SAV405DEWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

Spin cycle sounded like freight train, bad bearing, apparently they all fail the same way, this revised parts kit should prevent premature failure in future.

The following is easy for an experienced mechanic of any type, fully doable by an accomplished DYI'er, between this writeup and the kit instructions (which I do not fully follow) you should be fine. Probably avoid this task if you aren't either of the aforementioned.

Remove lower pannel, top pannel, lift top back. Remove fill hose to outer tub, clear tube to outer tub. Remove entire outer cabinet from base, exposing base and tub. Remove augur assy by popping off cap removing inner bolt, lifting augur out. Remove top of outer tub cap assy by pressing down where each latch is and gently prying latch open with screwdriver. Remove bolts holding in inner tub and remove inner tub. Unscrew the pastic nut on transmission shaft using channel locks (counterclockwise from top), don't worry about destroying this part since a new one is in the kit. Remove (pry off with your hands, don't worry about breaking it) the 'lint filter' (looks like a frisbee) and trash it. Remove the large (about 8")aluminum hub (that the inner tub bolts to) by unscrewing counterclockwise. No special tool needed, just use air hammer if available against one of the T shaped castings to get it loose, otherwise use a drift and hammer same way. Don't worry about messing up the part since a new one is in the kit. Remove the outer tub drain hose, remove six screws holding outer tub, lift outer tub out. Turn outer tub upside down and use a wide crowbar/nail puller to CAREFULLY pry out the bearing/seal assy from the bottom of the tub. Take your time working your way completely around the bearing/seal several times so it doesn't get too crooked while removing it. Clean everything thoroughly. Inspect the area of the bottom of outer tub where you removed the bearing/seal. If all is well and there are no gouges, get it wet with clean water and then carefully press the new bearing/seal assy in with the heal of the palm of your hand, working your way around it so it doesn't get crooked while pressing in. Do not use sealer (unless there are gouges) and do not hammer this. Make sure it is fully seated in the outer tub. Do reverse to put everything back together. I tightened the aluminum hub the same way I loosened it, no problem. There are some rubber plugs in the kit to install in some holes in the tub, scrape or clean any gunk off the inner tub around these holes so the rubber plugs will seat properly. Carefully snug the plastic nut with channelocks by gripping it from the top as opposed to the side (so the fins don't break). Note there is a small o-ring on the transmission shaft to change before replacing the augur. Nice and quiet after the repair, hopefully the new kit (and trashing the 'lint filter') makes it last longer... LOL, it's a bit disturbing seeing the gunk under the augur knowing that has been there all this time while 'cleaning' the laundry! I'll probably start removing the augur every so often to clean under there.

1. I unplugged the machine. Using a socket wrench set, I removed the washer housing (bottom, front and sides) and flipped over the top to its service position. This exposes all the inner parts of the washer.
2. I pulled out the softener cup, unbolted the auger using a socket wrench with a long adaptor. I then pulled out the auger, exposing the "Seal Nut" and bottom of the inner basket (metal)where the transmission arm rises through.
3. I removed the seal nut using the hub (or spanner) wrench, which I had purchased from the Home Depot for $9.00;
and removed the bolts of the inner basket using a socket wrench. I unclipped the large plastic ring which holds together the inner metal basket and the outer plastic tub. This ring sits on top of both. I then removed all the counter-balance springs attached around the tub assembly.
4. I pulled out the inner basket exposing a metal disc called the "hub", which holds the inner tub in place.
5. Using a large flat screwdriver and a hammer, I tapped on the "T" shaped protrusions around the hub to loosen the hub, as it is tightly screwed onto the tub. Remember that the hub is "uncrewed" counter-clockwise. I didn't take much care in tapping the hub because I knew that this part will be replaced.
5. I then unscrewed the hub using the hub wrench.
6. I carefully pulled out the inner tub throught the transmission arm.
7. I inverted the tub, placing it on a towel on the floor (I didn't want to crack the lip). Using a flat screwdriver (or a nail puller), I slowly pried out the triple lip seal and bearing (the metal ring in the center of the tub bottom), making sure that I DO NOT DAMAGE THE PLASTIC BOTTOM OF THE TUB where the bearing sits. At this point, I pushed out all the little plastic lint strainers around the bottom of the tub (as per the instruction leaflet) and replaced them with the provided rubber plugs. YOU WILL HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PLUGS ARE FIRMLY IN PLACE.
8. I now washed the auger (you will find residue/softener build up inside), the inner basket, and the outer tub. I also found dirt, sand, grime and mold in these parts and cleaned them thoroughly. This got rid of that smelly odor that my washer had for quite a while now.
9. I checked and saw water on the transmission disc where the lower bearing is. I figured that the lower bearing needed replacement as well.
10. I removed the lower transmission by removing the blots on the motor, and undid the belt from the pulley and gear.
11. While I had the brake pads exposed, I also applied a touch of automotive brake cleaner and brake spray.
11. I replaced the lower bearing with the new part, reattached the transmission ( I replaced the small "o-ring" on the transmission arm) and the motor and belt.
12. I replaced the tub seal bearing following the instructions provided with the new part.
13. I put the tub back, screwed on the new hub using the hub wrench, then CAREFULLY gave a couple of taps with my hammer and falthead screwdriver to tighten it. I placed a new gasket on the hub, screwed on the new seal nut, then repositioned the inner basket on.
14. After re-installing the tub and the inner basket, I put back the plastic ring that holds both tub and basket. I re-installed the auger and the cup.
I ran the machine for a test before I put the housing back in place to check for any leaks. THERE WERE NO MORE LEAKS, AND THE MACHINE SOUNDED AS GREAT AS IT DID WHEN WE PURCHASED IT 5+ YEARS AGO!

