Models > RVM1435WD001 > Instructions

RVM1435WD001 Hotpoint Microwave - Instructions

All installation instructions for RVM1435WD001 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the microwave repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the RVM1435WD001
16-30 of 395
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bulb had broken off in base that was still screwed into socket

  • Customer: william from san antonio TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 45 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
At first I tried to use pliers to unscrew the base,very uncomfortable working position,upside down and backwards(the microwave is installed over the range top)very limited space for your body and arms to manuver and you really cant see the base,all of this took place after the breaker was turned off ofcourse,finally figured out that you can drop the entire bottom housing of the microwave by unscrewing 6 screws and the light sockets are easily accessable once you lower it,take out 1 retaining screw ,remove the entire socket and unscrewed the broken base and replaced the bulbs,I said bulbs,there is no sense in having to replace another bulb in who knows how long since only one had burned out but they were both the same age

Socket cracks and goes brittle from heat from bulb.

  • Customer: Thomas from Deltona FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 41 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the microwave first, then removed the screws that hold the cover in place. This gives easy access to the socket. Remove the screws that hold the socket in, unplug old socket, replace with new one and you are back in the light again.

Oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: CARTER from OXNARD CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 28 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Over the range microwave. Replaced magnetron. Completely disassemble the case top and bottom.
Remove screws from bottom of HV transformer. Magnetron will not clear without this removal.

Remove nuts with socket from top of Magnetron. Remove thermo unit from old magnetron and attach it to new. Replace and bolt down Mag. Replace and screw in HV transformer. Make sure all wires are reconnected.

Put it back up on the wall. Took about three hours from taking it down from wall and putting it back up.

oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: david from elmira NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 31 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
1. remove microwave from wall
2. remove cover (many screws)
3. remove nuts holding magnetron in place (4)
4. remove magnetron (this is a pain due to the plastic molding used to direct cooling air through the magnetron
5. get new magnetron in place (this was even more fun to find the right angles to tilt to get the magnetron to fit
6. re-tighten the 4 nuts on the magentron
7. put the cover back on
8. put the unit back on the wall.

bonus repair: the display flickered while the magnetron was on (cooking ) prior to the magnetron dying. found a ribbon cable on the control board to the display with an aluminum foil shield that had peeled off (adhesive failure). re-installing the aluminum shield with packaging tape, and the display no longer flickers

Bulb burnt out and stuck to socket holder

  • Customer: Frank from Reno NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
1. Take off bottom panel
2. discon wire from microwave
3. set panel on table
4. unscrew panel cover under metal cover bracket
5. need to do that because screw from cover panel won't let you put in light bulb in round hole in metal cover panel
6. take new socket holder and insert bulb
and screw back on to metal cover bracket after remove bad socket holder and bulb by unscrewing
7. recon wire
8. test before putting back bottom panel
9. screw bottom panel back on.

Oven would not power up

  • Customer: Andras from Lexington MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
There are 4 thermostats (aka TCO = Thermal Cut Out) in the GE JVM1440BH04
The schematic is under the cover in a black envelope to the top left of the unit if you face the door.

Check the fuse first. You can remove the front grate, then the numpad on the right. The fuse is right behind it. It's a 250V 20A Class F fuse.

There are four (4) TCOs or Thermal Cut Out thermostats in this puppy:

1) There is a thermostat behind the button panel to the left, facing down. If blown, it breaks the power coming into the unit and will cause a no power situation.

2) There is another TCO or thermostat near the top lamp, to the left, in a small cavity. That one also breaks power to the unit and will cause a no power situation. It's a 100 C / 0 C thermostat. This was the one that blew on me after I left the stove running (for heating in a black-out) under the microwave.


"Cavity TCO" or "Thermostat" part number 61 on the schematics, part number PS239319


3) There is yet another power-breaking TCO or thermostat in the cavity behind the fan that cools the microwave coils. You have to remove the sheet metal on the right of the microwave to access it. This one also breaks power and will cause a no power situation.

1), 2) and 3) should test out to be 0 Ohms with a resistance meter (Digital Multimeter) if working correctly.

4) There is a thermostat which normally does not let current through it. It is mounted in a vertical position to the back wall behind the front panel on the right. This one is used for the sensor reheat function apparently and will close when the temperature in the microwave reaches approx. 60 C.

4) should have infinite resistance with a resistance meter under normal circumstances.

The handle was broken

  • Customer: Donna from Chapel Hill NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I had to pop off the facing on the microwave on the inside and then on the outside. On the inside, I used a kitchen knife to carefully pop off the facing. I found the screws that were holding the old handle on. I had to pop the back of the microwave door off to gain access to the other screws for the handles. The outer screws had to be put in place first, making sure that the glass did not slip. The facing needed to be popped back on before the inner screws were tightened. I tightened the inner screws and then popped the facing back on. The thing that took me the longest was figuring out how to pop the facing off and lining up the screws in the handles correctly.

Turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok.

  • Customer: Sean from San Jose CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the 2 Torx-15 screws at left of control panel. Work the control panel out by pulling slightly to the left first - it is engaged to the slotted holes to the right.

Remove the door's upper switch by lifting the tab and pulling out the switch carefully. To install the new switch, you may have to remove 2 philips screws holding the plastic assembly where the switches are mounted to the metal frame.

Diagrams on the website are misleading b/c the switch shown up on top of the other 2 switches is the switch w/ the NC (upper) terminal while you'll need the NO (lower) terminal for this repair (symptoms are: turntable won't move, no heat -but light and fan ok). I should have called before ordering the part (had to pay shipping twice)...

Once I got the right part, it works just like before.

Glass turn table made loud noise while turning then stopped turning

  • Customer: Linda from Le Claire IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
This repair could not have been easier! The website was great at helping to identify the problem and the part needed. Users discribing how they did the repair gave me the confidence to do it myself. I got the part the day after I ordered it, installed it and my microwave was a good as new! It was as simple as unscrewing seven screws to remove the bottom of the microwave. Then two more screws to remove the part. Unplug the broken drive, plug in the new one and screw everything back together! Don't forget to unplug your microwave before you begin.

Great website!

Changing the bulb that illuminates the cooktop

  • Customer: LUCY from BALLWIN MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

All electircal functions worked except the heating mechanism

  • Customer: Chad from Firestone CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
A great place to start is to reveiw the posting from "Marla From Arlington TX" posted on 8-3-09. It provides an excellent description of the process that you will need to follow. The only additional thing that I would add is to check the contacts on the switches. In my case I found that all three of the switches had a small build-up of corrosion. I used sandpaper to clean the contacts. Because none of the switches had a "soft" click to them, it was hard to identify the bad one. I basically picked the worse looking one and then cleaned the contacts of the other two. I'm not sure if I actually even had a bad switch or if they all just needed cleaning. Whatever the case, it worked. I would suggest checking the contacts first. You may get away with not having to replace any of the switches. And in my case what makes me think that it may have just simply been dirty contacts is that the heating mechanism would engage every now and then. It wasn't dead 100 percent of the time. It's worth a try anyway.

Noise and no Heat on Microwave oven.

  • Customer: Luis from Plano TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 16 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
First, I waste $65 by calling some "REPAIR" service. They showed at home and charge me that just to tell me
Second, I researched on the web and ordered a part, which was not the issue. I waste abnother $72
Third, I found Part-Select and got the right answer: the Diode was the problem. Ordered the part form Part-Select and it FIxed it !!!

Note: I did not buy a new microwave because this one is mounted on the wall and it will cost me +$800 just the lowest price.

Microwave Fan Turned on When Door Was Opened

  • Customer: Bishop from Coupland TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
To get to the switches you need to remove the metal cover/housing of the microwave, by first removing several screws that hold it in place, and then sliding the cover towards the back of the unit. You'll find the switches in some plastic holders above the door-open button, and it's its easy to see how the mechanism engages/disengages the switches when the door is opened and closed.

If it is not obvious which switch is bad, in our case the bad switch felt "soft" when we pressed the switch button with our fingers. A good switch has a firm "click" when pressed.

The switches are easy to replace - pop out the old switch (no tools required) and pull off the electrical connectors. Then pop in the new switch and reattach the connectors.

No heat in the microwave

  • Customer: Douglas from Mechanicsburg PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
We purchased our Microhood oven about 4 years ago along with the extended warranty package offered thru home depot. Within one year, the problems began. Each year the secondary switch would go bad rendering the microwave useless. If you have 3 small children like we do, you tend to use it a lot. We sure take the microwave for granted.

Each time G.E. would fix the problem at no charge. Ths time - the warranty had expired and GE wanted to charge us $80.00 for service call plus parts and labor. We estimated the cost to run at least $150.00 or more.

To top it all off, GE was going to have a service tech avail for over 2 weeks. This is poor customer service and completely unaccceptable.

Because this was a recurring problem, I figured it was the same part that had being going bad since we purchased the appliance. I decided to order the part "secondary switch" myself and attempt to fix the microwave on my own.

I ordered the part last Tuesday, the part arrived last Friday. Within 10 minutes I had the microwave apart, replaced the part and had the microwave back in working order.

PartSelect saved me over $100.00.

We are very satified with PartsSelect, I would recommend them to anyone

We had a crack in the control panel frame.

  • Customer: Catherine from West Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was simple. It was just a matter of removing the upper vent grill to access the screws for the panel frame. Then I just popped out the old frame and installed the new..and the micowave is as great as it was new. The PartSelect website allowed me to see a visual map of all the parts of my microwave which allowed me to find and choose the right piece for the job. It only took 5 minutes for the repair.
All Instructions for the RVM1435WD001
16-30 of 395