Models > SAV205DAWW > Instructions

SAV205DAWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the SAV205DAWW
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pump and spin belt replacement
I followed the online line advise but I wait to add a few important notes. First, clean and use Loctite (blue works fine) on the four sheet mental screws holding the motor assembly to the internal frame. Next, mark the two capasator wire as they will have also to be removed. You probaby won't find the exact spin belt number on PartSeclect's site. By all means don't guess. Call the 1.888.895.1535 help number. They have all the cross-reference part numbers for the correct length belt.
Parts Used:
Spin Belt Drain Pump
  • James from Glendale, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Idler Pulley Wheel wasn't turning, causing belt to crack up due to heat build
Remove bottom and top front panel to access motor. Remove motor by loosening four bolts. Remove spring that applies pressure to the Idler pulley wheel. Pull out electrical connector by pressing on the tab on top. Remove rubber hoses by gripping clamps with pliers. Unhook belt from pulley at bottom of tub. Pull out motor. Push upward and inward the top of the tub to make pulling out the motor easier. Remove allen screws that secure the plastic pump housing so you can remove the belt. Replace belt. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel, remember to order replacement washers, mine was brittle and disintegrated so had to remove the second one from the bottom and used only one each side, seems to work fine. Reassemble everything in reverse order. It now purrs like a kitten, wife is now happy doing the laundry, I get to ride my motorcycle this weekend at the Los Angeles Crest Highway carving the canyons, whoohoo! Life is good.
Parts Used:
Spin Belt Idler Pulley Wheel Retaining Ring
  • ROBERT from Anaheim, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Knob broke off
Pulled off the old one and placed on the new one. Simple.
Parts Used:
Selector Knob
  • Tina from Carlsbad, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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The spin belt burned up.
To replace the belt:
First, unplug the appliance. No sense in poking and getting zapped.
Remove any water from the tub, if there is some, by running the washer through the end of the rinse cycle. This is the point of extracting water through the water pump.
Remove the bottom, front access panel by taking out the two screws at the bottom and sliding the panel down and out. It is held in place by metal clips at the top. So, it has to "unsnap" at the top.
Next, remove (by pulling out and up to disengage its hook) the left front stabilizer spring from the bottom of the outer tub. Pry it out with a screwdriver blade under the hook enough to release it from its hole in the frame. Once released, slide the hook along the lip of the frame towards the back of the washer and out of the way. Makes it easier to get back in if it is still stretched some. This allows it to be out of the way in order to remove the motor.
Disconnect the hoses attached to the discharge pump. Be sure to have a couple of towels handy for any water left in the lines. Place the towels directly under the hoses before disconnecting. Set the hoses to the side of the washer cabinet.
Loosen and remove the back (when looking at the motor from the front access) two bolts holding the motor support frame to the frame supporting the transmission.
Next, locate and remove the top two bolts holding the motor frame to the tub frame. Be sure to support the motor as the last bolt is removed so that it does not fall down.
Tilt the motor slightly to the left. Locate the wiring harness at the top left side of the motor. There is a plastic clip in the middle and on top of the wiring harness. Push down on the clip as you grasp the harness. This will release the clip's grip at the back of the harness and allow you to pull it out. Set the harness back behind one of the nearby tension springs to keep it out of the way.
Once the harness and bolts are removed, tilt the bottom of the motor towards you and pull down and out to clear the outer tub frame.
With the motor out, fiip it over and locate the three screws holding the pump in place. Using a #25 torx head screwdriver, remove the screws. The pump will now separate from motor. Visually check that the pump does not have an obstruction. Manual check by spinning the pump by hand. It should move freely.
Before installing the spin belt, clean the motor pulley of any residue.
Remove and replace the idler arm spring. Leave the spring attached to the arm only. Do not reattach it to its anchor point on the motor frame.
Install the spin belt, making sure that the belt is on either side of the pump's rear leg. (Rear leg being the leg 90 degrees counterclockwise to the pump outlet port.) Be sure that the idler arm pulley is able to apply pressure to the belt.
Reverse steps to put the pump, motor and springs back in place. Be sure to plug in the wiring harness before the motor is place back into position.
Tip: Leave the idler spring off until after the spin pulley is wound onto the helix pulley. You can reach around the motor from the right side and grasp the pulley. Spinning it slowly as you feed the belt will make it easier to get it back on.
