RGB745WEH7WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

Removed two screws to remove old bottom. Insert new oven bottom and re-attach screws.

I replaced the oven igniter, discovered the floor of the oven had rusted through, so I replaced that as well. The burner on top of the stove would not light as it was designed, and because the 12 screws that hold the range top and burners in place were rusted in place I ended up buying a new range because removing the screws on the burners proved impossible, even when I tried to drill them out with a lefthanded screw removal tool. I should have just kept lighting the burner that would not light, with a match. That was a repair too far, that forced me to buy a new GE Range and throw this one in the trash. The igniter, oven floor replacement was easy. The burner igniter after 18 years proved impossible. .I installed the 18 yr. old burner grates on the new range, but the drip pans would not fit the new stove. New GE Range instructions were near useless. Do Not trust them, especially the Orifice change details NG to LPG.

the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part

Unplugged the electrical.Removed the door, removed the oven racks and removed the bottom pan. Removed the wire nuts from the two wires. Removed the burner tube. Removed the Igniter. Installed in reverse order. It was very easy however it was the third igniter that I had to replace in this range so I was used to it.

On a 18 year old electric GE range: amazing not the exact handle but it does fit perfectly and looks great. If your somewhat handy this is very easy and can be completed in less than a half hour. Save the screws from the old handle, they can be used again.

This oven is from 1993 and a lot less complicated than today's models probably are. The first things to do are to remove the oven door and broiler pan. On this model, the oven door simply lifts off the hinges. Once these are gone, you want to remove the oven floor. To remove, locate the two screws at the back of the floor. After removing, lift the floor up and towards the back to pull the floor tongue out of the groove in the front. This will expose the gas jet and ignitor assembly. At the front of the jet pipe is a screw that holds the pipe to the front center of the frame - it is underneath so you may have to bend over to see it, it can be felt easily as well. Remove this screw, this will allow the pipe to be moved a little later. In front of the assembly is a vertical metal plate with a screw at the right of the mounting the plate into the broiler floor. Remove the screw and slide the plate to the left to pull out another tongue/groove set-up. Now you should see the wires completely and the connection to the air-flow adjuster. There is a small screw in the front of this brass fitting, it does not need to be touched. Turn the burner pipe clockwise while lifting and this should pop the assembly up. The ignitor is mounted to the burner pipe by 2 screws that are found on the bottom of the mount. Remove the 2 screws, this will allow the ignitor to hang free. Be sure to pay attention to what wire attaches to what wire, I marked the left wire so that I knew which to reconnect to after the change over. Remove the caps on the wires if this unit has been removed before, if not then mark the wires on both the replacement unit and the original wires. My ignitor has been replaced before, so I used my wire cutter to clean-up the ends of the old connection before reconnecting the new replacement. At this point, you should be able to fire-up the oven, it might take a moment for the new one to warm up, so give about 30-40 seconds. If the oven fires up, it's then working to put everything into place in reverse order. I like to line up the parts and pieces as I remove so I can just put back in reverse.

Remove the existing burner and install the replacement.

Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

First, hand lifted and removed front and rear burner grates. Second, hand lifted and removed front and rear burner caps. Third, hand lifted and removed the bad Right Double Porcelain Pan (Spill Pan) from the range surface. Then clean and remove dirt, grease, stain on the range surface and around the burners area as needed. Lastly, replaced the good Right Double Porcelain Pan (Spill Pan), burners caps and burner grates in the reverse order as you removed them. Done in less than 5 minutes.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

disassembled bottom trim on oven door.cleaned area of excess rust and installed trim piece.

1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?