Models > SGR351HS1 > Instructions

SGR351HS1 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for SGR351HS1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SGR351HS1
1-15 of 366
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Dryer squealed like a pig and at times the drum stopped rotating

  • Customer: charles from new holland OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 478 of 479 people found this instruction helpful
First thought the problem was a stretched drum belt or bad idler pulley. Ordered a new belt and idler assy plus spring. Replaced those items with relative ease following suggestions obtained at this site.However, problem persisted and I now suspected a bad drum bearing. Odered the bearing kit and replaced same using the following procedure.
1. Removed the cover from the back of the dryer (held in place via two phillip head screws)
2. Pushed down on the idler assy and removed the idler spring to release the drum belt.
3. Inserted flat tip screwdriver between the top panel and the dryer main body in the front of the dryer to pry the top loose from the two retaining clips.
4. used phillips screwdriver to remove the two retaining screws (one left, one right) that hold the front panel to the main body of the dryer. (about a foot down from the top of the dryer).
5. disconnected the wiring plug on the top right hand side at the top of the dryer.
6. lifted the front panel slightly removing it from the main body and placed it to the side.
7. lifted the rear of the drum to release it from the bearing bracket and removed the drum belt.
8. Pulled the drum through the front of the dryer body and moved it to an open work area.
9. Reached into the Dryer and loosened the two
bearing bracket screws with a nut driver. Here's where another pair of hands would have come in handy. Holding the ground bar on the back of the drum with on hand, reached into the dryer and finished removing the bracket screws somehow managing not to drop the tiny grounding ball (size of a BB) Removed the badly damaged plastic bracket, grounding bar, and grounding ball and set
them aside to be discarded later.
10. Used impact driver with phillips attachment to remove two of the three screws that hold the bearing to the back of the drum (these are on the inside) The third screw's head stripped out and I had a very difficult time removing it. Had it not been for that, the job would have taken less than an hour.
11. I had my wife hold the bearing in place while I started the three retaining screws.
12. My wife also got behing the dryer and held the grounding bar in place while I installed the new bearing bracket . (this kept me from loosing the grounding ball)
I just reversed the rest of the procedures to install the drum belt, drum, front panel, etc.
The dryer works like new now, doesn't squeal.
Also replaced the on/off switch knob (just pulled the old one from the stem and slid the new one on.

Knob replacement

  • Customer: Kevin from Donalsonville GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 371 of 374 people found this instruction helpful
Just slipped them on and ready to go. Ordered them on thur and got em on Tues.

Loud Squeaking

  • Customer: Frank from Boyertown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 245 of 253 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

Motor would hum but not turn on when start knob was turned.

  • Customer: Elvis from Miami FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 135 of 155 people found this instruction helpful
The motor bearings had stiffened up – classic planned obsolescence.

I could tell the motor was bad, because when I tried to spin the drum by hand, it wouldn't turn in any direction. (Normally it can turn fairly easily.)

(Helpful hint: As you remove screws / parts, place them in a plastic baggie, and write on the baggie from whence they came. This is especially helpful if you have to order parts and then wait a few days for them to arrive.)

You can replace the starter motor without removing the drum, but it is easier if you do remove the drum. Plus, I decided to also replace the drum belt, since it was 9 years old and is a wear part.

UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

1. Pop off the top cover; it has two spring clips at the front, then it hinges up. Disconnect the green grounding wire at the back, then slip the cover off the hinges and set it aside.

2. Remove the front panel:

a. Looking down into the dryer, disconnect the electrical harnesses that go between the front controls and the body. You may have to cut a nylon cable tie to access one or more. (Note that they have shapes that won't allow you to mix them up later). Also, there are two wires that attach to connectors in the top middle of the dryer, which are difficult to get at; you may need a needle nose pliers to pull them. Remember their color-coding for reinstallation.

b. Remove the two phillips screws located about 8 inches from the top, on either side, inside the body, that hold the front panel in place.

c. The front panel is now held in place by spring clips. Pry it gently to pop it loose. It will hinge out, then you can pull it up. Notice how the front piece has felt pads that serve to hold the front of the drum; you'll line it up the same way when it goes back together. Set the front panel aside.

3. Remove the rear motor vent plate.
a. It is at the back, lower right of the dryer (which is lower left once you're behind it). 2 phillips screws hold it in place.

b. Now look inside to see the motor and belt. Memorize how the belt feeds around the motor pulley and the larger, white plastic tensioner pulley. Notice how the rear motor bearing sits in a half-round metal plate, held down by a spring clip. (Make a drawing if you like.)

c. Move the spring- loaded tensioner arm to take tension off the belt, then slip the belt off the motor pulley.

d. Notice that the tensioner pulley, arm and spring are all held in place by the spring. Note that the tensioner pulley can slip off its shaft. Note these things for when you put it all back together later.

e. Now undo the tensioner arm spring and remove the arm, pulley and spring. Set them aside.