Last, plug in the machine and give a Tim Allen ARH, ARH, ARH, Ugh?
Parts Used:
MNL, SVC TOP LOAD WSHR Idler Pulley Spring
  • Tim from Ferron, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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leaking from pump
removed hoses from pump, removed 4 screws holding motor housing to washer, disconnected wiring from motor. It will make your life easier to re-assemble if you pay attention to how belt is located in relation to the legs of the pump. pump came off motor very easily. I had the old pump out and the new pump in and working in about 30 minutes.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • James from Montgomery, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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pump seal leaked; retaining ring sprung
pull front cover off of machine, disconnect motor wiring harness. Remove 4 sheet metal screws holding motor / pump assembly to frame. Remove both pump hoses (caution - have towels and a bucket at the ready). Pull unit from machine. turn upside down on bench and replace components. Reverse for installation.
Parts Used:
Retaining Ring Drain Pump
  • Richard from Soldotna, AK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer agitator fins snapped off
I first took the fabric softener dispenser off and used
a ratchet wrench to take the nut off. I then removed
the agitator, put the new one on and reversed the process. It was extremely easy!
Parts Used:
Agitator Assembly
  • Paul from ATLANTIC HIGHLANDS, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken fins on agitator.
I went ot the Parts Select web site, and read what other people had done with the same problem. The advice was right on. Using the paper towel to hold the screw in place during reassembly ws great advice. Thanks for the heads- up.
Parts Used:
Agitator Assembly
  • John from Douglassville, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Idler wheel seperated from bushing,snap ring came off
First always unplug appliance.Then I shut off the water.I took the front off the washer.Saw the idler was the problem.Ordered parts and new belt.Removed motor assy,and removed pump.Checked impellors and pump bearing.Installed new parts for idler.Installed belt.Re-installed pump to motor,then re-installed entire assy.Turned on water and ecectricity.Ran complete cycle to test.Re-installed front cover.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Wheel
  • William from Westmoreland, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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The auger section of this part would no longer stay attached to the lower agitator part due to prior repair work
Use a blade to pop off the fabric softener dispenser cup. Use socket and extension to unscrew the single hex bolt that attaches the assembly to the shaft. Lift off the assembly and recover the flat washer. Install the new assembly over the shaft and install the original hex bolt and washer. Tighten firmly. Snap the dispenser cup back in place.
Parts Used:
Agitator Assembly
  • John from Ava, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Pump seized and belt burnt
Disconnect power and water, opened up front end by removing four self-tapping screws, removed the electric motor assembly from frame of machine, replace pump and belt and reassembled.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Mark from Maxbass, ND
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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tub would not stop spinning--brakes broke from bolts
Unpluged electric, diconnected dicharge hose from wall drain, disconnected water lines from rear of washer and at wall hose connection, removed lower front panel, removed large front panel, disconnected hoses at motor(put towels at hoses to catch water leakage)THEN-took washer to the garage and tuned up side down. Removed front two tub springs, removed (4) motor bolts, removed electrical harness from motor, remove and replaced new brake pads. NOTE:brake pads need to be somewhat driven(pushed hard) into brake pad slots. Also it was easier to install the rear pad by removing the 4" knock-out at the side of the washer. Somehow reinstall the knock-out to keep mice and animals from entering the interior of the washer. THEN- reinstall all items in reverse order. Any one mechaniclly minded can replace the brake pad. My wife and I saved lots by doing the replacement myself. THE END. Good job Gary Final note:besure to intall the drive "v" belt around the 2" pulley wheel.Very important.
Parts Used:
Brake Pad Kit
  • GARY from VILLA RIDGE, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Broken Selector knob
Remover broken part with needle nose pliers and replaced knob. Less than thirty seconds.
Parts Used:
Selector Knob
  • Michael from Venice, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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I had no standpipe adapter and water was overflowing
I figured that the best thing to do is buy an adapter for the standpipe and now no more overflowing.
Parts Used:
Standpipe Adapter
  • mary ann from edison, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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drive shaft seal leak in pump
removed the front of the washer, removed the motor and pump. Reinstall new pump.
Parts Used:
Drain Pump
  • Gary from Pickerington, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the SAV205DAWW
46 - 60 of 157