Models > SAEQ7000FS0 > Instructions

SAEQ7000FS0 Electrolux Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for SAEQ7000FS0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the SAEQ7000FS0
16-30 of 281
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Dryer overheated and stopped working

  • Customer: Paul from Holiday FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was cheked the electrical panel and breaker, then I checked the electrical cord, then I did check the motor on the bottom of the machine (that may be is the blower motor) looking for any indication of burned parts or broken, then I checked the on-off switch with a voltmeter looking for continuity and it was fine. Then I checked the timer switch and it was fine as well. Finally, I took the lid off the top of the dryer machine to check the thermostat and themal limiter fuse. The thermostat was fine but the thermal fuse was open. So after doing some research to understand how the fuse work I decided to place an order to get a new fuse. I installed it and the dryer started working again. After replacing the fuse I monitored the dryer machine while operating it and worked fine. Why the fuse was open or was damaged? It is the first time I have problems w/ the dryer. I checked the end of the conduct line that guide the air out and I noticed and have to clean the end of it because it was dirt. Because it was not completly clean, the dryer got overheated. It took me sometime to figure out the problem but I learned, save me money and the best part was that I do it myself : )

Dryer wouldn't heat up

  • Customer: David from Seattle WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I waded into this project without knowing what I was doing and as a result did much more work than was needed. What I should have done was 1) open access panel at lower left of back of dryer and rmove belt from pully 2) push screwdriver in against clips in seem at top front of dryer (where top meets face) and lift top up and off hinges at back 3) remove screws holding front of dryer to the sides of the dryer cabinet (about 1 foot down) and swing front down on hinges at bottom 4) lift dryer drum straight up out of the bracket at the back of the dryer 5) remove wires from the dryer element and heat sensor on the heater pan (about 4 and 1 o'clock respectively wires are on tight, may need plieres) 6) unscrew heater pan from back of dryer 7) remove heat sensor from old heater pan and put on new heater pan 8) screw new heater pan to back of dryer 9) replace wires to elements and sensor, you may want to "crimp" the connectors onto the tabs 10) replace dryer drum slipping back into back bracket, be sure that dryer belt is around drum as when you openned the dryer 11) lift up front so that drum fits around and is supported by flange molded into front 12) replace screws that attach front to dryer cabinet 13) replace top of dryer (put back on hinges at back and lower onto clips in front 14) put dryer belt back on pully and replace access plate.

Drum would not turn

  • Customer: jeana from houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
remove the rear lower left vent cover to get access the belt tensioner and pulley. then pop the top section up with a flathead screwdriver in the front, freeing it from the popclips. Then remove two screws from the back side of the front section releasing the drum. loop the belt around the drum.

lint filter did not fit "squarely" into its place

  • Customer: Jeff from Bethalto IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
replaced old filter, only to find that the new one had the same issue. After closer examination, I determined the filter guide that screws into place, which I had removed earlier to clean lint out, did not hold the lint casing correctly. I removed and reinstalled the piece that has the metal moisture sensors, and replaced it, ensure both screws held the lint casing as it should. Now I have two lint filters that fit perfectly! So, if you ever remove the piece wtih the metal sensors, make sure that the lint casing is screwed in correctly when replacing.

DOOR LATCH & DOOR STRIKE BROKEN ON DRYER

  • Customer: Bruce from Seminole FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 16 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I REMOVED THE BROKEN DOOR LATCH & STRIKE WITH PLIERS. THEN I PUSHED THE NEW PARTS INTO PLACE

Motor shaft broke

  • Customer: Beverly from Blairsville GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
had to remove the belt and drum and then remove the motor and replace it...put the belt on and then the hard part was to get the drum in place without the belt coming off. New Motor works quieter than the old one did, so I assume the dryer came with a defective motor to begin with and then the shaft finally broke. It runs very quiet now, but never did before. Even a service man came when it was new but said that was normal. Now we know it was not....there was a problem from the start.

Drum making thumping noises, clothes getting caught behind drum.

  • Customer: Gerald from Baltimore MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I've always been a "do it yourselfer". If I can fix it, I save money. I took the dryer apart by lifting the top up like car hood. Then I removed the front panel. The front drum glide snapped into place easily where the other one had broken off. The felt strip that you sent was much shorter than the one on the dryer, so once I used the wire wheel to remove the old glue, I cut off the section of the felt that was bad and replaced it with the new felt. The turns much quieter and clothing doesnt get caught behind the drum anymore.

Burned out heater element

  • Customer: Gerald from Alliance NE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
1.Remove 2 screws and the air intake grill on the back of the unit. remove the drive belt. 2. Remove 2 screws on rear of top, slide top back and remove. 3. Remove 2 screws about a foot down on the inside on each side of the front cover. Remove four screws that secure the plastic control panel and the front panel that are right behind the control panel on the top. Disconnect the wiring harnesses, cut the nylon wire tie that is closest to the front cover. 3. lay unit on its back and and remove the two screws on the lower edge of the front panel, take your putty knife and slide it in the gap between the front panel and the dryer cabinet and release the two spring clips on both sides. Then you can lift off the front panel and control panel, set it to the side. 4. Remove the screw and the nylon guide from the center of the top front case crossmember. Remove the three screws on the inside rear of the drum, lift out the drum and set aside. 5. The drum pivot just sits in a nylon socket, pop it toward the top of the machine and lift it out, you may want to clean it good and re-lubricate it on reassembly. Disconnect the wires from the heating element and the heat sensor. 6. Set the cabinet upright and remove the four screws on the back side of the rear of the cabinet but not the two that are right in the center, they hold the pivot fixture and don't need to come out. The heater coil pan is now loose and ready for removal. 7. The seal between the filter housing and the blower housing was torn and this is an important part to have right, any air leak here will do the same thing as a dirty lint filter or plugged dryer exhaust and your new heating element will have a short, hot life. I pulled the old one off, scrapped the old glue off, applied the adhesive like the instructions on the tube say and after a few minutes installed the new seal then set the front panel to the side to let the adhesive dry. 8. The reassembly is just the reverse of the disassembly , use a couple nails or awls to help hold the dryer heater pan in place for screw installation and you might want to gentle squeeze the wire connecters if they feel loose, also check for clogged or kinked exhaust and stress the importance of cleaning the lint filter after EVERY load, it is small and all the air that cools the heating element must go through it, if is isn't maintained your new element won't last long. Have fun!