4. Remove the drum:

a. There is a yellowish plastic block at the top front of the open dryer body that holds the drum. Take it out with a phillips screwdriver.

b. Slip the now un-tensioned belt off the drum, to the back, so it hangs over the heater element body. You can leave it there for now, so you don't forget to install it before you put everything back together. If you're going to replace the belt, now is a good time to do so. (Check the length of the new belt against the old one, to make sure they're the same.)

c. Now you can remove the drum. It uses a center ball in a socket joint at the back to hold it in place. Use a screwdriver to lever upward on the back of the drum. This will pop the ball up, and then you can pull the drum out from the front.

5. Clean it up.
Now is a very good time to vacuum out any lint in the fan area, inside the dryer body, etc. Also consider removing the lint trap assembly from the dryer front ( 2 phillips screws) and vacuuming it out as well.

6. Remove the motor.

a. First, remove the fan that's attached to the front of the motor. Use a socket (7/8", I think) to unscrew the fan from the front of the motor shaft. IMPORTANT: The fan has a plastic hex nut sh

The most-used control knob on the face of the dryer wore out.

  • Customer: Jim from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 74 of 135 people found this instruction helpful
After entering the info on the dryer into the PartSelect site, it brought up a list of parts, and a diagram showing where all parts go on the dryer.
Clicking on the knob description brought up a photo which proved beyond a shadow of doubt that this was the correct part. At a cost of $5, who wouldn't pay for the expedited freight also? For 6 months we've kept the pliars on top of the dryer to use in place of the worn out knob. Don't lose the address to this site. Jim

Stripped knob

  • Customer: Celeste from Forney TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 74 of 136 people found this instruction helpful
Once the part was located all I needed to do was pop the old part off and pop the new part on. It took less than a minute from start to finish. It also saved me an $80 service call.

Dryer would heat initially then cool down

  • Customer: Brett from Monticello MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 44 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
The top of the dryer was easily removed by prying the front up with a screwdriver then tipping it back and off of the mounting brackets. Then the front of the dryer was removed by unscrewing a single screw on each side that held the front to the side panels then pulling the front away from the dryer. Once the front was off, the coils were easily accessible on the bottom left side. A metal bracket held the coils on and was somewhat tough to get the two screws removed on it as they were stuck, but once they were removed the coils easily came out and I was able to replace them in minutes. The whole job took 15-20 minutes and I now have a dryer that heats through the entire drying cycle.

Knobs & Handle Broken

  • Customer: Kevin from Cedar Rapids IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 69 of 131 people found this instruction helpful
Did repairs by hand, took longer to open box and remove packaging that to install the parts. Total time from mail box to repair complete- 3 Minutes.

Felt pulling apart and glide not secured

  • Customer: Timothy from Pensacola FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 37 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
For the glide, I want to advise people that to replace the entire glide you need to order two front drum glide parts as each is only half.

First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels. Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.

Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.

For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.

Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.

When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.

Dryer would heat only on the initial start. Burner would not light again until completely cooled down. The ignitor would energize, but no gas would flow for ignition.

  • Customer: Bruce from Burnsville MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 27 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
1. Pry Dryer top up and off the clips. (Front of Dryer)
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on the inside of front panel.
3. Lift front panel up and set off to the side
4. Removed 2 phillips screws with short handled phillips driver that hold the gas valve coil bracket in place.
5. Unplugged and removed both coils, installed new coils and bracket. Re installed front panel, screws and top.

Had 2-seperate problems; 1st was a high pitch squeel, 2nd was the cover overheating

  • Customer: Gerald from Cumming GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 27 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
The high pitch squeel was the result of a failing drum bearing. It was particularly evident when first turning on the dryer, but became softer as the dryer heated up. In order to replace the drum bearing, I removed the top panel and front door panel.

The top panel was easily taken off by removing 2-screws from the back edge of the panel, and sliding it back to release it from the front panel seam.

The front panel is more involved, but still relatively easy for your average "do-it-yourselfer". I removed the front door panel by first removing the control panel (4-screws; 2 on top and 2 from the back of the panel). I removed 2 cable assemblies from the control panel via connecters (different sizes so didn't need to mark) and 2-wires attached to the large control panel mode selector (I marked these 2-wires). I set aside the control panel. I removed the front door panel by taking off 6-screws (2 on top, 2 on the bottom, and the remaining 2 on the inside of the panel on either side of the drum). After removing these 6-screws, I carefully pulled the front door panel away from the front of the dryer, carefully releasing 4-alignment latches (2 on either side). The front door panel was still electrically attached to the machine so I had to disconnect a couple more wires. I carefully disconnected 2-wires from the door light assembly and 3 more wires from the door switch (I marked the 3-wires on the door switch). I set aside the front door panel.

