RES7745PQ0 Roper Dryer - Instructions

First I watched a instruction video online.. It made the job easy. I have done it before but I did not remember exactly how to proceed, After watching the video i knew exactly what screws needed to be removed and what tool I needed for each step. Anybody sees the video before tackling this job, they can't go wrong.

Pulled off back panel, replaced thermostat, replaced heating element.

I followed the instructions almost exactly as the video and it was very simple. A few of the parts were a little difficult to get off but with a little tugging they popped off. After the initial installation I ran the dryer and the items didn't dry, so I ran it again and got the same result. Fortunately, not know I had already attempted to dry twice, my wife put a load in and it worked perfectly and has been since. Not sure the reason but it took 3 attempts before the heating element worked and I have a 12.5 year old drying that works good as new!

followed video on line

I did as your online movie said to do it. It is a big help and you can see that the belt, rollers and idler pulley is not a difficult job and you save yourself at least $100. Toughest part of job is putting back the nylon triangle things that hold the rollers on without breaking them.That is why I used the needlenose pliers. The triangle things that hold on the rollers have little tabs on them and I just gently pulled them outward and the triangles went right on.That repair kit from Whirlpool(builder of my Kenmore dryer)was a real bargain and everything fit perfectly. Bottom line is don't be afraid to try this repair. You will most likely succede. Go out to diner with the money you saved. Good luck, Mike

I followed the instructions according to your repair video and they worked perfectly. Thank you for the video, very clear and helpful giving me the self confidence to do the job myself! Part delivery was three days and the money I saved by not calling a repair man is greatly appreciated. I am already recommending part select to others at work!

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

The video help to give confidence to change out the components since they were so inexpensive and the alternative was to go out and buy a new dryer.. It was easy to remove the back panel off dryer (after unplugging from the wall of course). The two components were unscrewed, cables unattached using pliers and replaced. The faulty element was definitely an open thermal fuse. For some reason there was a 5 Ohm resistance when the cables were connected.. Which confused me at first as I thought the fuse was not blown. I guess there was some conductance across the cabinet body. Anyway after replacing the fuse and thermostat the dryer was back to fully operational. I think it now actually drys better than before but that may just be wishful thinking.

I followed the instructions from the video on line. 1) Took off the back of dryer. 2) Removed electric connections to element. 3) Removed two screws to remove element. 4) Removed thermostat form element. 5) Reversed above steps to replace new element.

Pulled the back panel. Removed the connectors from the thermal fuse and checked the to see if it was good with ohm meter. Then checked the thermostat next the fuse on the left side. Then did the same thing with the thermostats at the top and bottom of the heater box on the right side if you are looking from the back of the dryer. Then check the heater element for any opens, this is where the problem was. ordered the part from this site and it took to remove the one screw at the top of the heater box and the whole heater box comes out. then removed the 2 screws on the sides and pulled the old one out and put the new one in the same way. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes to do and the dryer was back up and running. I also checked the you tube video series.

watched the online video on the Partselect site which was very informative and straight forward. replaced the belt, tensioner, and two drum rollers (all included in the maintenance kit, (along with small hardware parts)). put it all back together, and VIOLA!!!!!! super quiet like the day we bought it!!! Thanks!!!

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

My husband followed your video

First off, I was somewhat misled by the website and ordered the wrong parts. I entered my model number and ordered the maintainance kit. The info said it was good for Whirlpool, Maytag and others. I also watched the video which is apparently the Whirlpool. So, the wrong parts arrived. The PartSelect peeple were very helpful in getting me the right parts and getting them delivered promptly. I then found the proper video, watched that and did the repair. Be aware that all models have subtle differences. Mine had two long screws in the bottom of the door frame not shown in the video. I also had a little trouble with the pulley spring. I removed the assembly and then got it all back together ok. Then I lost one of the door hinge screws. It evaporated. The replacement part was like $4 so I used one from the local HD and all is well.

I reviewed the on-line video (which was very good by the way) and read the instructions that came with the thermal cut-off kit. Replacement of the upper thermostat was a piece of cake, very straight-forward; just remove the old & replace with the new. The instructions for replacing the lower thermostat were a little confusing because my dryer did not have the orange wire coming from the wiring harness, but after looking carefully at the old thermostat and how it was connected, I finally figured out how the jumper wire was to be connected and successfully installed the lower unit. Bottom line...the dryer works like new. Much cheaper than calling the repairman! Thanks PartSelect!