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Models > SGR341AQ0 > Instructions

SGR341AQ0 Westinghouse Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for SGR341AQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SGR341AQ0
76-90 of 402
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Drum would not spin

  • Customer: garland from Morganton, NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!

replaced broken belt

  • Customer: Shelia from Elizabethtown, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Romoved front from dryer . Then loosened tub , slid belt on , reached in back and put belt on pulley , turned tub till belt went into place and reassembled dryer all with the help of a 3 year old and an8 year old,so in my oppinion it was one of the easiest fixes i've ever done!

Gas dryer wouldn't stay hot.

  • Customer: David from Petaluma, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I definitely would not have tried to do this had it not been for the other testimonials written here. But it sounded so easy, I had to just try it (the repair man estimated that with parts and labor, we would be looking at somewhere between $250 and $300!).

The repair itself took less than 15 min, but I spend a good deal of time looking around the garage for a few screwdrivers and my socket set (me and tools don't meet too often). I could simply pry up the top cover on the dryer with my hands, then got it all the way up after removing two screws from the lint trap and undoing this really annoying wire connector thing. From there the front panel lifted off. To remove the drum, just had to release the tensonier on the belt, and it came right out. From this point it was really obvious where the replacement parts would be going. A few screws later, and I could swap the parts, and put humpty dumpty back together again.

It works!!!

Dryer making horrible squeaking sound when running

  • Customer: SHARON from SUMMERVILLE, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

My igniter seemed to be bad, but I really didn't know for sure. After asking advice from one of the subscribers at partselect, I decided to give the repair a try.

  • Customer: randall from Athens, TN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 4 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The appliance is gas, which made me a little nervous. However, knowing that I had the gas off, I carefully began disassembly. The burner unit is a very simple set up and within a few minutes I had the entire assembly out and noticed that in fact the igniter was broken. I ordered a new one from partselect.com and it was delivered in 2 days! The worst part of the assembly was when I accidentally bumped the new igniter against the underside of the dryer and broke the brand new one!!!..So, I ordered a second igniter and 2 days later installed it in about 30 minutes.

Motor locked

  • Customer: Patrick from Littleton, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I determined the problem was the fan wheel and housing. I located the part on partsselect.com, Ordered it and installed the afternoon I got it in the mail. Perfect fit.

I have used partsselect before, always had great luck, great prices, always have the exact part.

Latch on dryer no longer worked

  • Customer: chris from dallas, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

dryer wouldn't tumble with normally large load - very noisy when it did tumble

  • Customer: Rebecca from Kansas City, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I disassembled the dryer using instructions from the following website for White Westinghouse (pictures really helped)
After removing the drum, I first noticed that the grouding ball was sitting on the bottom of the dryer (along with much lint). I then saw that the bracket for bearing support cup and the bearing support cup were both worn well past use. The bracket had been worn down about 1/4" to the SE with matching wear on the bearing support cup. There was a hole in the bottom of the bearing support cup (hence the grouding ball on the floor of dryer).
I installed the new idler pulley assembly and completely vacuumed out the dryer (I didn't know lint could get so stiff!). I installed the new parts from the kit once received (and the new belt bought previously) and the dryer works great. I'm so used to the obnoxious squealing that it seems odd to be so quiet.

The internet is a magnificent thing!

Dryer squeak during tumbling, worn front drum glide

  • Customer: Robert from Portsmouth, RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

Dryer was snagging clothes between the drum and frame

  • Customer: David from Auburndale, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.

No heat.

  • Customer: Steven from San Francisco, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
As others have described in more detail... I lifted the top, removed the 2 screws holding the front panel (one on each side, inside the control panel on either side - not the easiest to get at, but not too bad), popped the clips holding the front panel in place and removed it. With the front panel off, the location of the coils is obvious (lower left side). The only challenging aspect of this repair is that the 2 screws holding the coils in place are really torqued in so it was crucial to use the exactly correct size screwdriver and not let the screwdriver slip while unscrewing those screws. Actually swapping out the coils took seconds, of course they have to go in exactly the same way as the old ones. I did take a few minutes extra to vacuum out years of lint from the inside of the dryer. Overall, much easier and cheaper than I was expecting and now I know where everything is inside the cabinet.

Temperture switch broke

  • Customer: Steve from Merrick, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the drier, a couple of screws, remove the wires (take a picture of the wires with your cell phone to remember how they go back, twist out the thermostat. Installation is the reverse. A piece of cake.

dryer was leaving brown marks on clothes

  • Customer: Robert from Medina, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
there are several srcews to remove. there are some u dont have to take out but it looks like u do.ease of the front panel and remove the old drum glide,very hard to get of all the felt.check the the bottom guide before u order parts if possible(i could've replaced mine,but didnt have time to check it first).when glue back in place follow directions exact and clamp.allow glue to dry as long as u can. mine set overnight it was nice and dry(if u dont you'll be doing it all over again)replace everything as you took them off.all works great perfect fit!!

Brown stains on clothes

  • Customer: Peter from Topsham, ME
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the door and replace the upper glide and the lower seal. The repair was easy.

Dryer ripped and left brown marks on clothes

  • Customer: Cory from Fargo, ND
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
This was a simple repair. Before I ordered the parts I had read several of the "repair stories" on this site, plus my neighbor explained to me the process. So I had a good idea of what I was getting into.

I am not real sure how long it took because I was watching a football game while I was making the repair, but I would guess if I did it straight through it would be about 1 hr.

Replacing the Drum Glide and Lower Basket Seal
1) Pulled dryer out from the wall
2) Unplugged Dryer
3) Pop the top off the dryer. Insert a screw driver in the crack right at the corners to pry
the top off.
4) My dryer had a quick connector for all the wiring (which I found half way through the
repair) that allowed me to disconnect all the wires leading to the door. If you can find
that disconnect that so you can easily remove the door & front panel.
5) Removed two screws holding the front panel on.
6) Remove the front panel. Once the 2 screws are removed the only thing holding my
front panel on were a couple of clips.
7) Removed the Drum Glide (top) & Lower Basket Seal (bottom) around the door frame in
the front panel. This is the worst part because you have to scrape a lot of the glue
and it takes a little while to do this.
8) Glue the Drum Glide. I used some spring clamps to hold it in place. Glue did come with
the Drum Glide (but not the Lower Basket Seal)
9) Glue the Lower Basket Seal. Since I only had 4 spring clamps I waited until the Drum
Glide was secure. So if you have several of these clamps that would be best.
** if not replacing the belt skip that section.

Replacing Dryer Drum Belt
I took a lot of the people's advise and replaced the belt while I had the dryer apart. But if you are only replacing the belt perform steps 1 - 6 above first.
1) Remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Mine had for screws.
2) Remove the belt. There is a spring loaded pulley that you just move to one side so the
belt will loosen up enough to remove.
3) Place the new belt on. I started in the front and moved the belt over the drum to the
back. Then moved to the back of the dryer and through the access panel placed the
belt over the pulleys.

Thats pretty much it. I barely got dirty. Oh, while I was in there I cleaned as much lint as I could. That was the dirty part. Now all you have to do is put it back together.
1) Reconnect the front panel, and wire harness.
2) Plug it back in.

If you are wondering why I didn't replace the bearing, I didn't have any grease and the part fit but didn't look exactly like the current one. And the current one looked ok. Since this was my first attempt at fixing a dryer; I decided not to press my luck.
All Instructions for the SGR341AQ0
76-90 of 402