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RVM1535DM2CC Hotpoint Microwave - Instructions

All Instructions for the RVM1535DM2CC
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Unit would run when door is opened
Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube
Parts Used:
Monitor Door Switch
  • Ernest from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Broken GE microwave door latch (Part number WB05X10007)
Took out the door to be able to replace the door latch. After removing the plastic cover it was challenging to remove the broken latch (unlike other models this has two separate latches individually controlled by spring. The pin holding the latch was impossible to take out and I figured I need to take out inner layer of the door frame (metal part) to remove it. But the frame was stuck and did not come out. I found no reference how to do it on internet and then with another pair of hand pulled outwards while simultaneously pulling upward. Was finally about to pull just enough and replace the latch and push the metal frame to fit back.
Parts Used:
LATCH PAWL
  • DILLIP from LITTLETON, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Bulb broke in socket, socket had deteriorated beyond repair.
Phillips screws on bottom panel allowed me to install new socket and put electric connection back. Secured bottom panel and that was it.
Parts Used:
Light Socket - 250V 75W
  • Frank from CICERO, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Glass lens and two light bulbs replacements
My microwave is built in above the stove which provides lighting and fans for my stove. The glass lens cover for the lighting was cracked in several places and the light bulbs had burned out. I taped the glass lens for removal so it didn't break apart due to the cracks Removed the one screw. .Both light bulbs broke away from the base sockets as I tried to unscrew them. I used electrical tape wrapping in reverse on a lightbulb (socket end) so it was sticky for a grip on the base, shoved it in the sockets and was unable to unscrew the broke off bases. So it was very successful and no repair man was needed.
Parts Used:
Glass Light Lens Light Bulb - 40W 130V
  • Linda from SEASIDE, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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When door opened, microwave would turn on
Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.
Parts Used:
Monitor Door Switch Secondary Door Switch
  • Tom from SUN PRAIRIE, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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The microwave turntable rotates when the door is open.
This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.
Parts Used:
Monitor Door Switch Secondary Door Switch
  • DeWitt from Boulder, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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NO light
.Thank You Dan
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W 130V
  • Dan from Leesburg, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Broken Light Socket
Turned the power to the unit off. Removed seven- (7) small screws from the base plate, not removing the rear screws. The plate dropped a few inches allowing me to get to the light socket. I removed one- (1) screw that allowed the socket to be removed. I then detached the two- (2) electrical leads. I now installed the new socket, replacing the leads and the screw along with a new bulb. I pushed the bottom plate back into the up position and replaced the seven- (7) screws. Turned the power back on and we were good to go.
Parts Used:
Light Socket - 250V 75W
  • Richard from Batavia, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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broken
replaced
Parts Used:
Cooking Tray
  • Janet from Fort Worth, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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light lens broke a couple of years ago
unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.
Parts Used:
Glass Light Lens
  • KAREN from MANSFIELD, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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glass light lens was broken, had collected grease, was dark.
Simply removed screw, pulled down light holder, unfoled the metal tabs, took out the broken pieces and replaced the glass lens and light bulb.
Parts Used:
Glass Light Lens Light Bulb - 40W 130V
  • William from Littleton, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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microwave Quit working but lights worked
llation
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Rick from Muncie, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
5 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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Tray cracked after only 4 months of use
Replacement tray was installed. It was larger than the original tray, but it fits in.
Parts Used:
Cooking Tray
  • Florence from Lake Forest, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Cracked Light Lens, Burned Out Bulbs
Easy peasy - removed lens holder w/screw driver. Cleaned cover after removing damaged glass lens. Then unscrewed burnt out light bulbs. Installed new bulbs, slid in new light lens into holder and screwed back into bottom of microwave. Removed greasy filter and slid in new filter. Done!
Parts Used:
Grease Filter Glass Light Lens Light Bulb - 40W 130V
  • Nancy from FAYETTEVILLE, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Frost build up on bottom to ice bin and delivery chute in door creating ice blockage
Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door
Parts Used:
FUSE
  • Ronald from PONCA CITY, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the RVM1535DM2CC
76 - 90 of 212