RVM1325WW004 Hotpoint Microwave - Instructions

After reading some of the comments that others wrote, I decided to order the light sockets along with the replacement bulbs. As predicted, the old light bulbs broke when I tried to remove them - the bulb separated from the base which was still screwed in the socket. After removing the screws that held the bottom panel, I was able to remove the socket assemblies with ease. After inspection of the old sockets, I was glad I ordered new sockets - the old sockets were burned in some spots and very brittle. The parts arrived within a day and a half after I ordered them, but when the parts arrived, one of the bulbs was broken (happened during shipping). I called the office phone number and talked to a really pleasant technician who refunded me the price of the broken bulb and placed an order for a replacement. That was the Wednesday evening before Thanksgiving Day. I got the replacement bulb yesterday (Tuesday) morning - still really quick considering the Thanksgiving holiday. All of the parts are installed and are working excellent. I am definately going to keep their WEBsite for future use, and I'll be letting my friends know about them. Thanks PartSelect, you've earned my business.

The microwave had been working fine until one day when the timer counted down but the heating motor (or whatever you call it) would not come on. So the timer would count down but nothing inside would get hot. I did not know what it was for sure but decided to take it apart and look. Once I had the control panal off, I found three small wired switches inside. One of these switches appeared to have shorted out. So I searched online and found Partselect.com. I found a matching switch , ordered it (arrived in couple days), put it in, and VOILA it works! Thanks Partselect.com.

1. turned off electricity -- unplugged the unit 2. removed 3 screws on top of top vent, removed vent screen then I located the little white cylindrical fuse and popped it out with a table knife. Then I popped in the new fuse. Replaced the vent screen and screws -- plugged in the appliance and it is working again.

I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN

I ended up breaking one bulb trying to remove a burnt bulb for replacement. We then tried removing the other bulb and it wouldn't come out either. I googled the problem and found PartSelect and an explaination of the problem. Heat from either the stove or the bulbs had fused the bulbs into the sockets. Comments on the problem explained that you just remove the bottome pannel (we had seven screws), unplug the old sockets, insert the new and new bulbs and reattach the panel. It was quick and no problems to correct. We did discover the microwave was on its own breaker, make sure to disconnect or cutoff power to the microwave before you start.

This was a super easy repair job. I couldn't figure out how the lens that covered the light bulb would have cracked and realized it must have been from my contractor when he replaced my stove. I can't prove it, of course, so I am left doing the repairs. The website was very easy to order from and confirm that I had the correct parts as the model numbers tend to change over time.

First, I removed the screws that hold the handle to the door, and then removed the handle. Then, I used a small flathead screwdriver to pry the door apart. Then I slid out the front glass panel, and exposed the side of the door. The replacement piece was easy to install, it is just held in with two pins and a spring.

Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

This did not fix my problem. I've ordered a new microwave.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

Upon taking the faceplate off (unplugged power source first) I found one of the wires going to the THERMO SW-TCO SENSE TEMP was completely burned away. I cut back the wire and spliced a new section with heat shrink connectors and I replaced the THERMO SW-TCO SENSE TEMP. I plugged the power back in and it works great.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Went to onlin source, found a couple youtube videos then went to the GE site which had a not-too-easy that find trouble shooting guide. It was extremely helpful as it described a fuse as a fix 80% of the time for touch paid failure. I really didn't believe it would b a fuse, but it was the cheapest fix, $8. I got the fuse and was surprised to fine there are two of them on this model. I took a guess and replaced the top one ( neither fuse was black or burned to indicate a failure but the top one was a bit mor greyish). put it all back together and it works fine.

took off upper grille and touch pad and removed the old line fuse and replaced with a new fuse ...turned on it is working fine...sources of help: UTube and GE manuel

I was very happy with the ease of finding the product I needed, the time it took to arrive and the fact that I received the right part. The replacement process was easy and only took about a minute.

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.