RT18BKXKQ01 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Followed video and had one problen, the metal pipe would not release as shown,so I used a hacksaw between the plastic and metal pipe, removing the metal pipe from inside as the video shows. Good instructions.

Simple. 1st, removed broken part to understand part (water fill tube to freezer, plastic part at top of fill tube cracked). 2nd go on your web site and look at prints to find part number, Study video to understand video. 3rd. Called customer service and lady was very nice and efficient. Placed order and received. Study video again and installed. My 9 year old grandson was visiting from out of town and assisted in installation. Just over 30 minutes to install

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

TOOK IT OUT OF THE BOX, AND LAID IT IN THE GROVE THAT IT GOES IN.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

When you plug in the fridge it will begin to make noise, but never get cool. When you open the door it will stop and will not turn back on.

This part is listed as one that can fix the problem, but the installation video does not match my fridge.

I've replaced the capacitor (PS11757023), the compressor start relay (PS11740412), and condenser fan (PS1957416) and none of them have fixed the problem.

I really don't want to throw this fridge out. Please help! justin@jplt.com

Popped into place, less than 10 seconds Done.

Watched the installation video and was able to make repair easily

Shelf was a perfect fit, slid into refrigerator very easily.

Unplug refrigerator.
Pry switch out with putty knife
Remove two wires from switch
Attach wires to new switch
Push new switch into slot

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.