From the back of the dryer, I removed the small motor access panel on the bottom left corner. This panel also provides access to the drum belt. I released the drum belt from the motor drive wheel by releasing spring tension at the tensioner. The belt can easily be disconnected from the motor drive wheel and tensioner assemblies.

Removal of the drum was now possible. With the front door panel removed, the front of the drum is maintained in place via a small plastic stop on the top crossmember. I removed this stop prior to removing the drum. With one hand, carefully grabbing the belt that is was loosely draped across the back of the drum, and the other hand holding the front lip of the drum, I provided a quick and forceful upward motion to the back of the drum in order to dislodge the drum shaft from the bearing housing assembly. Once this was accomplished, I simple pulled the drum out of the dryer housing via the front of the machine.

The drum bearing repair kit ordered came with the replacement ball bearing, bearing housing, drum shaft, high-temperature grease, and attaching hardware.

I replaced the drum shaft on the drum via the 4-screws accessed on the drum rear panel.

I removed the old bearing/bearing housing via the 2-screws holding it in place. I wasn't too concerned about loosing the small ball bearing as the kit provided me a new one. I generously applied some high-temperature grease to coat the interior lining of the new bearing housing. I also placed a dab on the back seat where the new ball bearing sits. This helped hold the bearing in place while reattaching it. I reinstalled the bearing housing to finish replacing the repair parts.

Reassembly of the drum is in the reverse order. I paid particular attention to making sure the new drum shaft properly seated with the new drum bearing housing.

After reinstalling the drum and while the front door panel was still off the dryer, it was easy to inspect the blower housing. I found the squirrel cage had broken loose from the molded nut that attaches it to the motor shaft. That would explain the heat problem; the heat was not being exhausted through the duct.

THE SQUIRREL CAGE IS REVERSE THREADED. I was unable to remove the nut from the motor shaft as the design encompasses a metal bushing molded into a plastic nut shaped form. The plastic would not hold up to the force I was applying trying to loosen the squirrel cage. So I ended up removing the entire motor and blower housing assembly from the base

press start button, machine would just hum

  • Customer: Robert from Mt. Horeb WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
took off back vent panel, removed belt from idler pulley. tried motor again to see if it would work under no load. motor was not seized just would not run. concluded it was the motor. I removed the 2 mounting screws from the back of motor area. from there removed top of dryer and bolts for the front door panel. propped open the door panel to get to the fan housing and 2 front motor mount screws. disconnect the fan wires. pull out fan and motor assembly from front of dryer. I used a medium sized locking wrench behind the pulley and then mounted the wrench (attached behind the pulley in a vise) from there I was able to use a socket to take off the plastic nut at the end of the fan. Notice that it is a reverse thread so don't strip it. dismount motor from bracket and reasmble with new motor. all the steps in reverse. Since the motor was out it just made sense to replaced the belt at this time. took about 45 minutes to disassemble and just over an hour to get it all back together. Make sure you clean out the lint box from inside the dryer.. over the years it will accumulate a lot of nasty dust bunnies. check that all the surfaces are clear of dust and the back of the vent pipe to..

Dryer drum would squeak and squeal until warmed up, but progressively got worse as the days drug on.

  • Customer: Chad from Glyndon MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

Dryer squealed loudly

  • Customer: Glenn from Fort Worth TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 18 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.

Drying times continued to increase over several months until finally dryer wouldn't dry any more.

  • Customer: Francisco from Arvada CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I did not troubleshoot my gas dryer to find the exact part that needed to be replaced. Instead, I did some research and found that the ignition coils are an extremely common problem.

The top panel of my gas dryer is attached by two snap clips located in the front, about three inches in from each side. I slid a butter knife in the space between the top panel and the front panel to push the clips and release the top panel. Front panel is attached by two screws, one on each side. I removed the front panel to access the heating system on the bottom left of my dryer and immediately saw the two ignition coils with a metal cover on top of them. Removing the metal cover was a little difficult because the two screws holding it in place were stuck. Once the metal cover is off, the two coils simply slide out. On my dryer, the bigger coil had a metal sleeve inside the core. I kept it and used it with my replacement parts.

The most difficult part of the repair was figuring out how to take appart the dryer to access the heating system. Now, the ol' lady is bragging to her friends that I didn't just fix the dryer, but that i've actually made it better than when it was new ;-)
All Instructions for the SGR351HS1
1-15 of 366