SGR341AS0 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!

I did not troubleshoot my gas dryer to find the exact part that needed to be replaced. Instead, I did some research and found that the ignition coils are an extremely common problem.

The top panel of my gas dryer is attached by two snap clips located in the front, about three inches in from each side. I slid a butter knife in the space between the top panel and the front panel to push the clips and release the top panel. Front panel is attached by two screws, one on each side. I removed the front panel to access the heating system on the bottom left of my dryer and immediately saw the two ignition coils with a metal cover on top of them. Removing the metal cover was a little difficult because the two screws holding it in place were stuck. Once the metal cover is off, the two coils simply slide out. On my dryer, the bigger coil had a metal sleeve inside the core. I kept it and used it with my replacement parts.

The most difficult part of the repair was figuring out how to take appart the dryer to access the heating system. Now, the ol' lady is bragging to her friends that I didn't just fix the dryer, but that i've actually made it better than when it was new ;-)

remove the rear lower left vent cover to get access the belt tensioner and pulley. then pop the top section up with a flathead screwdriver in the front, freeing it from the popclips. Then remove two screws from the back side of the front section releasing the drum. loop the belt around the drum.

UNPLUG the appliance. After removing the top of the dryer the front is easily removed. To make life simple I disconnected the wire harrness at the quick disconnect and placed the door/front away from the workspace. I removed the bracket holding the coils in place and replaced the old with the new coils. replaced the front and top panels and pugged it in! Good as new!! I originally ordered the wrong part and PART'S SELCET.COM refunded my money no problem! I will bookmark this site and use it again.

first you had to take back top panel off remove wires from switch turn old switch to the right pull it out then connect wires to new switch put switch back in screw back panel back on very easy 10 minutes tops thank you

Fixed it eventually with part PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). See separate story.

The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner unit but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.

This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.

This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.

watch the video first very helpful, was a lot easier than I thought.Dryer was pretty old but I figured what the heck.I replaced front lower basket seal,drum glide,dryer seal,belt,and bearing.Worst part was removing old top and bottom basket seals, a lot of elbow grease.I wouldn't have attempted it if not for the video. Dryer works great thanks partslect I will deffinitly shop here again very pleased, hope to get a few more years out of it.

Disconnected power and vent then pulled away from wall. You will need to move the dryer away from the wall to replace the ground bearing and retaining plate and/or the dryer belt. Removed top of dryer, disconnected wiring harness' then removed the two screws that hold the front panel on the dryer. After removing the two screws, lift out and then up on the front panel. This should remove it from the retaining clips on the bottom. To remove the dryer belt, remove access panel on rear/ bottom left of dryer. Just inside the panel you will see a tension pulley held by a spring. Use your hands to relieve the tension on the belt and remove the belt from the bottom pulleys. Now go to the side of the dryer and attempt to lift up on the front and back of the drum to remove it from the rear bearing guide. There is a slot that it rides in and it only needs to come up about an inch or so. If you cannot get the the rear bearing free this way, you will have to get inside the drum and remove the three screws in the back of the drum. There are two sets of screws, remove the inside circle of screws. At this point, the drum should slide out the front of the dryer. Use aSharpie to mark the center of the top guide on the metal then use a chisel or putty knife to remove the old guides from the front panel of the dryer. You probably won't be able to remove all of the old glue, but make sure you remove all of the old felt. Lay the panel front down and apply glue to the new top guide. Line up center of top guide with the mark you made earlier. Clamp in place. I used several spring clamps, but clothes pins will work. Now put glue on the bottom guide and clamp it in place. The bevel on the bottom guide will point to the back of the dryer. Now, while your dryer is disassembled and the glue is drying CLEAN IT OUT!!! You'll have no better opportunity to thoroughly clean this thing. Remove old bearing guide from the back of the dryer and replace with the new one. This will include the new grounding bearing and retaining plate. Apply high temp grease (generously) to the new bearing guide. Remove old rear drum bearing from drum and install new one. Take old belt off drum and put new one on. Place drum back in dryer cabinet. Be sure new belt doesn't snag or hang on anything. Guide the new rear drum bearing into the groove on the top of the guide and push down into place. It should be a snap ;-). GO to back of dryer and reinstall new dryer belt around pulleys. I put a little of the high temp grease on the guide pulley shaft on the tensioner. Replace access panel. Reinstall front panel by placing bottom back into the two retaining clips and then use your free hand to lift up the drum and guide it into place around the new guides while pushing the top of the panel into place. Replace top screws in front panel and reconnect wiring harness'. Replace top of dryer, slide dryer into place and reattach vent. Hope thos helps someone. It really wasn't very hard.

replaced old filter, only to find that the new one had the same issue. After closer examination, I determined the filter guide that screws into place, which I had removed earlier to clean lint out, did not hold the lint casing correctly. I removed and reinstalled the piece that has the metal moisture sensors, and replaced it, ensure both screws held the lint casing as it should. Now I have two lint filters that fit perfectly! So, if you ever remove the piece wtih the metal sensors, make sure that the lint casing is screwed in correctly when replacing.

First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

First of all, let me thank your wonder web site and service.


Here is the step-by-step procedure:


Unplugged the power.

Accessed the heater assembly from the front left lower corner.

Turned off the small gas valve.

Unscrewed the copper nut connecting the small gas valve and the heater assembly.

Disconnected the 3 wire connectors.

Unscrewed 2 screws under the heater assembly.

Took out the heater assembly.

Unscrewed the screw for the igniter assembly.

Installed the new igniter assembly. Be very careful with the M shaped coil. I broke a new one. That is why I have order the same part twice. But it still cost me less for hiring a tech or buying a new dryer.

Carefully put the heater assembly back into it position.

Connected the gas connector.

Secured the heater assembly to the bottom of the dryer with 2 screws.

Connected 3 wire connectors.

Turned on the small gas valve.

Plugged in and ran a test.

It worked!!.

Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body

This is actually a white consolidated IND. brand, but that wasn't on your list. Be sure to check your tensioner pully if you hear squealing coming from the dryer. I changed the felt ring and the support bearing before realizing that my pully bushing was the cause of the noise. If you have squealing then spray a little wd40 on the bushing and shaft, if the noise stops, then you found the smoking gun. Replace the pulley. Unhook the spring and it comes right off. No tools needed.

Waited only 2 days for part. That was with REGULAR delivery. It usually takes weeks to get out to REMOTE northern Minnesota.
Unstacked the dryer took off the top. 2 screws to open front. Pulled 3 drum mounting screws. Pulled the drum. Removed the pivot. Cleaned (blowed and vacuumed everywhere). Cleaned the pivot receptacle. Relubed the pivot with high temp lube. Removed 2 motor assy mounting screws. Screwed off the squirrel cage. Swapped the motor. Remounted new motor assy. Looped belt over drum. Remounted the drum. Closed the front. Closed the top. Opened the belt access plate on the rear. Looped new belt over the tensioner. Closed the access plate. Restacked dryer. Turned it on. Sounds like brand new. Less than 2 hours. Saved more than $800. More than I generally make an hour! Actually I saved a lot more than $800 because I probably would have had to buy both the washer and dryer stack so it could have been around $2500.
Everything I ordered arrived in 1 box and all parts are right!
Now in my spare time I need to replace the bearings on the old motor and I'll be ready for the next time, in another 10 years!

unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.