RST310UW (P1130738N W) Amana Range - Instructions

After shutting off the gas and removing the oven door, which simply slid off of the hinges, I removed the oven plate. The ignitor was attached to the manifold. I removed that and noted the wires were attached back behind a hole in the back of the oven. I thought I would have to access them from the back but when I pulled on them I was able to reach them from the front. I was surprised to find plastic lugs covering the wire ends, rather than ceramic. I attached the new ignitor wires and reused the plastic lugs, as no ceramic ones came with the new ignitor. I carefully slid the new ignitor back into the cage/shield attached to the manifold and replaced the manifold. I then turned the gas back on and tested the ignitor (which worked perfectly) before replacing the oven plate. The repair took less than 30 minutes, but my wife and I thoroughly cleaned the door and interior while we had it apart. The hardest part was getting the door back on the hinges, but this too was accomplished after several attempts. The oven heats up beautifully now.

The only real issue was locating the proper adhesive to ensure that the new pads would not fall out. The small insert paper slip in the package noted that a RTV adhesive should be used. After much searching at the home improvement super store, I learned it would be found at an auto supply store. It is black, and is for high temp use. It is available in a small tube for around $2.00. The RTV is usually used to make gaskets for heat/oil exposure in auto repair. I did have trouble removing a broken stub from a pad that had broken off in the hole. I used an awl to get what I could and push the rest into the hole deeper, then insert a new pad with along with the adhesive.

Unplugged the stove, removed all 4 burner discs from the stove top (2 screws each) and disconnecting electrode wires as I pulled them out, removed the stove top, unscrewed the old module, removed the 6 wires, connected wires to the new module, screwed it into place, reinstalled the top while poking the electrode wires through the top one by one, put the stove top in place, connected the wires to the burner discs. Done, and it works! It took longer to find and order the part than it did to change it out.

I could not figure out how to get to the igniter until I went to the "Part Select" web site and found a post that was exactly like the problem that I had. IE: Remove two screws holding each burner, Lift off top, remove old igniter being "Carefull" not to mix up the wires when putting them on the new one, installed new igniter in bracket and mounted in position, Reinstalled top and PRESTO - it worked. First post was VERY HELPFUL. Thank you

easy to put in

After the appliance store told me that the repair would cost about $500 to fix an oven that wouldn't light we didn't have the money to repair it or buy a new one so we went without an oven (only the oven) for almost 1 year. The igniter would glow but the oven would not light. my son found your site online and passed it on to me. It was so simple it's almost funny. I opened the oven door and removed the burner cover. Then reached in and removed the three screws that held the igniter in place. Turned off the gas, disconedted it so I could pull the stove out to get behind it. Found the wires to the igniter and undid the 2 wire nuts. Removed the igniter cover from the old one and slid it onto the new one. Be very careful because the igniter is very delicate and be sure to not toucjh the heating eliment. Slid the new part into place, reinstalled the screws, connected the new wires with the old wire nuts, reconnected the gas and turned on the oven. BAM it worked like a charm.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

First we removed the oven doors. Then removed the shelf that separates the oven from the broiler, giving us more room to work. At first we thought we needed to loosen the screws around the bracket holding the ignitor, but we realized that the burner needed to be removed. Lifting the burner up from the front gave us the room to pull it gently from the back of the oven wall, giving more room to pull the wires connected to the ignitor from the back of the oven wall out and then disconnecting them. Then carefully pulling the ignitor out of the bracket.

Putting the new ignitor in was easy. Carefully sliding it into the bracket, not touching the ceramic piece, connected the electric wires, pushed the wires back into the hole in the back of the oven. Then placing the burner back into place.

We then turned on the gas and the electricity and the ignitor glowed and the burner lit. PERFECT! In the past we've had a repair man come in and this time we saved $100. Even more perfect.

I just put the grate pads in the bottom of the grate. The repair was a snap.

Original bumper pads NOT glued into the burner grates. Hence they began to disappear during routine use and cleaning. Very simple repair with a little glue this time around. But fairly expensive for a very small part set

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

was so each, we removed the door and the racks. and the bottom drawer out. All we had to do was remove the ignitor that was held in wtih screws we could read the wires from the bottom of the oven and then put the new one in and attached the wires from the bottom. We had read reviews of others that did the same repair and were confident that we could do it because they described it and said it was so easy. Thanks everyone.

i disconnected the power supply, took all shelves out of oven, removed screw that holds the bunner to oven, removed bunner along with igniter. cut wires to igniter wired new igniter , tested before
installing bunner,( ok) installed bunner and screw
fired up and all is well.

Been looking for grate pads for 10 years and finally found you site and part # WPL 814323.
Wasn't sure that they would fit but couldn't even find new grates so decide to try them --Fit perfect.
Kitchen aide stove top gas with round grates. Used the drill to clean out the holes with broken pads still embedded.With clean holes the new pads just screwed in like the originals. Thank you very much

Just set in the new grate and start cooking