Water was leaking on the floor during the wash cycle and especially during draining of the washer. I removed the front panel at ground level and watched while draining after a rinse.

I t was obvious that water was spraying from a hole in the rubber end of the hose (the hose is a fused assembly of a plastic section and a rubber section).

So, I finished draining, removed the hose (required pliers to squeeze off a hose clamp).

Upon inspecting the hose, it was also apparent that the hole was caused by rubbing against a support bracket for the motor. This should not happen, but it did because the plastic standoff supposed to keep the hose away from the bracket was installed 180 degrees backwards.

So, I simply replaced the hose and turned the bracket around to the correct orientation.

Everything worked as planned and my repair cost was much less than if I had called someone out.

Removed agitator, inner and outer tub, balance springs, motor assembly,transmission to get to bearing and seal in tub bottom.

removed outer enclosure to expose inside workings. removed all retaining springs to tub and transmission housing. Inverted tub to access agitator pulley and belt. Removed pulley and cut belt off.(I knew I was replacing it, anyway.)Had to remove large tub bracket to exchange new pulley for old. Disconnect bleach reservoir filler tubing on tub assembly. Disconnect power connector to drive motor. Removed water pump to access drive pulley where new belt belongs. Aligned belt to pulleys and checked idler pulley tension which was acceptable. Replace helix drive lug against spin/agitator and tightened retaining bolt. Assembled components in reverse order and conducted test run. Success. Smooth running machine and saved about $200 on professional labor costs. I had no repair manual but you should have a personal confidence in general repair work. Something like a history of taking things apart and putting them back together successfully. I had an independent appliance repair guy examine the washer and he said it was too complicated for him. Once I had it apart, it seemed fairly basic. Good luck!

Amana top load laundry machine
Model # NAV2230AWW
Parts used: PS2040734 and PS2177502

NOTE: the hub seal kit comes with the gasket foam and hub nut so do not order them separately as I did. PartSelect is great about accepting returns, but you might as well know ahead of time.

When you are starting this project out, there are a few things you should be prepared with. First, you will need an extension for your ratchet so that you can get at the bolt in the center of the agitator. Second, make sure you have some sealant or grease on hand for the installation of the hub nut.

Actual dis-assembly of the washer is not difficult. Simply remove the lower front panel followed by the main front panel and then separate the outer shell. Once all these parts are removed you can remove the agitator and all the various tub parts. The instructions that come with the kit are detailed enough to easily walk you through this part.

If you have diagnosed that the upper bearing/seal is the issue you will want to check the lower one as well. In my case the failure of the upper bearing resulted in a leak which caused the lower bearing to fail as well. Once you get to actual removal of the bearings you will be well served to have a bearing removal tool. If you do not have one, getting the lower bearing out will be quite difficult. If you have one, pulling the bearing out and replacing it is quite simple. Reassembly is even easier.

Plan on this repair taking several hours. It took me about six hours but that was due to the fact that I spent a lot of time cleaning each part thoroughly before reassembling the unit. I figured that since I had it all opened up I might as well. Had I not done this I think I could have gotten the whole thing done in about three hours.

After the repair the “jet engine” noise that was present during the spin cycle is gone and there is no leak. Given the cost of having a service person come to the house and make this repair I would definitely recommend that you do it yourself. PartSelect made this really easy. This is the third repair I have made to appliances using PartSelect and I have been fully satisfied with the parts and service each time.

