part was. it was right in front behind the inspection cover. so i order the part. it came very fast.these are not the first parts i have purchased from Partselect.the web site is newer now and i am glad because reading other peoples problems help me decide what was wrong with mine.PS Always clean every thing inside the dryer!! 15-20 min job one screw driver! (19 year old unit works fine)thanks to Partselect!!!

Two small clamps holding the top onto the body were removed with two screws. I lifted the top and held it up with a small piece of board. Two screws were removed on the back top left that hold the water inlet valve in place. Once those were removed I reached inside and removed the two plugged in wires and and lifted the part out. At this point I used pliers to unclamp the hose that fed into the washer. I then reversed the process and put in the new part. Works great. Thanks a lot for making the part I needed easy to find. I am now a true fans of your website.