Models > SVE47600B Maytag > Instructions

SVE47600B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for SVE47600B parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SVE47600B
76-90 of 341
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The Clock Display went out on our Jenn Air downdraft stove

  • Customer: Joe from Cedar Rapids IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
We simply removed the front knobs, the 8 screws underneath the front panel and dropped down the control panel. We removed two screws holding the assembly and removed the ribbon cable and the two other connectors. We put the new one in and reattached all the cables and reassembled and it worked great. Took 15 - 20 minutes.

No display on clock or oven status, auto light on burners not working, oven won't shut off.

  • Customer: James from Columbus OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 4 screws that hold the control assembly to the range and observed that the clock assembly/control board appeared easy to remove.

Ordered the replacement board and it came a day sooner than the shipping I paid for. Only took about 10 minutes to take the control assembly off again and install the new.

There were no instructions with the part....the ribbon connection to the board was a little tricky to figure out...when I first released the clamps that held the ribbon to the board and pulled the ribbon out, I thought I damaged it....never seen a connection like this.

The range works fine now but it should be noted that this part is the logic control board for the entire range. The board malfunctioned over a period of time. First time, the entire oven shut down in the about half way through the preparation of Thanksgiving meal a few years ago. I couldn't bring it back to life and luckily, we had another oven to finish the turkey.

Next, we had trouble with the electronic pilots on the burners. You would turn the knob for one burner and it would attempt to light another burner.

Then the oven would not shut off when the Cancel/Off button was pressed. Would have to go and trip the main breaker to turn off the oven!

This replacement part cost $126 which is a bargain considering a new oven would cost over $2000. And it works great now. But I don't trust this appliance and I get this feeling that I threw good money after bad.

However, my experience with PartSelect was great and I will use them again. I just hope I don't have to spend more money on this applicance.

Needed Replacement Filters

  • Customer: Grady E from Vidalia GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Remove Vent Cover, Remove Old Filter, Replace With New Filter, Replace Vent Cover, Repair Complete

could not read time or temp

  • Customer: martin from castalian springs TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
it took me longer to get my portable screwdriver from my shop than to remove four screws from the panel and two screws from the clock assembly and to unplug and replug wiring , then reassemble the panel

display would not light and oven would not work all the time

  • Customer: STEPHEN from BELLEVUE OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I turned the power off to the stove at the breaker box. I opened the oven door and took off the four hex head screws holding the face panel on. There are four philips screws holding a trim piece on the panel that does not need to be removed and the two end caps do not need to be removed either. I pulled the panel out and tipped it up so I could access the clock display unit. There are two wiring harness clips that unplugged very easily. The ribbon connector is a little more tricky. You have to slide up two clips on the end and then slide up a section going across the ribbon. It's very easy, just don't try to pull the ribbon out without undoing the clips. The display unit was held on with two hex head screws. I removed them, attatched the new one and put it back together. I then turned the oven back on to see if it worked. The display worked perfectly but, the oven would still not get hot on bake. I turned the breaker off again and removed the shelves in the oven. I then removed the two phillips screws holding the bottom bake burner in and pulled it out until I could access the clips. I pulled off the clips and checked the burner for continuity. There was none so I ordered a new bake burner. The new burner showed up the next day and I hooked it up in about 5 minutes. The oven works great and I couldn't be happier with the experience I had with partselect.com

Display Very Dim & Broil not working

  • Customer: Roger from Oxford NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Turn off the electrical breaker before starting! Open the oven door & remove the 4 silver hex head screws under the bottom of the control panel with a 1/4 " nut driver. Pull out on the bottom of panel. This will access the clock assembly. Unplug the ribbon cable by pushing in & up on the small clips on each end of the connector - this is a little tricky but not that difficult. Remove the two small connectors and remove the two clock assembly mounting screws. Reverse the procedure for installation. This corrected the problem with the broil element not working - apparently the electronic clock assembly was the problem there as well.

The display faded away almost to nothing

  • Customer: Vicky from Fort Bragg AR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
There were only 4 screws to remove to take off the thingy that houses the electronics portion. Then, there was a ribbon connector and two push on connectors to unconnect. Unscrewed the 4 nuts holding the faulty Assembly in place, replaced with new Assembly, and reversed the process.

That easy. The only problem was making sure which of the parts we actually needed.

Downdraft Blower Failure

  • Customer: Steven from Marshfield MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Blower motor stopped working and the breaker tripped. Horrible smell! from the somewhere in the oven. Looking at the wiring diagram told me that there was a relay board feeding he motor, but I had no idea where it was, which took a little Internet searching to find it. Finally seeing that it was in the rear I was happy to see that there was enough flexible gas line to pull out the stove enough to check the board, which was fried. I replaced the board and then looked for the reason it smoked and found that the blower motor was shorted (and stank horribly).
It was straighforward to replace, but when I put everything back, NOTHING worked at all - no lights on the control panel, nothing. I then checked the voltage across the terminals and saw 240V and was puzzled until saw that there was no 120V to neutral where the plug connected to the back of the stove. The outlet, however, had 120V to neutral. Since it was a molded plug I thought that was not likey to be a cmmon failure, so after killing th breaker I took off the outlet cover that the stove plugged into and found out that the neutral terminal was intermittent.
The neutral contacts were not grabbing the netral terminal on the plug tightly enough and were a little discolored in one spot. All that moving around of the plug while moving the stove probably moved it just enough not to work at all - that thing was a fire hazard that I'm surprised hadn't been the cause of more damage in a house only 12 years old. Rather than try and clean the termnals and trust bending them to be tighter (and worry about metal fatigue) I spent the $10 so that I could sleep better for a tight new 240V 30A outlet.
Everthing works like a charm now.

Any setting selected (1 thru 9) would result in the surface burner going to full hot

  • Customer: Randall from Eureka MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.

Oven would not heat

  • Customer: Ila from Carthage NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I cut off the electricity. Removed the back panel. Moved 1 wire at a time from old board to new board. Then removed the old board and replaced the new one. Reattached the back panel and turned on the electricity. I was happy when the oven began to heat.

oven not heating to set temp. 100 degrees too cold

  • Customer: Robert from Funston GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

Oven was not correctly heating to set temperature

  • Customer: Trace from Ofallon MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

ovens wouldn't maintain temperature after preheat cycle

  • Customer: sherri from elk horn IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

No temperature control

  • Customer: Max from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Oven door locked and was flashing code F4

  • Customer: Mary L. from Trinity TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..
All Instructions for the SVE47600B
76-90 of 341