Models > S2100G0WW > Instructions

S2100G0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for S2100G0WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the S2100G0WW
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Control knob teeth were worn

  • Customer: Charles from Dallas GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 461 of 461 people found this instruction helpful
I spoke to a very nice young ladie who took my order and I received my order within two days. I pull the clasp off of the old knob and replace the knob and the clasp with the new part and it now works great. Thank you for helping me find the part I needed.

The original Knob just fell apart

  • Customer: Irina from Englewood NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 361 of 363 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was so easy when I got the part, I did it myself without any help in 5 seconds!

Washing Machine was not draining water from tub.

  • Customer: Gerald from Midlothian VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 147 of 156 people found this instruction helpful
1. Drained the wash tub by taking the drain hose from the back of the washing machine and dropping it below the tub - water flowed out of hose a lot easier than trying to suck water out of tub using a pump (tried this on the first time I tried to fix washer). (Washing machine on 2nd floor of house and didn't want water running on floor)
2. Removed the 2 bolts holding the Pump/Motor assembly to the machine.
3. Removed both hose clamps on the Pump/Motor assembly and removed Pump.
4. Attached the new drain inlet hose to the pump and then to the tub with the original hose clamps.
5. Attached the drain hose to the pump and then plugged in the 2 wires for the pump.
6. Plugged in the washing machine and everything worked.

NOTES:
1. Hardest part was working with hose clamps (spring type clamps) in the tight space under the machine.
2. Easier to fix since I pulled machine apart a few days before - removing the clog in the pump/motor assembly only to get everything back together to find out that the motor was dead. Still well worth the time and effort due to not having to go out and buy a new Machine...

Bearing on the transmission to tub wore out (mostly due to the washer not being level)

  • Customer: Victor from League City TX
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 79 of 94 people found this instruction helpful
The back of the control panel had an instruction pamplet that was very useful. 2 parts did not go as written tho. To "pop" the spinner out, required short 1x4s and a shake/shingle bar to pry it up and the wedging of the 1x4s under it, until enough strain was put on it to "pop" it off. Then the large 1&11/16 nut was a bear. It required a short pipe wrench (so it fit in the tub) and a hammer to brake it loose.

GE washer no spinning during spin cycle

  • Customer: Laurence from Bronx NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 64 of 73 people found this instruction helpful
Used the spatula to release the front panel (push flat spatula under top about 2 inches from either side to release the two sprng clips holding the front panel on) to expose the tub and motor assembly. Inspected the belt and it seemed worn and a lot of rubber particles were in base of machine. Ordered the belt from partselect - received it two days later. Loosened 4 motor mount nuts. Removed old belt and replaced. Tightened belt and tightened nuts on motor. Only tricky part is you will need extensions for socket drive because belt is in the way for two of the motor mount nuts. I used a 1/4" small socket wrench, with an extension. No expertise needed on this one.

Control knob stripped

  • Customer: Robert from Joppa MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 54 of 58 people found this instruction helpful
The teeth on the control knob were broken off (not sure how it happened). the teeth on the stem of the knob turn the selector dial. To replace the control knob, I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the pin clip and pulled the knob off. The new control knob came with the clip already installed on the stem of the knob. It was a matter of pushing the new knob onto the shaft . . . and the rest is history.

washer was overflowing-- not registering that the tub was full

  • Customer: Angie from Saint Louis MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 50 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced both the tube and the pressure switch and still no luck. turns out that i didn't need either part. the little box that the tube hooks on to at the bottom left of the tub had a clog in it. we disconnected the tube from the switch and just blew through it. the clog broke loose and my washer works again!! decided that i was leaving the new parts on the machine. one less thing to worry about in the future.... ????

The Hub Under the Spinner basket broken/ Deteriorated

  • Customer: Joe from Lucedale MS
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 46 of 61 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front cover, Control panel, top Cover, slasher unit, all very smiple stuff. the hub was broken and the spinner basket came right out. One half Hub attached to Spinner, Other half attached to Hub drive shaft. removing the Hub nut was the hard part. tried impack & socket, No luck. in removal. Had to usr Hammer & Chisel and bust Old Alum. Nut off. Clean up and replace parts. OK. Had to remove water pump and clear debree that went in pump when spinner Hub broke off . the spinner also bursted a crack in the outer poly tube when it cam apart.. Sanded the dmage area and Patched with a good coat of JB Weld. machine is working Like new. The parts all worked Great. the break down Chart was a great Help to get the right parts needed. Thanks

Leaking oil into the washer (in tub and on clothes)

  • Customer: Scott from Bloomington IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 35 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
Had never repaired a washer before, but have several tools and enjoy working with my hands. Knew it would be cost prohibitive to call a repairman, and didn't have anything to lose. Quick delivery from partselect -- reasonable price, too. This was as easy as simply taking the whole washer apart (NOTE -- there are instructions behind the knobs inside the unit that are very helpful!) replacing the transmission and putting it all back together. Hardest part was getting the hub nut off of the transmission axle. To get it off (REVERSE THREADED, so 'tighten' to 'loosen') I used a 1 11/16 socket and impact wrench. Use the same tool to tighten (but go EASY...don't overtighten). This was not difficult, but just took some time. A couple of evenings later, we were washing again like NEW. Part cost around $160, labor was 'free' and much less than a new $500 top loader or $800 front loader. If you enjoy taking things apart and have some tools, then go for it!

