Models > RVM1435WH001 > Instructions

RVM1435WH001 Hotpoint Microwave - Instructions

All installation instructions for RVM1435WH001 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the microwave repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the RVM1435WH001
16-30 of 362
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bulb had broken off in base that was still screwed into socket

  • Customer: william from san antonio TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 38 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
At first I tried to use pliers to unscrew the base,very uncomfortable working position,upside down and backwards(the microwave is installed over the range top)very limited space for your body and arms to manuver and you really cant see the base,all of this took place after the breaker was turned off ofcourse,finally figured out that you can drop the entire bottom housing of the microwave by unscrewing 6 screws and the light sockets are easily accessable once you lower it,take out 1 retaining screw ,remove the entire socket and unscrewed the broken base and replaced the bulbs,I said bulbs,there is no sense in having to replace another bulb in who knows how long since only one had burned out but they were both the same age

Oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: CARTER from OXNARD CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 27 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Over the range microwave. Replaced magnetron. Completely disassemble the case top and bottom.
Remove screws from bottom of HV transformer. Magnetron will not clear without this removal.

Remove nuts with socket from top of Magnetron. Remove thermo unit from old magnetron and attach it to new. Replace and bolt down Mag. Replace and screw in HV transformer. Make sure all wires are reconnected.

Put it back up on the wall. Took about three hours from taking it down from wall and putting it back up.

oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: david from elmira NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 29 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
1. remove microwave from wall
2. remove cover (many screws)
3. remove nuts holding magnetron in place (4)
4. remove magnetron (this is a pain due to the plastic molding used to direct cooling air through the magnetron
5. get new magnetron in place (this was even more fun to find the right angles to tilt to get the magnetron to fit
6. re-tighten the 4 nuts on the magentron
7. put the cover back on
8. put the unit back on the wall.

bonus repair: the display flickered while the magnetron was on (cooking ) prior to the magnetron dying. found a ribbon cable on the control board to the display with an aluminum foil shield that had peeled off (adhesive failure). re-installing the aluminum shield with packaging tape, and the display no longer flickers

Bulb burnt out and stuck to socket holder

  • Customer: Frank from Reno NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
1. Take off bottom panel
2. discon wire from microwave
3. set panel on table
4. unscrew panel cover under metal cover bracket
5. need to do that because screw from cover panel won't let you put in light bulb in round hole in metal cover panel
6. take new socket holder and insert bulb
and screw back on to metal cover bracket after remove bad socket holder and bulb by unscrewing
7. recon wire
8. test before putting back bottom panel
9. screw bottom panel back on.

The handle was broken

  • Customer: Donna from Chapel Hill NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I had to pop off the facing on the microwave on the inside and then on the outside. On the inside, I used a kitchen knife to carefully pop off the facing. I found the screws that were holding the old handle on. I had to pop the back of the microwave door off to gain access to the other screws for the handles. The outer screws had to be put in place first, making sure that the glass did not slip. The facing needed to be popped back on before the inner screws were tightened. I tightened the inner screws and then popped the facing back on. The thing that took me the longest was figuring out how to pop the facing off and lining up the screws in the handles correctly.

Oven would not power up

  • Customer: Andras from Lexington MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
There are 4 thermostats (aka TCO = Thermal Cut Out) in the GE JVM1440BH04
The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door.

Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse.

There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy:

1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation.

2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave.


"Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319


3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation.

1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly.

4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C.

4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.

Turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok.

  • Customer: Sean from San Jose CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the 2 Torx-15 screws at left of control panel. Work the control panel out by pulling slightly to the left first - it is engaged to the slotted holes to the right.

Remove the door's upper switch by lifting the tab and pulling out the switch carefully. To install the new switch, you may have to remove 2 philips screws holding the plastic assembly where the switches are mounted to the metal frame.

Diagrams on the website are misleading b/c the switch shown up on top of the other 2 switches is the switch w/ the NC (upper) terminal while you'll need the NO (lower) terminal for this repair (symptoms are: turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok). I should have called before ordering the part (had to pay shipping twice)...

