SVD48600PT Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exposing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.

Remove burner knobs, Removed 7 screws from bottom of face plate. Removed screws from 2 alluminum or steel spacers I guess you could call them. I let the Op Panel hang carefully not to stress wires. I marked all wires of the Latch asm. Removed the four screws holding it in and carefully removed the wires. Replaced in opposite manner and self cleaning works. The oven tried to start the cycle but I noticed the latch never triggered. When the function first stopped working I was able to apply slight force to the door and the latch fired. So after replacing the door switch it still failed to work. So latch asm was the official fix. So I have had to replace the latch asm and the Op Panel for being dim. I don't think this model is very good. But Partselect.com is great easy to find parts and good prices. Very pleased with my experience.

I removed teh pans and great filter.

I removed the screws from the older Rear and front burner assembly and use them on the new parts. It just took about 20 mins to do all 4 burners.

Checked that the gas worked for all 4 burnes once assembled. Then replaced the pans and the grease filler.

Results have been great as the gas burners ignite faster and the stove top looks brand new :-)

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Removed Door- Removed outer stainless cover(6 screws) Removed the 1st 2 glass pieces. realized that there were 4 pcs of glass, not 2 as I thought. Found 2nd assembly of 2 pcs, of glass. The piece i ordered that was called inner actually only fit on the inside of the the two outer pcs, too small to replace what was the outer piece on the inside of the door. Called, returned 1st piece, got the correct one and reassembled.
Would have been easier if parts had more understandable labels such as inner door outside glass etc
beware when you order!

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition module. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.

repair was simple, removed a total of 8 screws and seperated the two door panels to replace the 2 hinge assemblies. I spent more time degreasing the door and window then replacing the hinges.

Replace filter

Turn breaker off and start replaceing wires one at a time until you have the new part wired. Then secure new part and turn the breaker back on and it'll work. It's just that simple.

I rremoved two screws and pulled element out about 3 inches. I un hooked the two wires and tested with an ohnm meter to determine the condition of the element. Element was bad so I ordered a new one. Service and price were great. Easy fix. Thank you.
Don't forget to unplug first.