Models > SF385PEEQ0 > Instructions

SF385PEEQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for SF385PEEQ0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SF385PEEQ0
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F3 Error message

  • Customer: Charles from Brecksville OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 79 of 101 people found this instruction helpful
Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the string still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!

The lower burner would not ignite.

  • Customer: Mark from Rego Park NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 41 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter was not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.

Front burner would not light. The igniter was cracked and the spark would not jump to the burner head.

  • Customer: Marilyn from Antioch IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 33 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the range from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I removed the grates, burner caps and the burners from the cooktop. Using a plastic putty knife, on either side of the range in the front I pushed the retaining clips to allow the cooktop to be raised. I used a short board to keep the cooktop open. I cut the wire leading to the broken igniter and removed the old igniter. I put the new ignitor in the mounting hole. The igniter wire connects to the spark module which is in the back of the range. To access the module I removed three top screws on the backplate(you have to get behind the range) and removed the top access panel. I used the old wire to pull the new wire through to the module. I disconnected the old wire from the module and connected the new one.

Reassembly was easy. I replaced the backplate and screws, lowered the cooktop, replaced the burners, caps and grates. I plugged the power cord back in and slid the range back.

surface burner igniter insulation broken, in-op

  • Customer: David from Reedley CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
Broken ignitor wire had been previously removed to determine part number. Exact length was not availible (37"), but similiar unit (36") (one inch shorter) worked with zero problems. To re-install replacement wire/ignitor, I removed all four grates, and surface burners (allows top surface to pivot upwards.) Raised front of stove top surface by pushing in side, hold-down clips, using butter knife. Propped up surface with board. Insert clip end of igniter lead through hole in top surface and led wire back and towards passage to rear plug-in terminal location. Removed upper, rear sheet metal cover plate (must pull entire range away from wall.) Fed thin/ some-what-stiff safety wire down through plastic protection sleeve (all four ignitor wires go through the sleeve.) Wrapped wire around clip on end of igniter lead, pulled igniter wire up through plastic protector sleeve, disconnected pull through wire, and pushed connector clip on ignitor wire into ignitor terminal block. The rest was nothing more than screwing things back together in reverse order.

Socket Light had a bad thread

  • Customer: Edmund from Emporium PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range

  • Customer: Wendy from Red Hook NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

door front shattered

  • Customer: Jon from Ironwood MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Went very easy--clean up was the worst part-the service was excellent with fast delivery.

drawer broke and annoying my wife

  • Customer: John from Jamestown OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.

Top burners would not light. No "clicking" .

  • Customer: Carolyn from Bellingham MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
My husband and I replaced the igniter module, following directions we found online. We removed the old one, replaced it with the new one, and thankfully everything is working great!

trim broke while cleaning door handle

  • Customer: Diann from Mesa AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
well had I known that the trim did not go over the glass, the project would have been easy, but I thought the trim held the glass in, but that was not the case. After much juggling discovered that the trim went under the glass, and at that point the instilation was very easy.

lower part of trim was badly rusted

  • Customer: Matthew from Marlborough MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the trim by unscrewing 5 screws being careful not to drop glass panel. Had to scrape and paint over rust stains on the glass panel. After paint dried reinstalled with new trim (remodeled part only required 3 screws). Just a little tricky getting screws started while holding up the glass panel.

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

oven would not ignite

  • Customer: Gary from Caldwell TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
removed broiler pan
removed oven bottom plate
removed burner cover
unplug and remove igniter
reinstall igniter
clean and reassemble

oven door shattered--

  • Customer: Sam from Kingsland TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Since it fell out, we didn't know how to put it back in--after several hours of frustration, thinking the glass was too big--we went to appliance store and looked at a stove and found out the glass went on the outside with only a groove and handle holding it in place. After that, it took about 30 minutes to complete.

Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb

  • Customer: Lewis from Chapin SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
All Instructions for the SF385PEEQ0
1-15 of 92