James Erickson
Saint Paul, MN

Disassembled top and front of machine. Removed agitator cap, removed agitator by removing center bolt. Removed tub top ring, removed balance springs, removed inner tub drain tube,removed shaft nut with channel locks, removed 7 bolts from underneath holding inner tub with 5/16 ratchet. Removed inner tub. Removed bolts holding outter tub, removed outter tub. (rock back and forth to break up old detergent etc... to remove). W-D'd the locking nut after cleaning lint, detergent etc...,used short steel bar and hammer to loosen retaining nut with "L" shaped ears. (it is all one piece and the whole thing turns off, counter/clockwise removal).Remove bearing assembly, clean and install new, remove bearing seal from tub, clean and install new. ( used silicone caulk as additional seal, let set 24 hrs.)Re-assemble in reverse. Runs like new.

firsted layed washer back On A Angle For Easy Acess To Motor Removed Both Hoses And Four bolts pulled Motor Assembly out replced belt @ idler Pulley Reinstalled Motor.

I first grasped the fabric softner dispenser and pulled it up and off agitator. I then removed the bolt from the center of the agitator with a 1/2" socket, 8" extension and ratchet. I grasped the agitator assembly and pulled it up and off. Reversed the procedure to install. The bolt can be started by placing a piece of paper towel over the socket, then inserting the bolt into the socket. It will hold it there while you start the bolt. I also took the opportunity to clean the accumulated soap scum from under the agitator while it was disassembled. An easy fix!!!

removed front, top & loosened side covers, removed agitator, removed inner drum & removed outer drum. had to release balance springs, it is a good idea to silicone in the new seal in the drum. this will prevent future leaks. removed lower plate containing the bearing & replaced. re-assembled in opposite order. i gave the silicone a day to cure before use, it works fine now. they say you need a special tool to remove the nut for the drum. i just used a pair of channellocks & tapped the handle, & it came right off.

This is not a bad repair, but give yourself some time. I did not have to take the tranny and motor out, but the inner and outer tub and all related parts had to come out, along with the outer tub base. If you are replacing the tub bearing, you HAVE to order the seal kit. Don't try to skimp like I did, since you will need the seal kit as this is what causes that bearing to fail in the first place. We forgot how quiet the washer was after I fixed it, and it saved us from buying a new washer since we were ready to say the heck with it and buy a new pair. You might need an 1.5 inch socket to get the big nut off the spindle, but I was able to get with a visegrip and hammer. The nice thing about this repair is even if you screw it up, you won't have water all over the place because of the seal design. I just checked under the washer a few times for the first few weeks and all seems fine.

I was doing laundry one day, and noticed that the washer did not drain. I drained the water via a shop vac and checked the hoses. There was a baby sock stuck in the hose leading to the pump! I cleared the jam and the washer finally drained again. Once I ran another load, the washer wouldn't drain. I repeated the procedure, and found that the motor was spinning but the pump was not working. I disconnected the machine and proceded to remove the pump. I found that, due to blockage, the motor had reamed out the housing that turns the pump. So, at the advice of my father, who has used this site for other repairs, I entered the model make and number. I was able to view an exploded schematic of the washer in order to correctly identify the part I needed. I found the part, ordered it, and it came to me in about 2 days. I replaced the pump, and my washer has worked great ever since. Thank you PartSelect.com.

I first unplugged the washer. I removed the 2 screws that hold the front panel and removed the front panel, they are located at the very bottom outer edges of the front panel.
I then removed 4 of the large springs that are attached to the drum, this washer has six but I only removed the front 4. Removed the two hoses going to the water pump and drain hose, removed 4 bolts that attach the motor to its mounting bracket. Unplugged the wiring harnesses going to motor and what looks like a capacitor mounted to the side of the motor.Then I removed the drive belt. ( when the machine would first start to spin it would make a clacking noise which ended up being a chunk out the the drive belt causing the belt tenshioner to slap causing that noise and letting the drum spin during the wash cycle. So far very easy. I then removed the motor and when it is disconnected you can then remove the water pump. Three hex head bolts need to be removed and it pulls right off. I then removed the six bolts that hold the brake pads in place. I applied silicone grease to the new brake pads and installed them. The pad at the back of the drum was very hard to line up with the holes. I used a very small screwdriver to line up the disc brake mounting holes to get the bolts started and it worked fine. I then put it all back together and it works great. I have to add that I have been an auto mechanic for 28 years and not to brag but this is not your average repair job.

I unplugged the washer, then unplugged the timer, which is really easy because it is just like unplugging a computer. I took the dial piece apart. Unscrewed the screw that was holding the timer on. Took the timer out and re-assembled the dial, then plugged the timer back in and then plugged the washer back in.

Unplugged washer then took back off control panel. Removed clamp and tube from pressure switch. Pushed in tabs with a screwdriver and lifted top. Removed clamp and broken tube. Put new tube in place and tighten clamp with nutdriver. Closed top and put other end of tube on pressure switch with clamp. Put back on control panel and plugged in. Clamps are to big for application but do work. So far so good!