STF7000FS0 Electrolux Washer - Instructions

1. Unplug unit.
2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections.

removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could say that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.

uplugged washer took front off washer 2 screws pryed up top pump was mounted with 2 screws and 2 wires took off found change in pump and the fins to pump worn off ordered part off line the wait for part was longer than the amount of time to fix problem and cost of part saved me about $25-35 if I was to buy local worth wait save money and fix problem washes like new spins and drains all water from tub.

Door lock takes a beating due to flimsy washer door which does not align well and subsequently gets slammed each time which causes lock to malfunction telling the washer that it is not locked. Due to safety the washer will not go into the spin mode. Remove top lid (2 screws) open washer door and loosed the 2 screws holding the lock assembly in place. Reach down into the washer and unsnap the 3 wire harnesses. Reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

Removed the screws holding the door. (One was stuck a little so used an air drill with Phillips head to get the torque needed but someone with a strong grip could have done it as it came out very easily). I removed most of the screws holding the front to back of door to exchange the hinge. There was a problem with the old hinge slopping around and not allowing the door to align properly when shutting it. The new hinge works better. See note*** below on doorframe. I pretty much was able to get the door back together and make it work. I then exchanged the door striker with no problem. It has a built in key so you cannot attach it incorrectly. The next thing was to just reattach the door to the machine and it worked right off the bat. ------------- *** Unfortunately, there were two screw mounts in the Outer Door Frame - Chrome Part Number: PS3495258 that were broken. This doorframe is listed as a $200+ chrome part whereas it is actually a plastic material that is extremely over priced for what it is. Like I mentioned two of the screw mounts had broken off so those screws are just "decoration" now. (These are screws that basically hold the back cover to the front cover). If this becomes a problem, I will simply modify what I have and make the screws fit before I spend $200+ on that part. (It looks like this could be drilled out and a long screw and nut run through to make it work. TELL THE WASHER OPERATOR… just be careful opening and closing the unit (don't slam the door but carefully close it) and it should work a lot longer. I might investigate the make up of a washer the next time I buy one … but the chrome vs. plastic is a hard one to spot. I hope this helps.

Using a screw driver I removed the spring loaded band from around the rubber boot inside the door. You only need to remove the band and then pull the boot from the bottom around to the side. You do not need to fully remove boot. Unscrew locking mechanism. Slide out to be able to see connections. Remove connections. Replace mechanism, reattaching connections into appropriate spots. Replace mechanism and rescrew in. Replace rubber boot by pulling gently out and working rubber V of boot under the metal slot. Once the boot is replaced, replace the metal band making sure the spring is at the bottom of the boot. Wahlah!!! Washer is working perfectly.

After reading the possiblilities of problem, I determined that the drain pump was not working; therefore I ordered a new one. When I opened the washer to replace the part, I found out that the pump was working but the filter was stuffed with pieces of rubber that came out from a rug I washed. Once all the stuff was removed, the washer worked just fine. PartSelect was very gracious to accept the returned with not questions asked!! Thanks partSelect.

My husband made the repair. First, he had to remove the dryer off of the top of the washer since it's a stacking unit. Disconnect water lines. Next he removed two screws from the back of the washer that allows you to remove the lid. Now unsnap a trim piece that is on the back surrounding the water connections and an exhaust port. Reach inside the washer, turn the exhaust port unlocking it and pushing out the back of the washer as far as you can to get it out of the way. Disconnect the electrical lines from the valve dispenser. Remove the two screws that fasten the valve dispenser to the washer. Install the new dispenser and reassemble.

The door striker of the my front loading washing machine is plastic and breaks very easy. The small store I brought it from is now closed and I can't get the part and the last time I did order the part it took a least two weeks for it to arrive and my wash pile was huge. I ordred your part and in two days I had it! Much easier than the 65 dollars charge to have the repairman walk through the door to fix it and the long wait for it to arrive.

Disconnect water and electricity.
Shop-vac out the water in the internal drain hose.
Remove back cover, tip washer on side to gain access.
Un-clamp rubber drain hose,unscrew pump and remove.
Cleanout filter cup (yuk!) find coins and hairpins.
Attach drain hose to new pump and re-install with hose clamps from hardware store because spring clamps were impossible (arthritis in fingers).
Reconnect water and electricity.
Test for leaks and tighten clamps if necessary.

disconnected the power and water supply.

removed the back panel.

unscrewed the contol board that blocked access to the bottom of the shock absorber.

pulled the original pins out with pliers while pressing in the piece that prevents it from working its way out.

removed the shock absorber.

placed the new shock absorber in the bottom mount, put soap on the pin for lubrication and pushed it through the hole. Put the top of the shock absorber in its place and placed the other pin in.

replaced the control board and replaced the rear panel.

Codes did not point directly to the door lock, so that was a 50/50 between door lock and control board. With top of washer removed door lock is just a couple screws and 3 electrical connections.

Belt was worn and frayed. Belt replacement was tricky because new belt was so tight. Used vice grips to lightly hold belt on pulley while using screwdriver through spokes into tub back to ratchet/control pulley. Not too bad.

Works like new!

Take off the back, one of the shock absorbers was broken, it was very obvious. Looked up part at partselect.com, very easy, ordered part, it came in 2 days, the repair took another 15 minutes. There were directions inside the repair part to tell you a trick to get the old one off. It worked like a charm. Why spend $200-300 or more on a repair on a $500 washer when you can do the entire job for about $30 and get it back working in 2 days!! No brainer.

I just removed the 2 screws, removed the old striker and replaced it with the new one. The entire project took 3 minutes.

The top, control panel and front and back of the machine are removed - all by just removing simple sheet-metal screws. NOTE: remove the soap drawer, because there are two longer screws behind the drawer front. When replacing these later, get them just snug because "tight" will crush the supporting plastic. Don't bother to unplug all the wires to the control panel - just tape it to the top of the machine so it doesn't fall. The rubber part to be replaced is held to the machine by three large spring-held bellows clamps. Squeeze the ends with a pair of pliers and slide them off the tubing. When putting the new part on, I found that the cramped space and difficult access made getting two of the spring-held bellows clamps impossible to get back on, so I used automotive-style stainless hose clamps, which screw tight from the side. Be cautious to get them very snug but not super tight because, you can crush the plastic tubing to which you are fastening. Reassembly of the panels on the machine is the reverse.