Once I got the right part, it works just like before.

Glass turn table made loud noise while turning then stopped turning

  • Customer: Linda from Le Claire IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
This repair could not have been easier! The website was great at helping to identify the problem and the part needed. Users discribing how they did the repair gave me the confidence to do it myself. I got the part the day after I ordered it, installed it and my microwave was a good as new! It was as simple as unscrewing seven screws to remove the bottom of the microwave. Then two more screws to remove the part. Unplug the broken drive, plug in the new one and screw everything back together! Don't forget to unplug your microwave before you begin.

Great website!

Changing the bulb that illuminates the cooktop

  • Customer: LUCY from BALLWIN MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

All electircal functions worked except the heating mechanism

  • Customer: Chad from Firestone CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
A great place to start is to reveiw the posting from "Marla From Arlington TX" posted on 8-3-09. It provides an excellent description of the process that you will need to follow. The only additional thing that I would add is to check the contacts on the switches. In my case I found that all three of the switches had a small build-up of corrosion. I used sandpaper to clean the contacts. Because none of the switches had a "soft" click to them, it was hard to identify the bad one. I basically picked the worse looking one and then cleaned the contacts of the other two. I'm not sure if I actually even had a bad switch or if they all just needed cleaning. Whatever the case, it worked. I would suggest checking the contacts first. You may get away with not having to replace any of the switches. And in my case what makes me think that it may have just simply been dirty contacts is that the heating mechanism would engage every now and then. It wasn't dead 100 percent of the time. It's worth a try anyway.

Noise and no Heat on Microwave oven.

  • Customer: Luis from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 15 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
First, I waste $65 by calling some "REPAIR" service. They showed at home and charge me that just to tell me
Second, I researched on the web and ordered a part, which was not the issue. I waste abnother $72
Third, I found Part-Select and got the right answer: the Diode was the problem. Ordered the part form Part-Select and it FIxed it !!!

Note: I did not buy a new microwave because this one is mounted on the wall and it will cost me +$800 just the lowest price.

I diagnosed the problem incorrectly: based on a previous repair.

  • Customer: Ralph from Brandon FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
The old fuse is perfectly good. The new ones arrived within a day.

A horrid grinding noise while using appliance

  • Customer: Gordon from Norton MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I looked up the parts of the microwave on Part Select to see if there might be something I might be able to do myself. I found that the Cooking Tray drive motor was the problem. I ordered the part and got it the very next day. I loosened the 6 screws to the lower part of the microwave and then the two screws that held the part in place. I removed the element and pulled the wire plug from the element, placed the new element back in with the screws, repluged the wire, placed the lower cover back to the microwave, tested the microwave out and, is still working quietly as if it were new. Thanks to part select.com it was easy.

rotating glass tray was grinding and not turning.

  • Customer: Michael from Midland TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I first took the filters of the exhaust and then removed the screws on the bottom of the combination microware hood fan. Once the 6 retention phillips head screws were removed from the bottom of the microwave, and the hinged bottom "door" lowered the motor was exposed. I removed the motor by removing the two phillips screws and unplugged the motor. The hardest part was finding a replacement on the net because most shops did not give enough details or pictures to know if a part was exchangable or a replacement. Partselect.com listed the parts, motor voltage, and had pictures so that I was comfortable with ordering. The part arrived the day it was scheduled to and I simple reversed the process and within 5 minutes I had the microwave motor in and back together. It is nice to do business with a place that also gives you a returns policy upfront.

door handle broke

  • Customer: Charlene from Farmington UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I used the kitchen knife to remove the inside cover on the door. There are tabs which hold it in place along the vertical sides. Then removed the two screws holding the handle in place and replaced it with the new handle. Replaced the inside door cover. Thanks for the tip on using the knife to remove the inside cover!! It was easy!
All Instructions for the RVM1435WH001
16-30 of 362