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SF396PEPW0
SF396PEPW0 Whirlpool Range - Overview
Sections of the SF396PEPW0
[Viewing 7 of 7]
Manuals & Care Guides for SF396PEPW0
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Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$11.73
In Stock
Flat Style Oven Igniter
PartSelect #: PS387058
Manufacturer #: 786324
The flat style oven igniter is also known as a range oven igniter. The function of this part is to glow extremely hot in order to ignite the gas for the oven burner. With this flat style oven igniter,...
$58.40
In Stock
Insulation
PartSelect #: PS11750415
Manufacturer #: WPW10208653
This insulation is also known as oven wrap insulation, and is used in conjunction with your range. Its purpose is to be installed in between the oven and the cabinets that surround it. This will help ...
$60.71
In Stock
Hex Nut
PartSelect #: PS11742711
Manufacturer #: WP488130
This hex nut is an authentic Whirlpool part that is sourced directly from the original equipment manufacturer, and will fit a variety of appliances including ovens, microwaves, refrigerators, air cond...
$9.56
In Stock
BOWL-DRIP
PartSelect #: PS11744751
Manufacturer #: WP786333
This single square chrome drip pan has sides measuring just about eight inches. Its center hole has a diameter of just over four inches wide. Use this drip pan for your Amana brand gas range. Sold individually.
$11.88
Special Order
Surface Burner Knob
PartSelect #: PS2191940
Manufacturer #: Y0302434
Sold individually. This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
No Longer Available
Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS397792
Manufacturer #: 866294
This light switch is located in the door of the oven.
No Longer Available
Gas Valve Burner Orifice - #58 LPG
PartSelect #: PS2033788
Manufacturer #: 31864901
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for SF396PEPW0
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Common Symptoms of the SF396PEPW0
[Viewing 5 of 5]Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven wouldn't heat. Glow ignitor was weak and wouldn't ignite flame.
After shutting off the gas and removing the oven door, which simply slid off of the hinges, I removed the oven plate. The ignitor was attached to the manifold. I removed that and noted the wires were attached back behind a hole in the back of the oven. I thought I would have to access them from the back but when I pulled on them I was
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able to reach them from the front. I was surprised to find plastic lugs covering the wire ends, rather than ceramic. I attached the new ignitor wires and reused the plastic lugs, as no ceramic ones came with the new ignitor. I carefully slid the new ignitor back into the cage/shield attached to the manifold and replaced the manifold. I then turned the gas back on and tested the ignitor (which worked perfectly) before replacing the oven plate. The repair took less than 30 minutes, but my wife and I thoroughly cleaned the door and interior while we had it apart. The hardest part was getting the door back on the hinges, but this too was accomplished after several attempts. The oven heats up beautifully now.
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Parts Used:
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John from Niles, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to
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fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.
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Wendy from Red Hook, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Oven would not light
After the appliance store told me that the repair would cost about $500 to fix an oven that wouldn't light we didn't have the money to repair it or buy a new one so we went without an oven (only the oven) for almost 1 year. The igniter would glow but the oven would not light. my son found your site online and passed it on to me. It was so
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simple it's almost funny. I opened the oven door and removed the burner cover. Then reached in and removed the three screws that held the igniter in place. Turned off the gas, disconedted it so I could pull the stove out to get behind it. Found the wires to the igniter and undid the 2 wire nuts. Removed the igniter cover from the old one and slid it onto the new one. Be very careful because the igniter is very delicate and be sure to not toucjh the heating eliment. Slid the new part into place, reinstalled the screws, connected the new wires with the old wire nuts, reconnected the gas and turned on the oven. BAM it worked like a charm.
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Parts Used:
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Rick from Laguna HIlls, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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