Models > SDE3606AYW > Instructions

SDE3606AYW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for SDE3606AYW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SDE3606AYW
76-90 of 477
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Lint Filter Air Dust Assembly broke inside the dryer.

  • Customer: Loren from Woodland Hills, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I believe the best procedure would be to start at the very bottom of the machine - there are two sheet metal screws in the bottom panel. Remove the bottom panel.

Now, there are two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the front door panel that need to be removed. Remove front panel by pulling down to dislodge from plastic pins aligning it to the top panel.

Now the air duct assembly is accessible. From outside machine remove two sheet metal screws holding lower air duct frame. From inside the dryer opening, remove three screws holding the upper frame. Remove old air duct assembly and vaccuum machine.

New air duct assembly is in one piece, so only three inside screws are needed to support it. Make certain the screws are seated well or clothes could get hung up on the screw heads. Reinstall front door panel and bottom panel.

Doing it this way should make the job around 20 to 30 minutes.

wornout lint filter

  • Customer: Loretta from Lincoln, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
There was no repair, just replacing the old, wornout lint filter. But I wanted to thank you for the ease in finding the part and for your prompt delivery. I really appreciate that. If we need any other parts we will order them from you.
Thanks again!

Lint Duct Assemby Replacement

  • Customer: Charles from Baltimore, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
(Used joe From Beacon Falls Instructions)
UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST
1. There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer. Remove these bolts with a socket wrench and their brackets. Set aside.
2. Lift up rear of dryer top a few inches to locate two metal flanges on the front top of the dryer. Lower the back side. Now on the front of the dryer, insert the flat head of a large screwdriver (cover flat head with rag to prevent scratches) where the flanges are located and pry upward, one side at a time. It does not take much pressure until the top “pops” open. Repeat prying motion on other side of front dry to free the top.
3. The top of the dryer is now loose and can be slid backwards enough to see down the front of the dryer. Locate two screws (one on each side) inside the front panel a few inches down. Use the same socket size with wrench to remove these two screws.
4. Notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side. With care, these can remain attached. Alternately, take the time to write down the color and order and remove these now
5. Pull the front panel towards you slightly and lift up. The front panel will now come free and can be set aside. If you did not remove the wires, the front will need to be propped up close enough to the dryer so that the wires are not ripped out.
6. Remove the three Phillips Head screws located inside the dryer drum that attach the Lint Duct Assembly. Pull out the old assembly. Vacuum out if necessary.
7. Insert the new Lint Duct Assembly and secure with the three screws.
8. Reattach dryer front and top.
9. Done.

Squeaky Maytag Dryer

  • Customer: Brian from Boyertown, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I went to RepairClinic.com & FixYa.com for some great advice. I searched the internet for the parts. PartSelect.com was the most inexpensive. Delivery was good. Using the repairman's manual I found on the internet I followed the steps to remove each panel, in order. The wiring was the most bothersome, but okay to resolve; write it down and pull it off! I don't think the rollers, in the back, were bad. The tension idler was extremely worn. I tightened the tension idler bracket at the base. I did need to use an O-Ring Spreader to get all the rollers off and on. Although there were more panels to remove than older models, it was easier! Wrap the belt around the drum before reinstalling. The belt will loop around the drive & tensioner relatively easy. Replace the rubber seal around the drum & replace all the panels. Things are quieter now than I can remember in a long time.

broken lint screen

  • Customer: Marlo from DeKalb, IL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
took one out - put new one in

Belt Was Broken

  • Customer: Richard from Kealakekua,, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unable to find a repair manual or accurate diagram, I forged ahead and removed the top and front panels of the dryer. It took two tries to figure out how to thread the belt (nine of my ten thumbs kept getting in the way!), but after a coffee break, the job came together, and I've taken the clothesline down!

Looked inside the dryer and the lint duct was melted thru and pieces were flying around loose inside the dryer.

  • Customer: Steven from Ormond Beach, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Once I was able to take apart the door assembly, I was able to determine that I needed the lint duct assembly. The parts website was very helpful with diagrams and explanations so that I could order the part with confidence. Since laundry is so important in our house I paid for expedited shipping. The part arrived in Florida less than 24 hours after it was ordered and soon after it was installed and the dryer was working properly.