machine would not drain all other functions seemed o.k

  • Customer: douglas from danby VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 34 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Aside from getting the wet clothes and most of the water out,the toughest part of the job for me was to figure out how to get inside the machine. I nearly wrecked the thing trying to lift the top panel. After some frustration I removed the star-type screws on back of the control panel and found, tucked away neatly, the documentation/parts list complete with instructions on how to remove the FRONT panel. Once I got inside it was easy to locate the pump. I ran the drain cycle for a moment to see if the pump turned at all. The original had an exposed fan so it was easy to see that indeed the motor was not turning. I inspected all the hose and electrical connections to make sure I had the tools I'd need and the savvy to replace the part(s) if I could locate them. I'm not much of a web-head, so I was a little surprised when I typed G.E. appliances and the search took me to partselect.com where I was pretty much coached through the procedure before I even ordered the part. The box arrived ahead of schedule (yay) and when I looked at the pump it didn't look much like the one I was replacing. But then I realized it was the same thing just ten years more advanced. I used a small pair of vise grips to pinch and lock the pipe clamps open. I know there is a plier made for this, but... Anyways, after loosening the clamps and sliding them away from the pump I pulled the hoses off and let the last of the rinse water still in them run down my shirt sleeve to my elbow. (optional, not recommended) Thus refreshed I then rummaged through my socket set and found what I needed to remove the 2 sheet metal mounting screws and disconnected the 2 power leads. I removed the faulty pump and proudly showed it to my wife. Unimpressed, she asked how much longer. I quickly reversed the procedure to install the new unit and confidently piled in a load of laundry. The cycle completed just fine and has done so since. I will and have recommmended partselect.com to friends and will use it again for sure.

Old Hose Had A Leak

  • Customer: Anthonie from Beale AFB CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 33 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the screws that held the hose drain hose clip in place. Removed the damaged hose. Placed the new drain hose clip at the end of the new drain hose. Re-inserted back in hole, pushed in hose to necessary depth then tighted screws, Very easy and painless.

washer was not agitating or spinning

  • Customer: Rachelle from Kent City MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 31 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
My washer was making noise but not agitating or spinning on any of the cycles that I turned the dial to. Didn't know if it was the transmission or something simple. I did some research and discovered it may be the belt, even though the belt looked new, I changed it anyway by just removing the front of the washer and cutting the belt off and putting the new belt on by just turning the pulleys until it fed on. No need to tip it over to do the repair...and it WORKED!! Then I did the happy dance around the house...see woman can repair 2!

Timer on the washing machine wasn't working properly. Just spinning around not catching to set wash cycle

  • Customer: Kristina from Pasadena CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 31 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
I found Partselect and searched for what I needed. Wasn't quite sure I had the right timer, so I called and gave them the model number and they did a search and found the right one. I ordered the part online and a few days later the parts were delivered to me. The timer fit right in and looked just like the origninal. Within 30 mins. washer was back in service.
Another washer we have on the property wasn't agitating correctly. After taking off the agitator ( by pulling straight up from the bottom ) I found that the coggs on the agitator hub were all worn out. I removed the center screw from the shaft and pulled the old hub off. Installed the new one ordered from Partselect and washwer was back up and running in no time.

oil leaked on clutch and slipping

  • Customer: PETER from MCMURRAY PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 30 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut

Pump and Motor Assembly began leaking and then seized.

  • Customer: Michael from Alexandria IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the front panel by prying it forward with a Screw driver away from the side panels at the top (wrap a shop rag around the Screw driver to keep from scratching the paint). Once you have the panel pried loose at the top ... lean it forward until you can lift it off the tab type hooks at the bottom.
I next unplugged the wires from the motor. The orginal motor had three wires ... two on top and one on the left side. The one on the side is a ground wire for the open frame motor. The replacement motor is sealed and does not require this wire. Just leave it unplugged when the new one is installed.
Next I removed the inlet hose that attaches to the back of the pump. Remove it by loosening the hose clamp and removing it from the bottom of the tub, leaving it attached to the back of the pump. It is much easier to remove and transfer to the new pump once it is out rather than fight with the spring type clamp on the back of the pump in the close quarters inside the machine.
Next I removed the outlet hose from the top of the pump. Squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up and off the pump.
Now I just used a Socket to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the inside front of the machine and removed the assembly.
I now removed the inlet hose from the back of the old pump. Just squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up the hose and off the pump. Transfer the hose to the back of the new pump reusing the same clamp.
I now bolted the assembly back into the machine, reattached the outlet hose to the pump, and then reattached inlet hose to the bottom of the tub. All that was left to do was plug in the two wires to the top front of the pump motor (as I mentioned earlier, leave the side wire from the old pump unplugged as it is not needed on the new one). I then ran the machine for a few moments with the front off to check for any leaks and then put the front panel back on.
The whole replacement cost about $50 and took barely 15 min. from start to finish. The machine now works perfectly.
All Instructions for the S2100G0WW
1-15 of 380