My husband ruined the old latch by trying to shut the door too hard, and the old latch fell down into the inside of the dryer.

  • Customer: Michelle from Dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I took the new latch out of the package and snapped it into place. It took about 15 seconds, and that included the walk to the laundry room!

cloths getting caught along drum glide and lint trap and black streaks/sometimes tearing

  • Customer: Gabriellle from Vancouver WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
1) pulled Dryer out from wall and removed top panel

The dryer drum wouldnt turn

  • Customer: Kara from Beckly WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Had to pretty much disassemble the entire dryer. The schematics on the web site made it a snap to do. One word of advice. I you have to replace the rear drum assembly, the drum has to come out the front of the dryer. Part select made this a very positive experience.

dryer drum squealing loudly!

  • Customer: john from waynesboro VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
THIS UNIT IS A STACKABLE WASHER&DRYER,SO FIRST PULL UNIT AWAY FROM WALL ATLEAST 4 FOOT.UNPLUG POWER CORD,THEN TAKE10 DAGREE FRONT PANEL OFF THEN THE CONTROL PANEL OFF AND UNPLUG THE 5 CONNETORS IF YOUR UNIT HAS THAT MANY,THEN LAY PANEL ASSIDE.TAKE DRYER DOOR OFF,MAKES IT EASIER WHEN PUTTING IT ALL BACK TOGETHER.NOW TAKE FRONT PANEL OFF AND THE DRYER LENT TUBE,NOW JUST TAKE THE 3 CENTER PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWS OUT AND SLIDE DRUM OUT.PULL UPWARD ON WHAT THEY CALL THE SHAFT WHICH HELD DRUM ON.NOW THESE ARE THE PARTS YOU SHOULD ORDER.BELT,GROUNDING BALL CLIP,GROUNDING BALL,DRUM SUPPORT BEARING,BEARING BRACKET,AND MOST IMPORTANT PART IS THE SHAFT.THE SHAFT IS UR INSURANCE FOR THE WHOLE JOB.USE A GOOD GREASE LIKE WHITE LITHIUM GREASE AND COAT THE SHAFT END AND THE DRUM SUPPORT BEARING.THE GREASE WILL CUT DOWN ON FRICTION FOR A WHILE,AND RE ASSEMBLE THE WAY YOU TOOK APART.REMINDER GROUNDING BALL GOES BEHIND DRUM SUPPORT BEARING NOT IN FRONT.GOOD LUCK AND PLEASE VACCUM.

Wretched screeching noise

  • Customer: Paul from Broadalbin NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

Heating element went

  • Customer: Jeff from Newfane NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Tried to follow the directions of others but ran into a problem with getting the top panel off. This is how I did it.
1 Disconnect power and dryer vent tube. Move away from wall.
2 Remove slotted access panel in back of dryer and take belt off motor and idler pulley. Leave on drum.
3 Unscrew the screws on the back of the top panel brackets( mine are silver) where they screw into the back panel and pull up and to the back to get the top panel off. Someone else said to slide a putty knife in the front to release the top but my machine has no spring clips.
4 With the cover off you can see the two heat sensors and I tested them with a multi meter they registered 0 which meant they were OK.
5 Remove the screws that hold the control board on and the plugs that are wired into it making sure that you draw a diagram to remember the wiring. There was a zip tie that I cut to be able to feed the plugs through the hole in the front panel that the wiring must go when the front panel drops down.
6 Remove the screws on the top of the front panel and the screws on the inside of the side panel that hold the front panel secure.
7 A lot goes on on step 7 because the front panel which is hinged drops from the top down to the floor. Diagram and remove all wires there are two green ground wires on the side, Three wires on the door lock, two wires for the light and wires for a moisture sensor. When disconnected feed the control panel plugs and other wires through the hole in the front panel and lift up and out on the front panel it will pop out. Lower it to the floor and let it rest there.
8 Now you can get the drum out of the way by pulling up then out the front where the front panel is now on the floor. Leave the belt on it.
9 Diagram the wiring on the heating element there are connections for the element and the sensor. They gave me a new sensor screwed onto the new heating element. Then unscrew it from the back panel the screws are on the back of the machine.
10 Install is the reverse of the rip down

In hindsight I would have liked to have had the new part before I started the project because the wiring wasn't so fresh in my head a week later when it arrived even with diagrams. Over all it was very simple and took under two hours to complete. I did clean everything I could inside the machine and reglued a couple of the seals that had fallen loose. Works like new and probably went because of overheating with a clogged vent. Lesson... clean your dryer vent every year or sooner.

Dryer would not turn on

  • Customer: Michael from Erlanger KY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I contacted a company to come out and diagnose the problem. They informed me that the thermal limiter is bad and needed to be replaced for $15 for the part and $85 labor. I found the part on this site for about $10, and did the repair myself. The dryer was mostly dismantled so I pulled the drum back, and replaced the part. The tricky part was the pulley system was, so make sure you see it before hand or find a diagram online. Once that was figured out, I set the drum back up, greased and tightened the pulley, reattached the front of the washer with connections, and closed the lid.
All Instructions for the SAEQ7000FS0
16-30 of 281