Noisy drum support rollers

  • Customer: Remy from Santa Maria, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1-Unplugged drier
2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws
3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws
4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to.
5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws
***** at this point the drum is exposed *****
6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum!
7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers.
8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller.
9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws
10- reinstall new roller support
11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light!
12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards!
13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part!
14-repeat for the other drum roller.
**** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard!
**** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it *****
15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires.
16-re-plug the drier and test

Replaced door switch

  • Customer: Joseph from Colts Neck, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

Load noise from dryer

  • Customer: Mike from Pacifica, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Had to figure out how to open the dryer - bottom screws in front and work up, removed the drum and found the fan blade was broken. Had some difficulty removing the fanblade from the motor shaft but after that the new one was easy to install. I did need help to place the belt and drum back into place. as one person has to hold the belts on the pulley while the other adjusts the belt while putting the drum back into place.

Squealing idler pulley

  • Customer: Dave from Brighton, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Propped the machine up in the front, removed the front panel, the door assembly, and the front drum support. Use a Sharpie to mark wire positions. This will help during re-assembly. To get the drum out, you first have to remove the belt from the motor pulley. Drum slides right out. You will need snap-ring pliers to remove the pulley from the idler arm. I also replaced the drive belt because it was cheap, and always a good idea to replace it when you are this far into the machine if it is a few years old. Re-assemble in the reverse order of disassembly. An easy fix for the average do-it-yourself person.

No heat

  • Customer: Dan from Hawley, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the lower front cover. Unplugged two wires and removed two screws in element, slid element out, removed two contacts and attached them to th new element, slid element back in place, inserted two screws re-attached two wires.
Very easy!

Air duct assembly broken.

  • Customer: Thomas from Summerville, SC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I used a large flat head screwdriver to lift top up, then located 2 screws in the top right and left hand side to remove front. Remove the three Phillip Head Screws that holds the assy in place slide out. Mine had 2 metal pieces with wires. I simply unplugged and took metal pieces and installed in the new assy. Remove excess lint put front back on lowered lid and done! 15-20 minutes

Cycling Thermostat Failed

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Morris, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
DIAGNOSTICS: Unplug dryer to reset controls. Remove lower cover. Plug back in. Start dryer. If flame starts and goes out in a few seconds, probably the cycling thermostat (located centrally near bottom of dryer) is bad. It fits in the center of the thermostat heater (not replaced). Use the on-line schematic. I reset the controls (as above) again and jumpered the cycling thermostat. This time the flame stayed on. I turned off dryer before High Limit Thermal Fuse could blow out. Only a trained electrician should do the above.
REPAIRS: Decided to remove main cover, to get better angle on thermostat screws. Unplugged. Removed door first. Be gentle with wires. Be careful with drum, it will simply fall out if jarred. Remove two screws for cycling thermostat. Remove wires, replace cycling thermostst. Reassemble. Be sure drum is still on rollers on back and anti-friction strips in front.
SHORTCUT: If you use an articulated socket wrench on the thermostat screws, you can save your self the trouble of removing the front cover, door, and possibly drum.

The dryer made a random grinding/rubbing noise during operation.

  • Customer: Timothy from Hardeeville, SC
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the lower access panel, I observed the drum and belt and saw it turning freely. The support rollers in the back turned freely and were in good condition as well. At odd intervals the unit made a humming or grinding noise, and i decided to check the blower wheel (the other rotating part in the system). I found that the central hub of the wheel (which is made of a nylon like plastic) had sheared off from the wheel itself. I ordered a new part and started to remove the old wheel. **NOTE** many of the stories I read described how this part would have a reverse thread, it did not and that cost me an extra 30 minutes to figure out (the new part had arrows showing the correct direction to put on and remove - the original didn't). Once everything was cleaned and reassembled, I started the dryer again, but got no heat. I had previously replaced the heating element, so I thought my wiring was wrong. That wasn't the problem, but a hint from this site about checking the incoming wiring was the solution, my ground wire had come off the terminal in the back of the dryer and I wasn't getting the volatge across the element that it required. With the ground wire back in place, everything worked fine.
All Instructions for the SDE3606AYW
76-90 of 477